Yes, Another Exhaust Question Thread
#16
10-18-2019, 05:42 PM
Start with the cheap options, look for a coupe midpipe and an HR y-pipe. You should be able to find them each for around $75 or less and it will make an '03 sedan sound like a completely different animal. Don't touch the muffler or tips until you're in a position to go for a full cat-back system.
Next look for a 3.5 VLSD differential from a 6MT equipped coupe or sedan, it will give a MUCH quicker 1/4 mile time than HFCs, tune, etc. It's the best go-fast mod you can do to the naturally aspirated 5AT equipped platforms (you do have an automatic transmission yes?) and you can pick them up for under $500 usually. It's a very straightforward installation too, unbolt the axles, unbolt the propeller shaft, unbolt the wheel speed sensors, unbolt the differential. Installation is in reverse, all the torque specs are listed in section RSU - Rear Suspension of the FSM.
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/in...e-manuals.html
Look up how to count the revolutions on a differential to determine the gear ratio, use match marks on the input and axle shafts, rotate the input shaft EXACTLY 3.5 turns and the wheels shafts will turn exactly once. Easy to see if it's a VLSD as well, grab each of the axle shafts and try to turn them in opposite directions, it will be VERY stiff (but you can do it) if it's a viscous limited slip differential.
Next look for a 3.5 VLSD differential from a 6MT equipped coupe or sedan, it will give a MUCH quicker 1/4 mile time than HFCs, tune, etc. It's the best go-fast mod you can do to the naturally aspirated 5AT equipped platforms (you do have an automatic transmission yes?) and you can pick them up for under $500 usually. It's a very straightforward installation too, unbolt the axles, unbolt the propeller shaft, unbolt the wheel speed sensors, unbolt the differential. Installation is in reverse, all the torque specs are listed in section RSU - Rear Suspension of the FSM.
https://www.nicoclub.com/archives/in...e-manuals.html
Look up how to count the revolutions on a differential to determine the gear ratio, use match marks on the input and axle shafts, rotate the input shaft EXACTLY 3.5 turns and the wheels shafts will turn exactly once. Easy to see if it's a VLSD as well, grab each of the axle shafts and try to turn them in opposite directions, it will be VERY stiff (but you can do it) if it's a viscous limited slip differential.
Is it OK to go with an OEM one? Or better to look for a 'performance' one? I rather like that most of the mods I've done are close to stock... basically just switching up factory parts you know? Makes it feel... idk more wholesome lol. Like we're just correcting little mistakes.
Can I install the y-pipe directly with my current setup? I don't need anything else? I read the mega thread but it wasn't clear to me... some said something about a 6" extension whereas others including the OP didn't mention anything about that. Of course they had other mods too.
Thank you again for your assistance good sir. You're a gentleman and a scholar.
#17
10-18-2019, 07:53 PM
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Yeah when I say "HR y-pipe" I mean the OEM y-pipe from a VQ35HR equipped vehicle. It can be from a 350Z or a G35, I don't think the length was different on the 350Z, it was the midpipe that was shorter.
They're fairly easy to spot compared to a DE y-pipe, it's got a smoother looking heat shield without the wrinkles in it.
They're fairly easy to spot compared to a DE y-pipe, it's got a smoother looking heat shield without the wrinkles in it.
#18
10-19-2019, 01:26 PM
Yeah when I say "HR y-pipe" I mean the OEM y-pipe from a VQ35HR equipped vehicle. It can be from a 350Z or a G35, I don't think the length was different on the 350Z, it was the midpipe that was shorter.
They're fairly easy to spot compared to a DE y-pipe, it's got a smoother looking heat shield without the wrinkles in it.
They're fairly easy to spot compared to a DE y-pipe, it's got a smoother looking heat shield without the wrinkles in it.
Thank you again for your information and opinion. I know this is a forum, but it almost feels like a private chat since no one else seems to be chiming in
#19
10-19-2019, 03:49 PM
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#20
10-22-2019, 05:19 PM
Does this look correct? https://offerup.com/item/detail/652418461/ I realize it's not a very good picture. I'd offer like $30 bucks. Also gonna try and find a coupe midpipe. In that case, should I try and get one that is the same year as my car? Or should it match the y-pipe?
#21
10-22-2019, 09:21 PM
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#22
10-22-2019, 09:35 PM
Yes, it appears I am looking at the HR then. He wanted 50 I offered 30, we met in the middle at $40. He is local but I might make him bring it to me.
Since it is so much shorter after they converge, what does that mean for install? Will it not be compatible with my current (stock 2003 G35 Sedan 6MT) exhaust? Will I need to get an adapter or extension of some sort?
Also, for the coupe midpipe, you said it does include the resonator above. If I get a coupe resonator/midpipe will I need to make more adjustments? Or should I wait and do them both at the same time?
Thank you again, so much for your help. I may be a little thick or boneheaded with this stuff, but I'm great at computers, I promise!
Since it is so much shorter after they converge, what does that mean for install? Will it not be compatible with my current (stock 2003 G35 Sedan 6MT) exhaust? Will I need to get an adapter or extension of some sort?
Also, for the coupe midpipe, you said it does include the resonator above. If I get a coupe resonator/midpipe will I need to make more adjustments? Or should I wait and do them both at the same time?
Thank you again, so much for your help. I may be a little thick or boneheaded with this stuff, but I'm great at computers, I promise!
#23
10-22-2019, 10:13 PM
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#24
10-22-2019, 10:27 PM
I hope to get better pics tomorrow. Purchase Thursday. Should I get whatever gaskets are needed too? (if so which ones?) My car is from 2003 idk if it's a good idea to reuse the old ones or not?
Last edited by nasch007; 10-22-2019 at 10:28 PM. Reason: Thursday
#25
10-24-2019, 10:57 PM
Originally Posted by nasch007
Silly question (I haven't asked enough of those) does Driver's side/Passenger side matter? Or can you install it only in one orientation?
I hope to get better pics tomorrow. Purchase Thursday. Should I get whatever gaskets are needed too? (if so which ones?) My car is from 2003 idk if it's a good idea to reuse the old ones or not?
I hope to get better pics tomorrow. Purchase Thursday. Should I get whatever gaskets are needed too? (if so which ones?) My car is from 2003 idk if it's a good idea to reuse the old ones or not?
If you are like me you'll attempt to put it on the wrong way first every time
.
#26
10-24-2019, 11:01 PM
My plan is HR y-pipe, coupe resonator (this includes the midpipe from what I've seen?), flowmaster flow fx muffler w/ exhaust tips. What inlet should I choose for the muffler? Is it 2.5 or 2.25 to match the coupe midpipe? Or am I way out in left field here? Also, will all of these just bolt right on? No extensions or welding necessary?
Thanks again!
#27
10-24-2019, 11:11 PM
#28
10-25-2019, 06:32 PM
Does the OEM/Stock 350z muffler/resonator = the G35 coupe muffler/resonator?
I see this was posted today in my area... it replaces the Y pipes and bolts straight to the cats. So a true cat-back system, I guess... instead of my Frankenstein. https://offerup.com/item/detail/769623336 what do you think is that a good deal? I don't know about the rasp/drone for that setup so I'm a little wary
#29
10-25-2019, 08:36 PM
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No idea how the DC will sound, but the price is right and you can always have a muffler shop add resonators if it's really obnoxious.
Since it looks like you're going to be doing this Soon™ you should go buy a can of PB Blaster and shoot every bolt on the existing exhaust that you're going to take off. Do it now so it's got a week or more to really work into those threads, it will make life MUCH easier when you go to take them off later.
You will also want some kind of impact driver or wrench to loosen most of those bolts, don't just go apeshit full trigger on them either, rattle them slowly and try to get the impact to work the corrosion loose or you're going to be breaking fasteners off. I would only use wrenches if there was no other option.
You DEFINITELY want to use 6 point sockets, don't even think of using 12 point ones unless you want to round those bolts off lol. I don't care if they're brand new Snap On 12 points, it's going to **** up your fasteners when used on exhaust nuts.
Since it looks like you're going to be doing this Soon™ you should go buy a can of PB Blaster and shoot every bolt on the existing exhaust that you're going to take off. Do it now so it's got a week or more to really work into those threads, it will make life MUCH easier when you go to take them off later.
You will also want some kind of impact driver or wrench to loosen most of those bolts, don't just go apeshit full trigger on them either, rattle them slowly and try to get the impact to work the corrosion loose or you're going to be breaking fasteners off. I would only use wrenches if there was no other option.
You DEFINITELY want to use 6 point sockets, don't even think of using 12 point ones unless you want to round those bolts off lol. I don't care if they're brand new Snap On 12 points, it's going to **** up your fasteners when used on exhaust nuts.
#30
10-27-2019, 05:46 PM
No idea how the DC will sound, but the price is right and you can always have a muffler shop add resonators if it's really obnoxious.
Since it looks like you're going to be doing this Soon™ you should go buy a can of PB Blaster and shoot every bolt on the existing exhaust that you're going to take off. Do it now so it's got a week or more to really work into those threads, it will make life MUCH easier when you go to take them off later.
You will also want some kind of impact driver or wrench to loosen most of those bolts, don't just go apeshit full trigger on them either, rattle them slowly and try to get the impact to work the corrosion loose or you're going to be breaking fasteners off. I would only use wrenches if there was no other option.
You DEFINITELY want to use 6 point sockets, don't even think of using 12 point ones unless you want to round those bolts off lol. I don't care if they're brand new Snap On 12 points, it's going to **** up your fasteners when used on exhaust nuts.
Since it looks like you're going to be doing this Soon™ you should go buy a can of PB Blaster and shoot every bolt on the existing exhaust that you're going to take off. Do it now so it's got a week or more to really work into those threads, it will make life MUCH easier when you go to take them off later.
You will also want some kind of impact driver or wrench to loosen most of those bolts, don't just go apeshit full trigger on them either, rattle them slowly and try to get the impact to work the corrosion loose or you're going to be breaking fasteners off. I would only use wrenches if there was no other option.
You DEFINITELY want to use 6 point sockets, don't even think of using 12 point ones unless you want to round those bolts off lol. I don't care if they're brand new Snap On 12 points, it's going to **** up your fasteners when used on exhaust nuts.
Also, I won't be doing the work myself, I am hoping to pickup a coupe midpipe/resonator and then probably a new muffler/exhaust tips. I plan to have it all installed at once and with new gaskets and my mechanic said he will do it so probably cheaper than a muffler shop but I will shop it around. Also I will do the pb blaster I get what you're saying with that.
