Hello everyone is been a minute since I posted I have an 06 Infiniti g35 coupe with 160XXX miles on it I was trying to see if I can get some help , so my g35 has been messed up since September last year my capacitor went out and it took me till this year to realize it was that giving me problems , the capacitor caused me a lot of problems, it was burning my coils , my ignition fuse kept blowing, I didn't know what was going on so during that time I changed my coils and spark plugs, it worked good then while I was driving it again thinking everything was fixed the car started misfiring bad and just lost all power and died in the road slowly and it wouldn't turn on I towed it home and I started checking it and it had fried 4 of my new coils and my ignition fuse I put a set of new coils and fuse and it finally started up but with a misfire in cylinder 1 but it wasn't the coil it was the injector it had no pulse so I drove it to the shop as I was driving around 60mph the car died suddenly I towed it to a shop and they told me it had shorted out a couple things in the system including my ecu so I replaced my ecu , ipdm , capacitor and other stuff I got it programmed and it started up but now it has a misfire in cylinder 2 and the coil is not the culprate I feel like my fuel injector has no pulse just like my fuel injector 1 acted last years, I have a total of 3 codes p0302, code for o2 sensor can't remember what bank I think it was bank 1 and the opened loop code it's been 7 months since my g has worked right I'm tired of dealing with this car I just want it to work any ideas?? Hopefully I get a respond thanks you

 

Have you checked the spark plug in cylinder 2? The open loop code would go hand-in-hand with the o2 sensor code (as it needs o2 sensor feedback to close the loop), but I wouldn't worry about that code just yet until you get the misfire problem solved. I get a feeling the fuel injector might be ok as I can't see any relation with the fuel injector and capacitor problem.

I just resolved my own P0306 problem on my '03 G35 sedan a few months back. Turned out to be simply a carbon fouled spark plug, most likely caused by frequent short trips.

 

Thanks for he response and well I just checked to see if injector 2 was getting a pulse and it's not I used noid lite set from oreilly and when I insert the tester into the injector 2 adapter it does not light up at all, I had this problem with the injector one it was doing the same thing before the ecu got fried now with the new ecu it's doing it on injector 2 is really weird !

 

I assume you tried the noid tester on a known good working injector connector just to make sure?

Then I would make sure the injector 2 connector itself is OK, otherwise if you can get to the corresponding pins for injector 2 at the ECU, test it from there. If you get nothing from the ECU, unfortunately it would seem there's nothing else it could be but the ECU.

If you really want to rule out the injector itself, you can also do an OHM test on it (don't know the recommended OHMs though), but it seems that is not the suspect part based on what you just replied with.

 

Yes I tried it on cylinder 1 since it's easier to access and it lights up but once I go back to 2 , nothing I had this same problem with my other ecu but it was on injector one but now it's on 2 it's weird and I'll check the OHMs but I don't really know how

 

To measure the OHMs on the fuel injector, set your multimeter to OHMs mode (select the correct range) and simply touch the red and black leads on the two pins of the injector. You should get a reading somewhere between 3 to 12 OHMs (can look up the exact spec once you get a reading or just measure injector 1's OHMs and use that as a baseline). However, I'm not sure how easy you can get the probes onto the injector as I recall the intake manifold sits over the injectors (at least on my '03 G35 sedan it does). An alternative is to figure out which pins from the ECU go to injector 2 and OHM test it from the connector at the ECU. At the very least, if the OHMs are consistent with the other injectors, you have also ruled out the wiring.

 

Okay I checked the injector its at 13.8 as for the ecu I'll have to strip it out to get in there good but I want to check continuity from the ecu all the way to the injector to see if there's any break

 

Okay I checked the voltage coming out the ecu for injector to and it flickered between .01 - .02 I checked injector 1 and its 13.9 coming out the ecu so yup I think the ecu is ****ed

 

The only other possible problem is the wiring, but what are the chances of the wiring going bad. I believe the ECU only sets the pin to ground to turn on/off the injector, so at the very least you could get your multimeter, set it to VDC (in the 20 or 200v range), clip the black probe to ground, and with key in ON position, measure the voltage coming out of the connectors to the fuel injector 1 and 2 (one of the pins on each connector should have power). If they are both showing 12v, then you can be sure the problem is most likely the ECU, but don't rule out wiring entirely unless you can check the pins right at the ECU. Only then will you be sure it's definitely the ECU.

If you decide to test the wiring, you just need to figure out which pin on the connector that plugs into the ECU ends up at the corresponding pin on the connector at the fuel injector and simply check the OHMs between the two pins. You should get very close to 0 OHMs.