I have an 06 G35 coupe with an RJM Rev4 pedal assembly and Wilwood MC. To make a long story short I am on my 3rd Willwood MC since 2014 and have a Tilton on standby for when my current MC fails. So in hopes of getting some expertise in new clutch setup I wanted to reach out and see if anyone has had better experience with Tilton over Willwood and any advice on my current issues.

My issue currently: Noise coming from MC (popping/clicking) I just installed the latest version of the RJM pedal V4 and it's adjusted perfect to my liking but the engagement is changing from what I expect is due to the MC getting close to end of life. Given I just put a new JW clutch/flywheel and CD009 transmission in since October I reeeeaaaally don't want to screw up my new trans or clutch. I made it through the break-in period with no issues, changed the fluid in the trans after break-in and have all new lines and slave. Last week started to hear a creaking noise from MC and then it started to pop like something is binding when i press and release. This weekend I made a slight adjustment to the release point of the clutch and noise reduced a bit but still noticeable. Currently it's a bit difficult to get the car into gear at start up but after it warms up it's fine.

Any help or suggestions on troubleshooting on this much appreciated. I want to make sure that when this one fails i get it right the first time with the tilton MC. I feel like i got a good bleed on the clutch initially and concerned I may over extend the clevis rod if I make any more adjustments to help it ease into gear. So that said here is my setup:

06 Infinity G35 Coupe 6MT
New CD009 as of October
Steel braided lines from MC to slave
New slave Nissan OEM
RJM v4 AFP Clutch pedal set 10-15% shorter than factory throw with HD clevis
Wilwood MC
Prestone Dot4 Synthetic (I have used ATE Super blue, Motul 5.1 and OEM Dot3 in the past)

 

Check with the manufacturer to make sure you aren't over/under traveling the clevis push rod, they will have a recommended spec.

i don't believe there is an actual travel measurement for the operating cylinder but if you just unbolt it from the transmission and push the clutch pedal it should move to full travel while there is no load on it. Reinstall and compare travel length while actually pushing the clutch release lever. You might find that the travel is not enough and you're barely disengaging the clutch. If you are using the stock flexible clutch line I strongly recommend replacing it with a performance component because it may be slightly bulging under pressure.

 

After the second one, I would've stopped using Wilwood master cylinders. I'm using a Centric and it's been fine. My RJM is the older style that still used the stock pedal tho.

 

Thanks for the advice...I believe the Wilwood chapter is officially closed on this one ...the son bitch failed yesterday on my way home from work. I have my Tilton MC installed and going to start the bleeding process today once I can get a hold of a buddy. I bench bled the Tilton MC and should be good to go...Unfortunately Tilton is closed on weekends so will keep digging on tech specs for push rod setup.

Right now I have the push rod flush with the HD clevis fork base and RJM pedal set to 0% for bleeding. I will post some feedback after I get her daled in.