Naturally Aspirated "GURUS", come in, come in...
#61
Atta-boy on the AT - now lets go kick some MT @ss at the drag strip!!! (not on a road course though
![Embarrassment](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I need an MT 370Z for everything other than straight-line racing and street tootleing (did I just type that word?
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#63
I kinda liked the sound after HFC... but headers made it a little raunchy... cats weren’t too different, just slightly deeper grunt... headers changed the pitch all together, but I did cams at the same time, so I'm not sure how diff it would be without cams.
I have Stillen gen 1 exhaust (sedan) - so it’s loud to begin with (without headers, cams and hfc).
Whatever you do – don’t base your decision (as far as sound) on clips over the internet… that is the most ludicrous thing I see ppl do! You can have a bone stock exhaust sound deeper and meaner than my car on a sound clip over a computer, depending on the audio system… listen in person if sound means something to you. Personally I was more concerned with performance, so I researched the hell out of everything (on more sites than this one) and went to a bunch of dyno events to see what mods were producing more gains… and am lucky enough to have met some very knowledgeable people in the VQ community that have shared their expertise….
Like any hobby, learn as much as you can and implement what works – you’ll be satisfied.
I have Stillen gen 1 exhaust (sedan) - so it’s loud to begin with (without headers, cams and hfc).
Whatever you do – don’t base your decision (as far as sound) on clips over the internet… that is the most ludicrous thing I see ppl do! You can have a bone stock exhaust sound deeper and meaner than my car on a sound clip over a computer, depending on the audio system… listen in person if sound means something to you. Personally I was more concerned with performance, so I researched the hell out of everything (on more sites than this one) and went to a bunch of dyno events to see what mods were producing more gains… and am lucky enough to have met some very knowledgeable people in the VQ community that have shared their expertise….
Like any hobby, learn as much as you can and implement what works – you’ll be satisfied.
#65
MREV3 is Tony’s latest lower collector made of 100% phenolic... if you are a fan of thermal management and using every trick to get cold air in the combustion chamber, then its a very intriguing concept! Good new is Tony is a stickler about testing and wont release it until he knows its viable... bad news is Tony is a stickler about testing and wont release it until he knows its viable (which means it could take a while). The concept is to prevent heat from the manifold from reaching the intake plenum, in an attempt to keep the intake air colder – if it holds together and can be manufactured for a reasonable price I think it’s a win! We’ll see…
If you really don’t know what FD is = its the final drive ratio of ring & pinion gears (in the rear end). As an AT yours is 3.3 which are quite a bit taller than 3.7 that I run... MT OEM is 3.5, but because they have 6 speeds, its advantageous for them to go 3.9 or 4.0 (like JB)... and AT would run out of gear going with a FD that short (well, not the new 7 speed ATs)... the shorter the gear (higher the number), the quicker the acceleration – I always use a 10-speed bike as analogy… short sprocket = easier faster revolutions and get to speed quicker – but you can only peddle so fast in a short gear then your done and need to switch to a bigger gear… 3.3 is like 5th gear on a 10 speed, takes a while to get up to speed, but lets you keep accelerating longer… 3.7 is like 1st or 2nd gear on a 10 speed, to quickly accelerate, its not slow and sluggish… some ppl note that a downfall of shorter gears is you lose top speed – I can assure you, you will never be going so fast that top speed is ever hindered. Also, some ppl point out that mpg suffers because you are always a few hundred rmp higher (in every gear) and yes, this is true – but to what extent I’m not sure because I always drive spirited (my car is not a daily driver), so my mpg sux anyway – I have been on a couple expended mile trips and if there is an mpg variance its not more than 1 mpg or so… but my data is a bad example simply because I don’t drive the car enough to know (or care).
If you've ever driven an 07-08 AT sedan, you’ll feel how much snappier the acceleration is... most of that is the FD (3.692)... thats what prompted me to get it... prior to the 07 sedan most ATs were upgrading to 3.5
okay - now you are either laughing your @ss off that I spent this much time telling you stuff you already knew - or you know understand better and are ready to research to be sure I'm not blowing smoke up your @ss
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Edit: See post #77 for more info regarding FD (as it pertains to AT)
Last edited by OCG35; 04-01-2009 at 12:05 PM.
#66
If you have a show car and want to put mirrors underneath the see the undercarriage, don’t get Crawford… if you want quality and proven performance, they are a good choice. Opinions will always vary. I have Crawford, that what I speak on.
#69
#70
I guess my MREV3 explanation was lacking... Oh nvrmnd... I just re-read your post - you were asking when its coming out, not what is it... oh well, I guess the "when is it coming out" was somewhat aswered too... not soon enough
#73
Performance Nissan (aka MyNismo) or West Covina Nissan (aka The Nismo Shop) *google for contact*... its an OEM part, but most dealers dont carry it.
#74