No start, occasionally doesn't ignition on... U1000 Diagnostics
BCM has internal issues like mine did. Mine crapped out at pin 95 as mentioned HERE post #7. What i did was apply separate 12v power source. If you have a Power Probe, then juice that wire and press the Start button. It should power on the IGN system and make sure all fuses in driver side kick panel are good.
BCM has internal issues like mine did. Mine crapped out at pin 95 as mentioned HERE post #7. What i did was apply separate 12v power source. If you have a Power Probe, then juice that wire and press the Start button. It should power on the IGN system and make sure all fuses in driver side kick panel are good.
I tested another IPDM, and I'll double check but I'm pretty sure the fusible links are good as well.
Interesting development... I checked the steering lock signal from the BCM, and it goes 12v for probably 30 seconds upon pressing the start button, then goes off. But the steering lock does nothing at all. I checked signals at the steering lock, and grounds and powers, as well as comms wires are all showing power and ground, as expected. The 12v signal coming from the IPDM (which I believe is supposed to unlock/lock it) does absolutely nothing when I apply 12v. I'm assuming that the IPDM won't apply power to it because the BCM isn't telling it to do so, due to the key mismatch.
I know the steering lock module will brick these cars, so I'm kinda thinking that may be a problem. I know it's intermittently acted weird for a long time now, so maybe? I already dropped the steering column and removed the module, and the casing is covered in corrosion but internally so far it looks clean. I only removed the connector side of it with shear screws, not the larger part that houses the motor.
IPDM and BCM both also show the correct positions for the steering lock, being that it was locked and not being activated by either module.
I know the steering lock module will brick these cars, so I'm kinda thinking that may be a problem. I know it's intermittently acted weird for a long time now, so maybe? I already dropped the steering column and removed the module, and the casing is covered in corrosion but internally so far it looks clean. I only removed the connector side of it with shear screws, not the larger part that houses the motor.
IPDM and BCM both also show the correct positions for the steering lock, being that it was locked and not being activated by either module.
Steering lock won't work until BCM and ECM are programmed. Locksmiths have steering lock bypass box to program keys but you already have keys programmed you said, no?
Steering lock might be bad if your steering doesn't unlock when ignition is ON i would assume (never had one fail one me yet).
What happens if you insert key fob into the key slot and try to communicate to the BCM(s) using Consult, if you have?
Steering lock might be bad if your steering doesn't unlock when ignition is ON i would assume (never had one fail one me yet).
What happens if you insert key fob into the key slot and try to communicate to the BCM(s) using Consult, if you have?
Steering lock won't work until BCM and ECM are programmed. Locksmiths have steering lock bypass box to program keys but you already have keys programmed you said, no?
Steering lock might be bad if your steering doesn't unlock when ignition is ON i would assume (never had one fail one me yet).
What happens if you insert key fob into the key slot and try to communicate to the BCM(s) using Consult, if you have?
Steering lock might be bad if your steering doesn't unlock when ignition is ON i would assume (never had one fail one me yet).
What happens if you insert key fob into the key slot and try to communicate to the BCM(s) using Consult, if you have?
I can’t communicate with the ECM, only the BCM, IPDM, SRS, and a couple other modules that communicate without the ignition on.
This key is not programmed, no. I don’t think any of these BCMs are programmed to this key at this point. And I can’t connect to the car to program the BCM since the ignition won’t turn on.
What you just wrote is the recipe for key fob programming procedure. If the car beeps when you insert the key fob inside the key fob slot, then you need to program the key fob.
Plug in a battery charger and try. I was able to program keys using xTool D7, it was same steps as Consult 3+ but that's the beginning of this mess; Key fobs first, then program ECM to BCM. It's how i did it in my car after swapping ECMs and BCMs. Once you go to Programing mode (make sure to turn on Hazards so BCM don't go to sleep mode), then after you input the correct pin code, the next step will unlock the steering column and ask you to press the Start button to confirm operation and then it's downhill..
You can get VXDiag VCX SE for Nissan for like $220, a basic Windows11 laptop and then they provide you with Consult 3+ v226.50 which works best on these old Gs..
Like this guy is doing it in this video, skip to 5:00:
Plug in a battery charger and try. I was able to program keys using xTool D7, it was same steps as Consult 3+ but that's the beginning of this mess; Key fobs first, then program ECM to BCM. It's how i did it in my car after swapping ECMs and BCMs. Once you go to Programing mode (make sure to turn on Hazards so BCM don't go to sleep mode), then after you input the correct pin code, the next step will unlock the steering column and ask you to press the Start button to confirm operation and then it's downhill..
You can get VXDiag VCX SE for Nissan for like $220, a basic Windows11 laptop and then they provide you with Consult 3+ v226.50 which works best on these old Gs..
Like this guy is doing it in this video, skip to 5:00:
Last edited by MaLPoPieS; May 22, 2025 at 09:49 PM.
I'll try it again, but I've tried this many, many, many times at this point and it fails to program every single time. It's every time after I put in the immobilizer pin, and it fails to initiate. Even back when the ignition would turn on, it still gave me the same errors. Actually, a couple times it got as far as telling me to start the car, which it wouldn't crank, therefore it wouldn't proceed with that step.
With the charger on, I've tried to program the key, ECM, and BCM, same problem every time. I tried doing it while putting power to the accessory/ignition wire, same results.
With the charger on, I've tried to program the key, ECM, and BCM, same problem every time. I tried doing it while putting power to the accessory/ignition wire, same results.
Correct. I know the pin being wrong is a possibility, but I’m just using the pin my scan tools give me.
There are three 5 alphanumeric numbers on the BCM, the 2 next to one another are part numbers, the one below them is the coded pin and there are also OLD and NEW pin codes. When I used xTool D7, it showed me both pin codes and I always used the new one and worked fine. Use that website to decode the pin code yourself and it should work. When I had an Autel MX808 or MS906TS, I could only program when the vci was hardwired using the USB cable, it wouldn't program over BT connection.
There are three 5 alphanumeric numbers on the BCM, the 2 next to one another are part numbers, the one below them is the coded pin and there are also OLD and NEW pin codes. When I used xTool D7, it showed me both pin codes and I always used the new one and worked fine. Use that website to decode the pin code yourself and it should work. When I had an Autel MX808 or MS906TS, I could only program when the vci was hardwired using the USB cable, it wouldn't program over BT connection.
I noticed that with the new and old codes too, I usually go with the old one but I’ll try the new one too.


