Hey Folks,

So last year i discovered i had a bad water pump. I discovered this because the car got a little hot when i went to work on the weekend on day like 8 months ago.

I check underneath and i appear to have a single slow drip leak coming from the weephole. Me being all scared about destroying my car, I fill up on antifreeze, get the car back home.

I never drove the car again except to warm it up maybe every 3 days or so, it sat for about 3 months and then i had it towed over to a shop to do the water pump.

The guys who did the water pump finished and took 3 weeks to do it. When i got the car back my A/C blew HOT. I complained and had to yell at them to get it fixed.

I drove the car and it felt great for about 3 weeks. The other day i went to pickup my daughter from school and 1 block from home the car went into limp mode.

I coasted home. Then i started looking up codes and started trying to figure out what the problem was - P1757 appears twice on my reader with nothing else.

Even after a reset it still pops up. I checked if i had fluid and the dipstick was DRY... REALLY DRY. I looked at the photos of my car disassembled that the mechanic sent me and realized he must have not filled the car back up with ATF fluid after he removed the stock ATF cooler on the backside of the radiator. I went to Autozone and following service manual specs i added more ATF into the car, the car now shifts back and forth sorta.... it picks and chooses if it wants to go into limp mode 50/50 - i love driving in manual/tiptronic so this is no good for me.

Anyways after reading all the threads, does anyone have a recommended place they have or would buy a solenoid kit for their transmission?
I see some folks saying they replaced theirs and the car is great, some people never come back and say anything.... most do not post links to what they bought. Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

I am looking to buy today if i can get a recommendation....

 

Check out this thread, it's usually a broken wire.

https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...p1759-fix.html

 

Thank you - I have read similar threads and i watched that video that's on youtube.

I already bought solder and a soldering gun in the event that it's only a cracked or snapped wire. In the event it is not, i am having a hard time deciding which kit to buy.

I am having both options ready to repair because i am going on vacation on the 28th and was planning on having a fix one way or another

Any solenoid kit you can or would recommend?

Thank you for the thread reference. i have it saved so i can review it once i drop the valve body and begin inspecting.

 

If you actually need to replace the unit I would put a Sonnax rebuilt on in it. Call or check their website for the part number, then order it through rockauto.com by doing a part number search.

https://www.sonnax.com/units/96-re5r05a

 

hey there,

So, i have a small issue. I started removing the bolts to the valve body and i appear to have mixed them or removed a few too many.

Before going further, is there a way for me to find a detailed photo of a valve body before its been removed so i can see screw placements? Would that maybe be in the service manual? I need help identifying the guide bolt as well.

 

Also,

I opened up the TCM and there were no cracked pins! So, i replaced the solenoids except for the TCC cause i was not sure if the valve body i have used high ohm design or not. Since it was not throwing a code i figured id leave it alone.

So, all 6 of the solenoids have been replaced except for the one mentioned above.

Now, i just need to put the valvebody back up but i am having trouble finding clear photos of bolt placement.

I found one photo that shows "long" "short" circled around but there are 2 kinds of short bolts and 1 long kind if i am not mistaken. So, that's my only issue at this point.

 

Sorry for the late reply, there are bolt lengths in the FSM, as well as the instructions for the TransGo shift kit.

Here's a writeup one user did on the transgo shift kit, not sure if it had bolt lengths.

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...y-upgrade.html

Here is the bolt length snippet from the FSM, section TM - Transmission page 242.

 

i frickin love you dude. i am going to print this and give it a go later on tonight.

Thank you so much for your help. you are the goat bro.

 

Alright, so using the information you helped find - i was able to put everything back inside the car successfully last night. THANK YOU!

However, I was excited and i just expected it to turn on and go. it did not.

So, after putting the valve body back in, connecting all wires and making sure any wires were placed in guides to hold them so they would not get pinched after i put the pan back on and some tranny oil in

I went to go start the car and it would not crank. I could hear a funny noise coming from my throttle bodies so i turned off the car.

When i tried to push the button to turn the car over, it just blinked in the middle console and didn't turn over.

I plugged in my code reader and i had a U1000 and the same P1757 code again.

This is all before actually being able to turn the car on because it would not crank when i tried too.

maybe 10 mins later my stepdad sat in the car and tried to crank it and it started to half crank and then stopped. each time i tried after that it would not crank it would just blink.

I could not hear the starter engage or try to move at all. The starter in the car is new BTW - i replaced it maybe a year ago.

Any ideas? I don't think i pinched any cables but isn't that what the u1000 code is? I am gonna go back today and drop the oil pan again to check for pinched wires but what if there's no pinched wires?

Could it be that my battery is too dead maybe? I figured if it was dead id get at least a click or something.

 

Definitely throw a charger on the battery, the transmission sends park/neutral information back to the ECM to allow the engine to start so it COULD be preventing starting.

It wouldn't hurt to drop the pan again for a good visual inspection since you are now throwing the U1000.

Just to verify, you had the battery disconnected before removing the valve body yes?

Since it did do a momentary crank I'm betting it's just a dead battery.

 

No, I did not remove the battery terminals before working on the car.

I am now thinking that could have been a big mistake. Although, the car turning on all other electrical systems seem to be fine.

I will charge up the battery. I am prepared to drop the pan again today and look, It was late yesterday and i had just added oil back in assuming it would start.

Should i have had the battery disconnected before doing anything?

 

Would it be smart to use canned air or something to blow the tranny oil out of the CAN harness? can oil in between the connectors cause a short? i can't imagine it would based on the design

 

Well I'm thinking that since the computer was ON (battery still connected) when you disconnected the TCM that's probably when it logged the code, I'm betting if you clear the code it will stay gone now that the TCM is plugged back in.

For the future you ALWAYS want to disconnect the battery any time you unplug an electrical harness, ANY harness.

 

Charging uo my battery now to see if its maybe low voltage.

I cleared the codes and the car still would not turn over.

I am going to make a video if it still does not turn over after charging the battery some more.

If i drain the trans oil oan and drop it again. Should the can harness run straight up? Im having a hwrd time understanding which way it should be to avoid being pinched if thats causing the issue.

Here is a video if whats happening..

 

Time to drop that pan again and see what got missed. Check out that other thread I linked in the previous post where the guy was installing the transgo kit, he took a lot of pics and you can see the routing for all the cables.

Make sure to disconnect the battery.