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SRS & CEL Stuck on

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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 05:43 PM
  #1  
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SRS & CEL Stuck on

I had my car at Addicted Performance in Maryville,TN

They some how managed to get my VDC, CEL, SRS etc all stuck on and argued with me it was because of my ProEFI..which is not true as he ProEFI has been on the car for 7 years and it was never an issue until they touched it.

Anyway, after we argued for idk..3 months. They tried to trick me and bypass the ABS completely.

More arguing later and they managed to get all the dash indicators off besides the SRS and CEL.

Now my CEL ALWAYS worked with ProEFI..if there was an issue the CEL would pop on. ProEFI's website even states it's designed to work with it.

The SRS has never been on except one time and I took it to Harper Infiniti and they performed a recall and that was that.

So any ideas what they could have done to have these indicators still stuck on? Anyway I can get them to function again?

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 09:19 PM
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Scan for codes, that will tell you why the lights are on. You will probably have to read up the manual on how to scan for codes, sometimes it's just a standard OBD2 protocol, sometimes you can put the system in diagnostic mode which will flash the CEL in a pattern like how OBD1 worked, sometimes it's laptop only.

Get a lawyer, take them to small claims court, I hope you documented everything.

SRS and VDC are unrelated to the engine management though, what work EXACTLY did they perform on the vehicle. There's a lot of reasons why those codes can get thrown, I suspect you maybe had suspension/steering work done and the steering angle sensor might be out of calibration due to not making match marks before disassembling stuff. SRS might just be the passenger side airbag TSM, you can put the SRS system into diagnostic mode and it will flash a specific code on the dash, compare to the table in the FSM section SRS - Supplemental Restraint System.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2021 | 11:25 AM
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Well they claimed they could not get them to go back off.

Work they did..they did have the whole passenger side glove box etc torn apart and all over the floorboard. My ProEFI is mounted in the passenger side corner and all the wiring goes up right there over the glove box, So that could be the passenger airbag. I'll have to google that, I had a service manual for when I built the engine but that laptop is smashed now.

They also put a Spec D Dual Clutch in, Did some fuel system work, Upgraded the Vortech SC, Removed the middle pulley, no suspension work..although when I got it up on some stands at home to install some nitrous a couple days ago the front right strut just started dripping fluid all over the ground so I do need some new struts now.

The main reason I brought it to them was for them to tune in the methanol and give the car a tune as I just had it bored, cams etc..they had it a year..was supposed to take a week. They kept saying they couldn't get the throttle body to run off the ProEFI..and that it was impossible to make the CEL work with the ProEFI with the throttle body. IDK..nothing they said made sense. The guy was a grade A bullshitter. Like I've owned the car for 7 or 8 years now, the car has been on ProEFI since day one and I drove it like that for 4 years before actually blowing it up and then building the engine. So honestly all it needed was a tune for the cams, methanol etc. ProEFI even told me should be a basic tune and done.

They said they were trying to get ProEFI to remote in. I called ProEFI and they said they were full of it that they never contacted them..this was like a 3month hold up. So then all of a sudden the next day my car is "done". Addicted got pissed I called ProEFI so they rolled my car outside and said it as ready (4 hour round trip). I got there and the car died pulling out of their lot for a test run and a super busy 4 lane road. Wouldn't start. Finally started, found out they cut my a/c line in 2. Wires dragging under the car, Air filter was in the trunk. ProEFI and glovebox all over the floor, when it ran it would take off on it's own, all the indicators were on then, thats when I found that ABS module disconnected that you pointed out as to what it was. There was a lot more, I recorded it and they said they would fix it all within a month everything they messed up and make it all right. The owner never came outside..2 hours he wouldn't come talk to me.

Months go by..they won't answer me. No updates. So my mom is a journalist, I drove 2 hours up there, dropped her off, went down the road and when she lured him out she text and then I pulled in. He was pist. He said my car wasn't making him any money anymore (all on recording) so he pushed it to the side for over 3 months. I've already paid him $5400 at this point. He said my compaints to BBB and TN and a review on his Google really upset him. LIke..get my car done and none of that would happen..So he agrees to have it done within 2 to 4 weeks max.

2 more months go by and I finally got it back. I am getting a lawyer, I talked to one, he said it is $1500. I have to get estimates and come up with a total. There is also more people that have almost the same excact issues I do that we were thinking about doing like a class action suit. Anyway, They have done a lot a damage to the car. The busted up my front bumper, didn't mount it completely, flaked fender paint where the bumper mounts, there was an engine pulley in the engine bay sitting there, multiple dings and dents, paint chips, window tint is melted, seat belts sun faded, carbon fiber hood is sun faded, trunk has chemical burns, undercarriage is damaged really bad where it must have fell of a jack or lift. Still does not run right, had a random hesitation, also runs at 18.6 A/F almost at all times, glued my shift **** in place, transmission wire loom mounts were just hanging. Cold starts are horrible.

You have no idea the **** I've been thru with these guys.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2021 | 12:53 PM
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I've been messing with it all morning, I decided to just reset the Airbag light and see if it popped back on.

The CEL functions as it should..works..they lied. No surprise. I had codes P0300, P1111, P1136, P1563.

I cleared codes and started the car. The only code that cleared was P0300-Random Misfire. So that at least shows me that it really is functioning like it should.

So as of right now I am diagnosing these other codes.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2021 | 04:07 PM
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So, just an update, airbag light is still off. So that is a plus.

As for the CEL, after removing both VTC solenoids, disassembling and cleaning, one had some RTV in it..good chunk from the fresh engine build. Also tessted both for continuity, and ran power and ground to check function. Installed them back, then did throttle closed, open and relearn procedures and CEL's are gone. Also it seems to run better. The shop went thru 3 Throttle bodies and probably never tried to initialize any of them. So they just got it the best they could and shipped it and just lied saying my CEL would stay on.

Luckily I knew better. Took all day to get it all fixed right.

If you ask me though, there is no way (which I already told the it wasn't tuned properly over and over again) but with these faults..it should of never hit the dyno anyway as these faults effect running and idle.

Also the code for the cruise control went away after doing what I did so must be having to do with the throttle body I suppose.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2021 | 10:48 PM
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I can practically guarantee it never got strapped on the dyno, if they couldn't even control throttle position there's no way they were trying to adjust the tune. I'd watch the AF closely though, pull plugs and see what they're gapped at and run it a little tighter than you think. I don't know what your gap was supposed to be set but I'm guessing .025 -.030 ??
 
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Old Mar 5, 2021 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670
I can practically guarantee it never got strapped on the dyno, if they couldn't even control throttle position there's no way they were trying to adjust the tune. I'd watch the AF closely though, pull plugs and see what they're gapped at and run it a little tighter than you think. I don't know what your gap was supposed to be set but I'm guessing .025 -.030 ??
Well they sent me a pic of it on the dyno once. Also sent me the chart which is 512hp and 480trq but then we upgraded the SC, hooked in the meth (after many arguments cause they stole my meth injector and disabled it and plugged the bung hole and tried to give me the car back like that) etc So I don't even know what it's at now. They wouldn't give me a new dyno chart so I'm sure they never put it back on the dyno.

That's what I'm saying though. I kept arguing with them that they can't tune it properly without it running properly and that it ran like ****. He said well it's tuned. We tuned it. It just runs like it does thats not our issue. He said technically it is "tuned". I said no.."technically" it is not tuned if it doesn't want to start, has random misfires and dies or tried to drive on it's own. I paid you to fix that. Well your definition is different then mine. We tuned it. I was so mad. Specially since A/F runs at 18.6 nearly 100% of the time no matter what rpm or speed I am at. Which is not dangerous right? If I idle to long it will shoot out a cloud or fuel. Got to leave the windows cracked too or the smell will kill you.

Anyway they changed the plugs 3 times so I have no idea what they set the gap to. I plan on changing the coils anyway to something better so I will probably changed the plugs again and gap accordingly..I think it was .30 but it's been so long I will have to double check.
 
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