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On this vehicle, the front lower ball joints were loose and clunking. The car was also lowered and needed rear adjustable control arms. The tie rods were also swapped since it's one alignment to be done anyways.
The front lower control arm is held at the suspension fork, lower ball joint at the knuckle and the front bushing at the subframe.
At the back of the wheel well, there's a large bushing bracket that bolts to the frame:
This (rusty) cross brace must be removed to get those bushing brackets out:
Old vs new control arms:
Opted for new stabilizer links too:
Be careful not to pull out the CV boot like I did. Luckily I got a new clamp on:
Steering rack bellows, Inner & outer Tie rods swapped. No tool is needed to access the inners, an adjustable wrench took mine off just fine:
On to the rear. 4 months of driving lowered with no alignment eats away tires real quick:
At the back, I swapped the front lower link for an adjustable one, and replaced the cam bolt for the rear control arm (With the spring):
These bolts were rusted to the bushings. I had to cut them. after half way, they broke free:
This arm with the spring on it is not available other than Nissan. I really didn't want to cut the bushings since they don't sell that separately.
I opted to push the old bushing out and replaced it with a whiteline poly bushing.
I marked the frame hole to be widened.
And used this drill bit to open it up. This will allow for more camber/toe adjustment.
Lining up the new adjustable arms next to the OEM one:
New cam bolt and control arms installed. The alignment shop will turn the bolt to adjust the camber and toe.
These are all the old parts that came off. One big job!
Thanks for sharing. G's and Z's really need that suspension swapped quick at 120k ish miles. Crazy how many Z's I see out there with completely blown front lower control arms. Let's the front end steer itself !
Good video but you should specify for everyone who's NOT living in canada that you should definitely use Loctite 242 or 243 on the jam nuts for the adjustable turnbuckle.
Also, the front camber arm with the turnbuckle should not also have a camber bolt unless you are REALLY REALLY low, like -2.5 inches. It should have an eccentric lockoff so there is no more adjustment at that point since the adjustment would be made at the turnbuckle.