ok I'll try it.. and this will reset the ECU and put the idle back below 1k rpms?

 

It will reset the ecu. I think it will fix the idle unless there is something wrong.

 

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

* Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure.

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.


* Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


* Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It's best to time with a watch/clock.
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

 

The gains noted are right in line with the norm with nearly all the gains going to the spacer.

As for 6MT and Revups vs the autos, it's about a 10whp/10wtq difference between an auto and 6MT on the dyno. Comparing Revup numbers to his is meaningless. Different dynos spit out different numbers. On a Dynojet, a 5AT with a spacer typically sees ~230whp. A 6MT with a spacer sees ~240whp and a Revup with MREV setup typically sees ~245whp.

 

so if i'm understanding u correctly.. based on the dyno I would get different numbers.. The dyno that i was tested on was a mustang dyno (well thats what the sticker said on it).

So the AT numbers are not the numbers that are posted on motordyne's website.. The reason I ask, cuz when I was looking at the site it said, I could get between 12 to 15 more hp.

 

Did you reset your ECU???

 

MREV2 + spacer is definitely worth it.
They're bolt on reliable easy mods and if I had to do it over again I would in a heartbeat.

 

Broke as a Joke,

Can you send me the electronic data files for your dyno testing? I can do an A-B plot with it to see what it did.

Thanks,
Tony

 

The most noticable gains your going to get (especially on a dyno) is Test Pipes. I got my car tuned with a couple mods and when I was talking to the guy who tuned the car, he even said the test pipes were giving me a good chunk of my gainned hp. Of course I didn't get huge gains but my overall power strip is very smooth. so my recommendation would be (as a few members said already) tp or hfc (if your area is strict w/ that stuff & they can tell) & exhaust. I was surprised about how little hp was gainned from exhaust but I should of done a little bit more research when I got a couple years ago, but now I know :-p

 

Tony, I don't have the electronic data file. All they gave me was the curve that i posted.. My apology about getting back to you on this.

I have not reset the ECU, because it went back down below 1K rpms, but i notice it does go back up from time to time.

I apperciate all the feedback