Hello i recently bought a G35 2007, its been driving fine and all but today when i was driving i was noticing when leaving from a full stop the car goes to around 1.5k RPM then loses all RPM and the car full stops then resumes to drive now other then that 2 times when ive tried turning when in a parking lot my AUTOMATIC G35 completely stalls out and i have to restart the car this isnt that convenient becasue its a automatic once i notice i have to put it in part and start it up what if this happens at a red light n i cause a car to hit me or worse HAPPENS MID DRIVE!!!

PLEASE im new to the VQ G35/350Z scene and need help fixing this, now also i need a new O2 sensor ive ordered the part because no part store near me has them its been delayed due to covid19 for shipping twice now would a bad o2 sensor really cause the car to completely act like this? its completely stock

 

Is the check engine light on? Scan the code and see what it says. Sounds like a crank of cam sensor goin bad.

 

all 3 codes listed are the only one (I know the reader says 6 but it's just repeating the 3 codes)

 

P1148 - Closed loop function, basically saying it's in open loop because something is wrong.

P0031 - B1S1 O2 sensor, this is the primary air/fuel sensor. This code is saying the built-in heater is open/shorted, usually it's the sensor itself but occasionally it's the wiring or harness.

P0130 - B1S1 O2 sensor, this code is for the main part of the sensor, the part actually reading A/F ratio. It should fluctuate according to how much unburned fuel is in the exhaust but when they fail or get clogged up they just send a static reading. This code is the ECM saying it's stuck and sending a constant voltage back.

Open loop - When you first start the engine and the O2 sensors aren't up to temp they don't read correctly so the computer has a preset fuel table and doesn't use any correction from the O2 sensors.

Closed loop - After 30 seconds or so the sensors are all up to temp and will accurately measure air/fuel and the computer uses the sensors to trim fuel as needed. More power, more efficient, more betterer.

All 3 codes are related, if the O2 sensor doesn't work the ECM stays open loop. Sounds like you either have a bad sensor or melted some wires/harness. I would inspect it for wiring issues first and if everything looks good replace the sensor.

Only use name-brand sensors from a reputable company, Denso, Hitachi, Bosch, etc. Bank 1 Sensor 1 (upstream) O2 sensor.