I have a G-Timer calibrated at track. 1/4 Mile slip of 14.81 = My G-timer 14.77. (I did The G-timer at track, adjust parameters & run again until G-timer reads very close to Slip)

The Run to run on G-timer is very consitant after calibration.

Now, I get 1/4 Run everyday starting from a truck stop on a high way.
I could see how my Mods work or not working easily.

I noticed G35 has Ram Air inlet under the hood, the duct that leads to the Grill in front of Air Box. However, the Ram Air is Blocked Completely by Hood.
If you look through the Grill, you wonlt be able to see the opening of the air duct. It's blocked by the lock ring housing that's hanging down from under the front of the hood(Inside).

Now, I poped the Hood & did a 1/4 Run, It worked, The Hood stays on just fine, because the hook is still engaged there after you pop it. But the Front opened up a Gap & the Air actually could get into the Ram Air Duct Now.

My 1/4 Mile came out 14.47 with a 0-60 of 5.95'.
My Best Two other Run with Hood Closed:
14.50 /0-60=5.90; 14.53/0-60 5.93. Clearly, the Ram Air works at Higher Speed, because a slower 0-60 run of 5.95 actually ended with higher 1/4 mile of 14.47. If the 0-60 is 5.90 with hood open, then the 1/4 mile could have been 14.2. Which means ~0.1" faster with Hood open.

I think a Ram Air that open a Duct right to teh Air Box could send the High Speed Air into Air Filter will work better than most of so called Cold Air Intake.

Anybody have a Ram Air duct up front on the G? I see one for the Z, they cut a hole infront of Air Box on the Bumper, but I am afread when it rains, it'll suck in water. I like the OEM Ram Air Duct that has a Water collector & sit high up, the only problem, I don't see How teh OEM one could work, It's blocked. Doesn't make sennse to me.

 

cool, i've thought about that also. i was thinking maybe making some sort of short ram/ cold air intake. which would consist of modifying the stock air box, and/or modifying the "thing that gets airs, thats to the left of the airbox", too come below its original location, right behind the grill. some of the air going to the radiator would be lost, but i've can see how modifying the oem grill, would allow you to gain some airflow w/out losing radiator air.... yup

 

can you imagine your hood snapping backwards and smashing your windshield? it's happened to another guy (CF hood, he forgot to engage the pins). i would not trust that "hook" for the life of it.

 

Pretty dangerous and risky move running the 1/4 with only the safety latch on the hood open. Is a fraction of a second worth potential major damage and possible injury?

 

+1

sounds like it makes sense but not worth the risk to me..

 

CF are lite (~10lbs) and our hoods are ~50lb... i dont think it will do much harm doing 15sec runs.

 

the weight savings on cf hoods are minimal as our hoods are fairly light as is..

anyway, imo theres too much risk of the hood lifting when its cracked open like that..

 

very interesting, but dangerous...........infiniti should jst fix this glitch in the nxt model

 

I ran a 4 inch plumbing tube from right under my pop-charger to the air inlets in the front bumper, Im not sure how much it helped, but i know after a long drive the pop charger stayes cool from the cool air being blown on it. I will post some pics. when i get a chance.

 

I wouldn't recommend anyone running around with their hood unlatched. There are so many issues concerning this. An amazing amount of pressure builds up at the front of the car and with the hood unlatched, this pressure gets forced under the hood. At speeds over 60mph, the pressure becomes very significant. Unlatching the hood would have a significant on the drag of the car too.

As for the intake design, it's completely fine. There's no design glitch. Neither the over radiator duct or Powerduct become sealed over by the hood. It might appear that way, but it's not. The pressure build up at the front of the car forces air into the grille area and into these two ducts. BMWs use the same style setup. I hardly think they're engineers are incompetent

As for the G-tech device, I've never trusted them. I've tested them on the track and they've always read .1.-.2 and 2mph+ too fast.

 

I am not planning to run with hood open, Just testing it to see if bring more air to the front duct could improve the 1/4 mile run in controlled experiment.

I decied to Cut open the piece of black plastic that's blocking Air flow on the Grill right above the Infiniti Logo. I created this opening, It's about 1" High 6-7" long. I also added two new screws to force down the duct & taped the seals. Then, I inserted a pience of
wood to force open the duct opening a bit, It's warped & the opening become smaller, open your hood & look at the duct opening, you'l see. Most duct are warped, because the hood actually sit on top & touch it with a rubber seal.

I'll test Run again to see it improvment is noticable, with hood closed.

I agree G-Time isn't accurate in 'Abosolute Term", But it's very consistant
& accurate in "Relative Term', It's all about how to properly interpretate your data. If you loged same 0-60 Run to Run, but see a consistant beter 1/4 mile number, The 0-60 is then used to calibrate & validate your data as references, then the conclusion could be made that the higher 1/4 mile run is resulted from more air at high speed that's presurized into the Air duct.

When you pop the hood, The Power Duct (the opening directly in front of Air Box) is also exposed to incoming air at High Speed. This will also increase presurized cold air to filter.

Then, here comes the negative, the drag is increased. However, the net result is a positive one. I don't suggest anyone running with hood open,
but my test prove that there is room for improvment for OEM air duct.

Fron this experiment, I would estimate that the Varis Air Duct, some has installed on 350Z could shave at least 0.1 on 1/4 mile Run.

http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Tutor...t_Installation

Only draw back is running in rain could suck in water too easily. Unless there is a door to close the duct for rainy days.

 

Check this article, it talked about improved "Ram Air' for 2007 Infiniti Sedan,
which was credited for increase of several HP.

Anyone could get a photo for the Air Duct for 07 model?


http://72.14.209.104/search?q=cache:...s&ct=clnk&cd=1

 

One day I forgot to latch my hood and went to do a run to Best Buy. When I entered the highway I was completely surprised how extremly strong my car got. To the point where 2nd gear flooring it was making my tires come loose, and 1st gear was completely useless. I was like, what the. So then I noticed the hood was open. Did it a few more times then closed the hood and noticed the car lost power. DaveO cut a hole in his radiator support in front of the Stillen AIRBOX and this makes a ram-air effect. I can believe without a doubt that does work. But you need a Stillen Intake to make it work.

 

Can you please elaborate a little bit on where did he cut the hole?
Thanks

 

I can't find my freakin pictures anywhere. Uggg. Anyone got a shot of the Stillen Intake on a car that I can put a red area after editing it?