Will it make the startup, or the acceleration sound MORE AGGRESSIVE also?

I'm trying to find a way to get my car to sound a BIT more aggressive (it's stock now) while still having that luxury inside.. want to enjoy my music and conversations

I also love the low sounding chilled out reving when I'm traveling at slower speeds

Do you guys have a good reccomendation for all this?

THANKS!

 

Adding the Z-tube and Popcharger will create a rather loud and strong growl over 3500 RPM. I don't think it changes the startup or idle any. Primarily the sound is more aggressive when you are accelerating hard. However it maintains the luxury side so you can hear your music when just cruising.

To change the startup and idle sound I think you would have to buy a new exhaust. Personally I am very happy with the Popcharger/Z-tube combo since it gets loud under hard acceleration and is not much louder than stock cruising on the highway.

2003 G35c/5AT/BS-Graphite/Prem/Aero/Splash/NISMO sway bars/JWT Popcharger/Z-Tube

 

Ah thanks, that pop charger seems like a good option then does the car feel any faster w/ the 6.5 ? I'm not exactly looking to do performance mods, but if it can add a little bit more UUMPH I am all for it

I apologize in advance for all the outrageously remedial question.. I've recently been more interested in cars and learning about them so my knowledge is still sooo minimal!

 

Personally I think it pulls a little harder 4K RPM and up. However you really need to do the Popcharger AND Z-tube to get the complete benefit. Doing the popcharger alone will not improve the sound much without the Z-tube. I got both for $190 shipped from EverythingG35 and its defintely worth it.

2003 G35c/5AT/BS-Graphite/Prem/Aero/Splash/NISMO sway bars/JWT Popcharger/Z-Tube

 

Nice, thanks... I will look into this for sure! Can installation be self done?

Is there a simple explaination as to what these two do for the G35? Like is it better intake? Or something of that nature?

Thanks

 

I was just wondering.. does the pop charger and Z tube really put an extra of 6.5 WHP? BTW.. how much HP at the crank if it's 6.5 WHP?

TB/Black, 6MT coupe, Aero, Premium, Navi, Pop Charger + Z-Tube, Clear Corners, 30% tint.

 

the z-tube and pop charger combo can definitely be self installed. there is a DIY somewhere here on the forum.

cb/graphite g35c - fully loaded
jwt pop charger - 350z tube

 

The Z-tube seems so primative... what exactly does it do??

 

It lessens the restriction of the flow. Also, the G35 intake tube has a little area the air needs to circulate and the longer it's in the little area and close to the super hot engine it warms up. The z tube is just a straight plastic tube with no little area thingy and sends the air straight to the engine, letting the engine recieve colder air which combusts better giving you the extra power. And that's it. Somebody correct if I'm wrong.

Heeeeellllllloooooooooo people.......

2003.5 Black/Black 5AT Fully Loaded w/ Navi
Clear Corners / Injen CAI

 

The extra little thingy in the G35 intake tube (compared to the Z tube) is a resonator which makes the intake quieter than the Z's. But because of this extra plumbing (i.e. bends and additional inner surfaces), there is also an extra bit of restriction for the air travelling into the engine. Where compared to the Z's intake tube, all of the air travels "smoothly" into the engine for combustion.

It's pretty easy to do it yourself. It took me about an hour and a half, and I'm not a mechanic type either. Check out this site: http://www.aridan.net/genie/diy/JWTP...rZTubeDIY.html It's taken from one of the members of Freshalloy who made this page.

I haven't dyno'ed my car with this small modification but I do feel a slight difference in performance from my butt dyno. Also, the sound alone is worth the mod. Above 3,500 rpm or so, under WOT, you will unleash the beast within. =)

Happy modding!

G35C 6M BS/G - Z Tube/Popcharger/AL Pedals/Clear Corners/Skyline 350GT badging
Revved to 6k, looking for 7th gear!

 

dennis,

If you check this thread Central Florida Dyno Day in the technical forum and spend a little time reading, you will see what the actual gains the Z-Tube and JWT Popcharger yield. A group of guys spent about $800 and gathered a bunch of data to prove what mods really are worth the money. Surprisingly, most mods delivered as promised, only a few didn't and I'm not sure if they just don't work well together, or the manufacturer claims are a bit exaggerated.

If I was new to the whole G35 thing I was looking for some good recommendations as to what to install to get the sound and performance up, I'd do the following...

1. Z-Tube
2. Stillen High Flow with K&N drop in air filter (instead of JWT Popcharger)
3. Crawford Plenum
4. Crawford Cats (instead of RT Cats)

For ~$1200 you will gain about 20bhp and definitely make your G sound more "mean" at idle. And if you think that sounds good, wait until you hit ~4000 rpms. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]


301-bhp!!! ...and growing!

 

If you want an awesome growl while still keeping it at a civilized level of decibels, definitely go for the Z tube / JWT pop charger combo. Don't know about the 6.5hp nor the butt dyno, but I guarantee you that the sound alone will make this mode a worthwhile...[img]/w3timages/icons/cool.gif[/img]

If you go to the following link, at the end of the album you can find a few samples I took after installing the Z tube and pop charger. This will give you an idea of what these two sound like...

link to samples

These are the same instruction as the ones in the link that were posted above. I created an html format so people can print it while performing this mod.

Good luck.


04 6MTC DG/G/Prm/NAV/C.Crnrs/C.Br/A.ped/Polk/PIAA/Grnd.Kit/Rebadged/JWT Pop Charger/Z-Tube/Spl.Grds

 

To see what is technically possible buy an inexpensive dial Dwyer manometer on ebay [this gauge come in 3"-30" water column FS models for $20]. I have 4 units [3",10", 20" 40" FS] to optimize the resolution of what I'm trying to measure.
100% volumeric efficiency means 100% of the cylinder volume is filled with air by the atmospheric pressure. Impossible because there is some restrictions [thru valves, heads, TB, MAF etc]. 2 valve engines run 80%, 4 valve engines 90%........at the plenum runner tune point both can add 5-10% over a very narrow [+- 200] rpm range......the torque peak rpm.

Don't get confused, the engine doesn't suck in air, the atmospheric pressure rushes in to fill the partial vacuum in the cylinder as the piston moves down on the intake stroke.

Members may be more familiar with a typical vacuum guage where they read 18 inches of mercury plenum idle vacuum.
1 inch of mercury = 13.6 inches of water
=3366 Pascals=0.4912 psi
http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/pressure

So the manometer is over 100 times more sensitive to tiny variations in atmospheric pressure. I can read 1/10th of a percent to 10% restriction in very accurate steps.

Typically the restriction thru air boxes and a paper filter is 4-6" [or less] at the redline rpm [not even measurable at idle or cruise<1.0"....1/4 of a %.
Nissan and most other companies currently set limits on the restriction to less than 1% at the torque peak rpm ~~ 2.0 inches of water with a brand new filter]. They allow the engineers to loose 1% torque [2.5 lb/ft] in the interest of quiet and well filtered induction air! At the HP peak rpm this might be allowed to rise to 1.5-2%.
The MAF might have 5-7" WC restriction, the piping after MAF another 1-2-3, the throttle body another 5-6".

All together the WOT plenum vacuum [restriction] might get as high as 18" WC at 6500-7000 rpm or 0.65 psi..........that would equal a 4.4% restriction to air flow. This is usually referred in total as "throttling losses". At idle/cruise the almost closed throttle and inefficient rpm combine to lose 62%-66% = 18-20 inches of mercury plenum vacuum.

Assuming HP creation is purely a function of air flow, from perfection to real world [280 HP x 4.4%= 12HP].

In the past [early 90's] Nissan allowed a little more restriction as the HP race had not really begun. [My 90 Q measures 18" WC at WOT plenum at 7200 rpm ~~4.5% power loss.....with a Pop Charger is drops to 15".........a 0.8% improvement ~~ 2.4-3.0 HP

You drill and tap a hollow tiny tube into the air flow after what you are trying to measure, with a rubber hose you have the manometer inside and watch the restriction as you WOT and rpms rise. The other port on manometer is left open so it auto corrects for tiny changes in real atmospheric pressure.

Aftermarket filter induction system MANUFACTURES don't want you to understand how these things are measured. They try to confuse the public using big old fashioned restricted engines [intake designs].........showing how their product improves on obsolete designs and big HP engines which flow 2-3 times what the G does.........1% of 600 HP is 6 HP but 0.8% of 280=2.2HP.

When people are fooled into buying things, the dyno operators who only make money if you do dyno runs collude intentionally or not to make them feel better and come back and spend more....They are just trying to help you feel happy and give you a piece of paper to brag about to your friends, who may come and spend some money with them.

The better the dyno numbers look the better their reputation and the more business they get........lots of pressure when the dyno payment is due each month.

 

I just installed the z-tube/Pop Charger combo this past weekend. I do like the deeper growl of the z-tube at the higher RPMS. I can hear the "sucking sound" as Ross Perot would say, of the pop charger. Regarding the butt dyno, I haven't noticed an increase in performance at this point. I haven't really tested it out fully either. Also, I disconnected the battery for 12 hours or so as recommended by some members so the ECU could be reset. Over all, I would recommend installing these two mods. For the money, it's a nice improvement.

 

Can you blame the dyno guys they are making you feel good and not hurting anybody. They are not Licensed Professional Engineers who have to seal and sign each document and accept legal liability for errors.
Ever heard of a dyno operator getting sued for a false report?

Notice none of the published documents are at seal, just what "we" found on the dyno. They don't tell you that they did 100 dyno runs and picked the best one.

Same with manufacturer's rated power, most are ethical but they still get to pick and chose which engines go on the engine dyno to be included in the 4-5 that are averaged to create published numbers. You can be assured those are not production line assembled but fitted and matched by a team of engineers.........because all this is done before production starts............later as built samples are taken for QC but 5% variance is allowed...........10 HP less is ok. Because they can't be caught, because few will pull and measure their engine.

Now Ford got caught a while back ......"In 1999, Ford recalled 5,300 1999 SVT Mustang Cobras after admitting the vehicle's engine did not produce its advertised 320 horsepower. The recall came after Mustang Cobra owners complained of a shortfall of as much as 50 horsepower. Ford traced the power problem to the engine's cast aluminum intake manifold and its exhaust system. "