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Door lock actuator replacement wiring and "hot wire"
New user here and relatively new 2009 G37X sedan owner (son's car actually). I originally posted in an older thread for G35 and realized it may be more appropriate here so sorry for the initial cross-post. Here is the problem I'm trying to resolve after my son has gone for a year without working door locks and locked his keys in the car 3 times. None of cars four doors will lock or unlock via key fob or door lock switch. The fuel door and trunk will work, but that is it. The driver side actuator doesn't make any noise at all when pressing the lock/unlock button. We've owned the car for over a year now and the locks haven't worked since we bought it. It seems odd that all four door lock actuators would be bad, but maybe they all died one at a time before we purchased it or maybe there is another issue. Anyone have any ideas?
As a potential fix, I'm trying to install the cheap parts express door lock actuators and unlike the videos posted by pythonjosh (https://g35driver.com/forums/members...ythonjosh.html) there are 6 wires going to the plug on the actuator itself. I'm trying to figure out which two wires to tie into and so far it seems that three are needed in order to respond to the lock (black and Pink) and unlock (black and green) and generate a positive or negative current. Then ends up with cross wiring and we all know what happens when we cross the streams... Wire gets hot! I don't want the car burning down or catching on fire, so I'm hoping someone can help me decipher the wiring for the driver side door? Why does the factory actuator need 6 wires going into it? Will a combination of just two wires give me a positive and negative 12V signal to trigger the actuators? My plan was to get the right two wires via diagnosis at the plug and then trace them back in the door and cut and tie into them there to run to the actuator.
I pulled the passenger door off and there were just two wires--pink and green. So I tried just those two on the driver side and it worked. I was thinking I need to engage the black wire for ground, but it wasn't necessary. Problem resolved Hopefully the mounting will go as smoothly now. Thanks.
Front and rear cameras, tire pressure for all four tires can display on screen,folding side view mir
Originally Posted by FraggleG
New user here and relatively new 2009 G37X sedan owner (son's car actually). I originally posted in an older thread for G35 and realized it may be more appropriate here so sorry for the initial cross-post. Here is the problem I'm trying to resolve after my son has gone for a year without working door locks and locked his keys in the car 3 times. None of cars four doors will lock or unlock via key fob or door lock switch. The fuel door and trunk will work, but that is it. The driver side actuator doesn't make any noise at all when pressing the lock/unlock button. We've owned the car for over a year now and the locks haven't worked since we bought it. It seems odd that all four door lock actuators would be bad, but maybe they all died one at a time before we purchased it or maybe there is another issue. Anyone have any ideas?
As a potential fix, I'm trying to install the cheap parts express door lock actuators and unlike the videos posted by pythonjosh (https://g35driver.com/forums/members...ythonjosh.html) there are 6 wires going to the plug on the actuator itself. I'm trying to figure out which two wires to tie into and so far it seems that three are needed in order to respond to the lock (black and Pink) and unlock (black and green) and generate a positive or negative current. Then ends up with cross wiring and we all know what happens when we cross the streams... Wire gets hot! I don't want the car burning down or catching on fire, so I'm hoping someone can help me decipher the wiring for the driver side door? Why does the factory actuator need 6 wires going into it? Will a combination of just two wires give me a positive and negative 12V signal to trigger the actuators? My plan was to get the right two wires via diagnosis at the plug and then trace them back in the door and cut and tie into them there to run to the actuator.
You can install all the cheap parts that you can get your hands on but if you have a defective BCM or corrosion in the wiring harness from possible flood damage you are never going to resolve your problem.
Start with the diagnosis in the FSM
See page DLK-11
12-28-2019 | 01:55 PM
Hopefully the mounting will go as smoothly now. Thanks.
