Ok... pulled the steering lock, checked it, and put everything back together, and now I just get a yellow key light when I push the start button. Tried programing the key/BCM/etc. on my Otofix scan tool using the PINs from that site, and I just get "operation cancelled" each time. I'm pulling my hair out right now... this combined with a customer's car that I just put a power steering pump into that's bad out of the box.

 

I never used a ottofix device so can't say it works but i can confirm the xTool D7 and Consult 3+ v226.50 works if all modules are 'good'.
You might want to check all plugs and grounds since that unresolved sunroof drain leak. When i fixed mine by rerouting the tubing to AC drain line, i did unplug and check each plug in that car to make sure the pins ain't green. Other than that, it's pretty much that's all i can help you with online..

 

Yeah, I've already checked every connector in the areas of the leak and the ones with any green corrosion have been cleaned. I'm still feeling that the steering lock is a problem, given that it will cause these symptoms, and messing with it brought the only real change I've seen (yellow key light while pressing start button).

 

I’ve been wracking my brain trying to figure out where there may be a problem here, and just wanted to bring this thread up to speed.

Current situation- BCM is not turning on the accessory relay.
When I insert the key into the slot, then press the start button, the only thing that happens is the yellow key light on the cluster turns on. Nothing else at all aside from the door beep.
I replaced the steering lock with a used unit (old one was damaged anyway, so it needed to be replaced), and the BCM is still one that I BELIEVE is good. Might even need another at this point, who knows… anyway, I cannot program anything. This BCM was NOT ever programmed to this car, neither was the steering lock.
Both scan tools do the same thing, which after I input the immobilized PIN, they tell me (from my Autel-based Otofix D1 lite) “operation is incomplete. try again after confirming operation condition”. I believe this is due to the fact that the ignition is not being turned on when it says to do so. But like I said, it won’t turn on.
I can command it on through the scan tool, but that’s it.

I have power and ground at the BCM, ECM, steering lock, and IPDM. Battery is good, and I am on a charger on power supply mode during this (~14v steady). I also went over every fuse in the car, and they are all in tact as well. As mentioned, this car had water leaks, and I took apart each connector in those areas and checked and cleaned them.

I have tested another key slot, replaced the key battery. I also noticed that on the BCM menu it is recognizing when I press the buttons on the key fob, but the car doesn’t do anything. I guess it’s receiving the radio frequency even though it’s not programmed to the car.

Reading over the FSM on the intelligent key/starting system, I noticed that it shows the remote keyless entry receiver provides a key ID input to the BCM. Does anybody know if this has anything to do with starting or turning on the ignition, specifically? I would think that just applies to the lock/unlock/alarm functions, but I’m not certain.

The only other thing that comes to mind is that the intelligent key has been programmed too many times, as I know that’s a possibility on some keys and fobs. I have no idea if that applies to these keys though, I’ve never heard of it on Nissans.

I have NOT tried Consult III yet, for one because I haven’t found a good download for it and secondly, the functions appear identical to my ThinkDiag and Otofix D1 lite functions for NATS programming. I also have successfully programmed multiple BCMs on this particular car with ThinkDiag (Bluetooth dongle powered by iOS app) so I know the platform is capable of doing it.

 

Keep running in circles by guessing. I did what you're doing and eventually ended up getting the NISSAN VXDiag VCX with Consult 3+ v226.50 and it does everything the dealer would of done decades ago. Those chinese scantools are moving away from the old a$$ K-Line system, they don't bother with it anymore as it's really old. I had to tell the xTool engineers to fix the K-Line support on the D7 to make it work and it did a year ago but i'm not sure if they will keep it or not as it's old.
So either you keep on guessing and swapping OR get the dealer software and find out. It's only $200 and the software is provided on their website for free. I can confirm the version 226.50 works as i've used it to swap ECMs and BCMs on my 07 Journey which includes VIN rewrite. When you begin the key programing session, the software tells you that it will erase all programmed keys which is the first step so the key slots become blank and ready to new keys to be programmed. If they're NOT erased, no new key will be programmed.

If Consult 3+ cannot fix your car, then i don't know what else will as it's the OEM software designed specifically for your car.

 

I haven't really been guessing with anything, just going with my observations through testing. And lots of thinking and reviewing the operation of this system. I haven't been able to dedicate the time needed to this car unfortunately, but I'm hoping this weekend I can finally do that. I don't want to waste money on equipment that I don't need unless I have very good reason to believe that it will work. I have next to nothing into this car now, and I'd like to keep it that way until I know nothing too crazy is going on (I was gonna part it out in the first place, but figured I'd save a manual HR car... plus I like a challenge).
Like I said, the problem with the programming part is that I can't turn on the ignition at all. I don't know yet if this is a software or hardware issue.

 

Well, looks like I was right on the steering lock! ThinkDiag also programmed it no problem. Just gonna copy and paste this from my Diag network post.

I went over the wiring around the IPDM just to be certain that there was no damage (mice were an issue at one point in the engine bay, but looks like they stayed away from the wiring) , checked the battery terminals and grounds once more, then decided to try another BCM I had. 3 of these BCMs (one that was a new one from the dealer a few years ago) did the same thing, just the yellow key light when I press the start button. One of them (that I thought had water damage) showed the red theft/key light flashing. When I attempted to program this one (first try with the new steering lock) it programmed no problem at all. Interestingly, I ran the programming process for the steering lock module, not the BCM, but either way it will re-program the intelligent key. The car cranked right up when the scan tool (ThinkDiag) said to start the engine, and I drove it a little bit today without issue.

I went ahead and cleared the codes, and now there are no warning lights and the car starts without a problem! I'm cautiously optimistic that the steering lock (and the BCM that belongs to the car) are what did it. I'm sure cleaning some corrosion from various connectors with Deoxit also helped things.

For the record, the correct, up to date BCM part number for this particular car is 284B1-JK62A. This is the part number that is currently in the car and working. A known good 284B1-JK61A, which is superseded by the JK62A number, and supersedes the original PN to this car, 284B1-JK600, did NOT work. I don't know why. The other 2 BCMs I have are JK62A as well, one is known bad and the other is suspected to be bad. Strange, but I won't think too far into it!

Thanks for your help with this! These water leak cars can be frustrating to diagnose, but it feels good to get to the bottom of it! Like I said, I'm cautiously optimistic at this point because I know the history of this car, it's possessed lol. Few of us bother to fix water damaged cars, and I almost gave up on it but was more curious to know the actual cause of these issues. Glad to save a manual HR!

 

Since the car has had a new transmission, a recessed sunroof, and two body control modules (BCMs), I would first check its full configuration using a reproduction window sticker from https://carfast.express/en/window_sticker . Sometimes the wrong module is installed, but not for the correct configuration, which leads to persistent CAN errors.
This way, you can restore the factory configuration and ensure that all modules actually meet specifications. This will be faster than guessing.

 

The BCM ended up being the problem, along with the steering lock. Both bad water damage. I actually had 3 bad BCMs that I had been messing with, which is extremely frustrating considering they were "tested" used units. Funny enough the one that ended up working was one that I had thought was one of the bad ones I had... oh well, car is still running well for the new owner as far as I know!

 

One thing i did was delete all contact with the new owner of my G.. Last guy i sold a Jaguar too, was asking me how to replace a headlight bulb 4 months later..

 

Aw come on, don't you love getting random texts of stupid questions that Google can answer in a fraction of the time? 😂