Does anybody know what I need to do to change from the mechanical fan to electric fan? DIY on how to do it?

 

I didnt think the G had a mech fan... arent mech fans belt driven?

 

Yes. Mech. Is belt driven. My fan is belt driven. I want to change that to elect. Fan.

 

Search is your friend....

I've made about 3-4 different threads about this.

 

Here are some pics


Dual 14 inch Spals..


I am using the Spal - PWM v3 controller.

 

Prior to this setup I was using the Hayden (Advanced Auto Parts) fans and they worked great... Just this setup is far more superior.

I was running 1 16 inch and 1 12 inch fan setup. The 12 on the passenger side and 16 on the driver side.


Problem with the Hayden fans is CFM. They just cannot compete with the speed of the SPAL's.

1 of these 14's is 75% of the performance of both Hayden's.


My radiator is 28 inches wide so with the first setup I covered all 28 inches, with this setup I am covering the same amount of mass but it's much more consistent instead of cooling 12 inches of space and then 16.

You may be asking why 2 fans or why keep the OEM pusher fan?

Simply put, I've yet to figure out how to trigger the fans with the A/C. The SPAL - PWM v3 allows for this function BUT, I cannot find the trigger for the Aux fan. The AUX fan has 4 cables running to it, and all 4 cables are Positive, once the fan turns on 2 wires become negative and 2 stay positive, but they stay positive at all times which would mean your fans stay on at all times (do not want).

So I left the Aux fan to handle the A/C functions and the cooling fans to handle the cooling. At 190 degree's I programmed the Passenger Side fan to kick on, this assists the A/C Aux fan at low speeds and under EXTREME tracking the Secondary fan kicks on at 200. IF and ONLY if (has yet to happen) the temps climb over 203 the Aux fan also kicks on to aide the cooling system @ 50 % speed and if the temps climb to 215 the Aux fan kicks on at 100% speed.

 

sounds quite amazing sir! sooo how hot does a bare bones engine get from normal driving? cuz when i have the hood popped n my fan kicks on i feel heat blowing out like teh fires of hell, and ive heard VQs get hot but it still doesnt seem right

 

Unsure what you mean by bare bones engine.

But thread answers many questions

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ml#post5996695

 

Regardless of radiator size the temperature is supposed to be within that range. Remember your thermostat controls that function.

 

Also, now that I mentioned thermostat.

Placing a lower temperature thermostat will completely alter all your variables. Remember your Ecu is programmed based on the OEM parameters. By opening a thermostat earlier what you'ressentially doing is throwing the load on the cooling system... what I mean by this is the radiator/fans will work a bit more when you're in stop and go traffic.

A OEM system can dissapate 20 degrees of heat from the radiator using 2 oem 14inch fans on OEM radiator 92 degree Miami day in 30 seconds. Regardless of thermostat used
The difference is how the thermostat effects the engine. See once you hit the road the air passing through the radiator will be cooled substantially more than what your ecu wants to be at so it'll advance timing (yes!!) and dump more fuel (no!!!!) it does this in order to reach operational temperature. So unless you can reprogram your ecu to work at a lower temp it'll be counter productive. Also higher pressure radiator caps work only with OEM temperatures. The colder the fluid the more in contracts so its pointless to add something designed for higher heat (higher pressure) when the thermostat is designed for lower temps).

If your car comes equipped with efans it is designed to engage the fans at 200degrees. So you will definitely feel the heat but after 15 seconds the temperature will be about 10 degrees cooler. If you have any doubts you can go to autozone and have them plug in the obd scanner and have them view data and it'll show you live data readings in which you can see the coolant temp.

Very important remember these numbers are all stated with the ac off.

 

Another observation to be noted remember since the water pump is dead next to the thermostat and it is located in the front 2 cylinders these will be the 2coldest cylinders which means they will be spraying a bit less fuel because the other four cylinders will be much warmer. This explains why the slope of the intake manifold was created by Nissan. Many people state its because of the strut bar but all in all this is not the real factor. There are other companies whom proved this with their respective products.

Its all about temperature. The pathfinder mod does look promising given the fact it has a secondary thermostat so the rear cylinders don't become overheated under extreme towing or tracking.

 

i meant 100% OEM, no addtions... yeah bad wording on my part