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The brake light coming on I know and understand (for the reasons you give). I was referring to the VDC and SLIP lights too though.
On a related note, I've always found it interesting how the brakes on one axle can get low enough pad thickness to allow the fluid to drop low enough to trigger the float switch. Even more so when people only change pads on one axle at a time vs both where the fronts could be at max thickness (just changed, for instance) with the rears very low.
On a related note, I've always found it interesting how the brakes on one axle can get low enough pad thickness to allow the fluid to drop low enough to trigger the float switch. Even more so when people only change pads on one axle at a time vs both where the fronts could be at max thickness (just changed, for instance) with the rears very low.
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The VDC/SLIP lights being solid just means the system is currently disabled, Insufficient brake fluid could cause it to behave poorly like potentially having less actuation on some wheels which could cause you to wreck the car because it would turn away the side with less ABS actuation. It makes sense for it to disable itself if ANY component is malfunctioning.
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Ahhh, makes sense in that case. The 'traction control' type functions actually use the ABS system for operation too, do they not ?
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Right away I can tell you that you live in an affluent county like myself. Thus, the labor rates are typically $90-$200 compared to other areas in the country. For example, for an engine swap with the same motor and tranny, out here they charge $8800+. Yet, a different shop here in Maryland would charge me $8800 for a simple 2JZ (provided I give them the mount kit, bracket, tranny, and engine).
With that being said, you should really learn how to research and do things yourself - as I just got done swapping my radiator out; my fan shroud; my thermostat; my water pump, along with swapping all of my hoses with Z1 hoses this weekend. Started Friday and finished Saturday; as the only thing I need to do is refill my fluids. Spent $960 on parts....saved $3167.86.
Seriously! Just crack open a beer, download some good MP3 choices, and get familiar with your VQ. 😎✌🏾
With that being said, you should really learn how to research and do things yourself - as I just got done swapping my radiator out; my fan shroud; my thermostat; my water pump, along with swapping all of my hoses with Z1 hoses this weekend. Started Friday and finished Saturday; as the only thing I need to do is refill my fluids. Spent $960 on parts....saved $3167.86.
Seriously! Just crack open a beer, download some good MP3 choices, and get familiar with your VQ. 😎✌🏾
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I assign a value per hour for me to work on my stuff. It's $20 per hour. If I can't justify spending that extra cash I'll just do it myself.
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Why ? Some people have no desire to work on cars or don't have the tools or don't have a good place to do work. It's their choice, their money, and so on and I respect that. There is a limit to most DIYers too. I mean, I can change most of the fluids on our cars but I can't -- or won't -- do an engine swap or re-build. Yes, I know that's an extreme example but it makes the point.Originally Posted by Stock-Ish
With that being said, you should really learn how to research and do things yourself...
Just because they ask about dealer labor rates doesn't warrant "do the work yourself" either.
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A great example of that is my next-youngest brother. He runs a multi-million dollar service company and spending 3 hours replacing a worn $200 components on vehicles vs. paying $1500 for a shop to do it would literally be a loss of thousands of dollars compared to how much money he would make spending that time on his business.