2005 G35 Auto - P0021 and P0011 - Everything "Usual" thing to expect broken is fine
2005 G35 Auto - P0021 and P0011 - Everything "Usual" thing to expect broken is fine
I decided to give up reddit as I barely got any answers
I have an 05 G35 Coupe with a new engine with 68k Miles on it. When the engine got installed by my shop, it drove great and very very quick, my Catalytic Converter (three months later after the install of the engine) started to rattle, I later found myself hollowing the cats and putting it on so I can have equal pressure so now its just the resonators left on there (O2 Sensors did not have the spacers on them but I believe this is not the problem).
Symptoms Pt 1:
The car started driving a bit slower and now I'm at a point of where the car's acceleration is very sluggish that it is now a concerning problem. The day after the Hollowed Cats install was the day that the codes P0021 and P0011 popped up on my CEL. I noticed the car runs super slow and I didn't really think much of it until I found that the codes pointed towards these Huge Problems that stood out to me, "Oil Gallery Gaskets/Timing Chain". These sounded as if it made sense at the time so I wanted to be sure... I went to Pick-N-Pull and pulled two VVT Solenoids and replaced them onto mine, codes did still return which led me to believe that these are not the problem. I called my Mechanic that worked on my Vehicle and he took it in for replace and inspection. He checked Oil Pressure/Timing Chain/Gallery Gaskets which all is in Good condition, he even dropped the pan and checked the oil which didn't have anything in it. He then mentioned that it is mainly the Solenoids and told me something about it being low voltage, he replaced those with the Original Solenoids that came with my engine and I picked it up
Symptoms Pt 2:
I picked the car up and decided to actually pay attention to what my car is telling me this time. I drove the car for a week very sluggishly and just assumed the O2 sensors were causing HUGE amounts of loss performance until the code popped up in that week which appeared first as "P0021 and P1136", which I think is EXACTLY the same solenoid and same side which confused me as to why there is two codes for the same thing, then later on appeared again but only as "P0021 and P0011". I noticed the new codes pop up because when I started the car in the morning because I was testing the car, the Rpm went from a bit over 1k then dropped down to near 200-300 Rpm then as I opened the hood in a panic, the cars idle went back up a bit over 1k. The car drove exactly the same way as "Symptoms Pt 1" but now with something New. My down shift is Sluggish and now Downshifts slower, a good way to recreate this: When you down shift the car, it goes "VRRM" but now after the solenoids replace, it goes "vrrrRRRM" as if its coasting. The car tries to shifts hard at low rpm, you can hear the rpm hesitate a little mid shift and at certain rpm (2K Rpm). The car idles just above the 500 Rpm mark which is normal, starting this car scares me all the time because when I do start the Car, the engine (Before it had this problem) usually Jumps up there in rpm and you can hear the car rev like someone pushed the gas on it, but now, all it does is coast to 1k rpm and sounds like it is tired. Driving is weird as it feels as if SOME but not all torque is actually returned within the 3k-4.5k rpm and I get to feel my car Pull me harder than it does during this problem. But how I usually replicate that, pressing the gas down hard doesn't get me to go faster, I have to push the gas down like 1/4 and the engine then coasts higher rpm and start to feel it sometimes.
What I know:
So my mechanic confirmed that Timing chain and Gallery Gaskets and Oil Pressure is fine, nothing wrong at all. I did some DEEP research and found one guy (BeyondInfiniti) who is in a similar boat as me has asked someone (Infinitidude) who has dealt with this problem that it could be (In his Own Words on the two sprockets at the top of the engine) "Inner Portion of the sprocket is movable by the Oil Pressure but the outer portion where the actual chain rides stays in place. They will get sludge or build up in them and will not unstick. Even a piece of silicone can stick one of those sprockets. You could try and remove the 2 cam caps on the front timing cover and possibly move them back and forth to try and free them up but make sure not to damage the teeth that the end of them. If you are able to turn the sprocket back and forth and you hear it click then you know it is back where it needs to be. Once they lock in their original position you most definitely will not be able to turn them due to the spring locking it into position." I could not find anything else wrong with the car but this is the other thing that I am finding that could be wrong and couldn't find anything deeper. Does anyone have more information on this (Explain it a bit easier so I could understand from InfinitiDude's words) I'm not familiar with the top part of the engine or how it works in general and how a sprocket can still move even though it is connected to the chain and how it could move back and forth and click and then lock into place and not damage the teeth, Mainly that part. Does anyone have any Other Solutions/Speculations that could be the remedy for this? I am really getting tired of this as this happens out of nowhere. If more information is Needed, please let me know. Please go easy, this is my first post
I have an 05 G35 Coupe with a new engine with 68k Miles on it. When the engine got installed by my shop, it drove great and very very quick, my Catalytic Converter (three months later after the install of the engine) started to rattle, I later found myself hollowing the cats and putting it on so I can have equal pressure so now its just the resonators left on there (O2 Sensors did not have the spacers on them but I believe this is not the problem).
Symptoms Pt 1:
The car started driving a bit slower and now I'm at a point of where the car's acceleration is very sluggish that it is now a concerning problem. The day after the Hollowed Cats install was the day that the codes P0021 and P0011 popped up on my CEL. I noticed the car runs super slow and I didn't really think much of it until I found that the codes pointed towards these Huge Problems that stood out to me, "Oil Gallery Gaskets/Timing Chain". These sounded as if it made sense at the time so I wanted to be sure... I went to Pick-N-Pull and pulled two VVT Solenoids and replaced them onto mine, codes did still return which led me to believe that these are not the problem. I called my Mechanic that worked on my Vehicle and he took it in for replace and inspection. He checked Oil Pressure/Timing Chain/Gallery Gaskets which all is in Good condition, he even dropped the pan and checked the oil which didn't have anything in it. He then mentioned that it is mainly the Solenoids and told me something about it being low voltage, he replaced those with the Original Solenoids that came with my engine and I picked it up
Symptoms Pt 2:
I picked the car up and decided to actually pay attention to what my car is telling me this time. I drove the car for a week very sluggishly and just assumed the O2 sensors were causing HUGE amounts of loss performance until the code popped up in that week which appeared first as "P0021 and P1136", which I think is EXACTLY the same solenoid and same side which confused me as to why there is two codes for the same thing, then later on appeared again but only as "P0021 and P0011". I noticed the new codes pop up because when I started the car in the morning because I was testing the car, the Rpm went from a bit over 1k then dropped down to near 200-300 Rpm then as I opened the hood in a panic, the cars idle went back up a bit over 1k. The car drove exactly the same way as "Symptoms Pt 1" but now with something New. My down shift is Sluggish and now Downshifts slower, a good way to recreate this: When you down shift the car, it goes "VRRM" but now after the solenoids replace, it goes "vrrrRRRM" as if its coasting. The car tries to shifts hard at low rpm, you can hear the rpm hesitate a little mid shift and at certain rpm (2K Rpm). The car idles just above the 500 Rpm mark which is normal, starting this car scares me all the time because when I do start the Car, the engine (Before it had this problem) usually Jumps up there in rpm and you can hear the car rev like someone pushed the gas on it, but now, all it does is coast to 1k rpm and sounds like it is tired. Driving is weird as it feels as if SOME but not all torque is actually returned within the 3k-4.5k rpm and I get to feel my car Pull me harder than it does during this problem. But how I usually replicate that, pressing the gas down hard doesn't get me to go faster, I have to push the gas down like 1/4 and the engine then coasts higher rpm and start to feel it sometimes.
What I know:
So my mechanic confirmed that Timing chain and Gallery Gaskets and Oil Pressure is fine, nothing wrong at all. I did some DEEP research and found one guy (BeyondInfiniti) who is in a similar boat as me has asked someone (Infinitidude) who has dealt with this problem that it could be (In his Own Words on the two sprockets at the top of the engine) "Inner Portion of the sprocket is movable by the Oil Pressure but the outer portion where the actual chain rides stays in place. They will get sludge or build up in them and will not unstick. Even a piece of silicone can stick one of those sprockets. You could try and remove the 2 cam caps on the front timing cover and possibly move them back and forth to try and free them up but make sure not to damage the teeth that the end of them. If you are able to turn the sprocket back and forth and you hear it click then you know it is back where it needs to be. Once they lock in their original position you most definitely will not be able to turn them due to the spring locking it into position." I could not find anything else wrong with the car but this is the other thing that I am finding that could be wrong and couldn't find anything deeper. Does anyone have more information on this (Explain it a bit easier so I could understand from InfinitiDude's words) I'm not familiar with the top part of the engine or how it works in general and how a sprocket can still move even though it is connected to the chain and how it could move back and forth and click and then lock into place and not damage the teeth, Mainly that part. Does anyone have any Other Solutions/Speculations that could be the remedy for this? I am really getting tired of this as this happens out of nowhere. If more information is Needed, please let me know. Please go easy, this is my first post

Firstly I'm not sure how your mechanic verified the galley gaskets are good since it's buried behind the timing chain which requires disassembly of the entire front of the engine.
You can have good oil pressure but still have leaking galley gaskets.
You could also have a broken cam sprocket but I doubt this is the issue since you have the issue on both banks.
Since you're also having idle/drivability issues it's probably something they didn't hook up correctly when doing the swap, sounds like they did a shitty job on the swap.
You might be better off getting a 1 hour diagnostic at Nissan / Infiniti.
You can have good oil pressure but still have leaking galley gaskets.
You could also have a broken cam sprocket but I doubt this is the issue since you have the issue on both banks.
Since you're also having idle/drivability issues it's probably something they didn't hook up correctly when doing the swap, sounds like they did a shitty job on the swap.
You might be better off getting a 1 hour diagnostic at Nissan / Infiniti.
Also P0011, P0021 is saying the ECM is pulsing the actuators at a specific duty cycle but the cam sensor is saying the cams aren't hitting their target.
P1136 is specifically the bank 2 cam solenoid.
P1136 is specifically the bank 2 cam solenoid.
Hello, thank you for the reply, I revised this thread and made a better one with the new things going on and the stuff that i just found out adn the misinformation out the window, that thread would better explain it. Thank you for your input https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...tinuation.html
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kennycaine
G35 Coupe V35 2003 - 07
7
Sep 24, 2018 04:20 PM
03G35SEDAN6MT
G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
6
Mar 4, 2018 09:46 AM
Batfinity
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
2
Oct 22, 2014 02:45 PM
MM_G3520
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
2
Aug 2, 2010 03:00 PM
k_lundquist
V36 General Tech Questions
4
Aug 29, 2008 09:39 PM





