For those of you upgrade to 06 tail lights...
#46
09-28-2008, 04:01 PM
#47
09-28-2008, 06:38 PM
#48
09-28-2008, 06:42 PM
#49
09-28-2008, 07:35 PM
hey greengoblin, thanks man.. i know youre very much into graphic yourself.. probably you should post some of your works too...
i need some help here... yesterday when i was looking around for the wiring set, i found out that the fusebox (J/B) next to my accelerator pedal... is all in japanese,... can someone take a picture of the diagram and post it to me... i would like to label them up for future usage. theyre all in blade fuses...thats the other problem i need to figure out... where to buy em...
i need some help here... yesterday when i was looking around for the wiring set, i found out that the fusebox (J/B) next to my accelerator pedal... is all in japanese,... can someone take a picture of the diagram and post it to me... i would like to label them up for future usage. theyre all in blade fuses...thats the other problem i need to figure out... where to buy em...
#50
09-28-2008, 09:28 PM
Hey Nameless - many props for figuring this out on your Car...nice work.
Unfortunately I can't see how this will work on the North American Infiniti. I went through pretty much the entire FSM and looked at nearly every connection on the BCM and can't find a wire that will give me 12V constant when the doors are either locked or unlocked so I can't find a way to properly switch power on the relay for locking/unlocking. I even looked at using the immobilzer to find a 12V signal when the Immobilzer is engaged (figured that was good enough). I can only get a 12V on/off cycle when the little red light is on/off so that's no good. I also can't find your Mitsubishi module. All wires on the BCM seem to operate on a 12V pulse for either locking or unlocking the doors and the fuel trunk. This sucks as your solution is quite elegant.
I found all the wires for getting my 12V unlock pulse from the BCM so I'm back to my latched relay idea from before unless someone can point me in another direction. The good news is that I have all the wires nessecary to make my latch work properly (I think).
Unfortunately I can't see how this will work on the North American Infiniti. I went through pretty much the entire FSM and looked at nearly every connection on the BCM and can't find a wire that will give me 12V constant when the doors are either locked or unlocked so I can't find a way to properly switch power on the relay for locking/unlocking. I even looked at using the immobilzer to find a 12V signal when the Immobilzer is engaged (figured that was good enough). I can only get a 12V on/off cycle when the little red light is on/off so that's no good. I also can't find your Mitsubishi module. All wires on the BCM seem to operate on a 12V pulse for either locking or unlocking the doors and the fuel trunk. This sucks as your solution is quite elegant.
I found all the wires for getting my 12V unlock pulse from the BCM so I'm back to my latched relay idea from before unless someone can point me in another direction. The good news is that I have all the wires nessecary to make my latch work properly (I think).
#51
09-28-2008, 10:28 PM
i think you might be looking at the wrong direction, it hit me when i was looking for the 12v (+) cable myself... i stumbled across this (-) switch wire by luck... try looking for on/off ground wires.. get a constant 12v direct from battery and use a switch ground (lock (+) / unlock (-)) then there's your solution... i know somehow if you look hard enough it is there somewhere.
yes i read thru your latch and should work properly...but im not too sure how youre wiring the lock / unlock signal into relay.. im no electronic expert but how r u getting 2 different signal ... im quite new to this keyless wiring thing
yes i read thru your latch and should work properly...but im not too sure how youre wiring the lock / unlock signal into relay.. im no electronic expert but how r u getting 2 different signal ... im quite new to this keyless wiring thing
#52
09-28-2008, 11:00 PM
I can get the 12V signal from the BCM. Pin 23 (Yellow Wire) will pulse a 12V signal when the unlock is pressed. Pin 30 (Purple Wire) will pulse a 12V signal when the lock is pressed. This is how I'm planning on operating my latch. I see what you say about the 12V- wire, but I simply can't find it. Hopefully someone else can help figure this out as well.
#54
09-30-2008, 05:56 PM
Success!
Got my latching relay and it worked like a charm. It was even easier than I figured. I just cut the harness on the trunk button harness and extended the 2 wires from the button to the front of the car by the fuse panel and connected them to the relay. Then I wired in the wire for the door lock and ground to pins 1 & 2 and the unlock and ground to Pins 3 & 4. I then spliced 2 wires from the trunk button and connected them to the other side of then unlocked coil and it worked!
Just an FYI for everyone - it can be done and it is quite easy now that I know what to do.
Just an FYI for everyone - it can be done and it is quite easy now that I know what to do.
#57
10-01-2008, 06:56 AM
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#58
10-01-2008, 09:12 AM
So good news and bad news...
Good news - this is working awesome, and have been testing it relentlessly for the past day, no issues. I have it mounted in the front of the car, and works great with the lock/unlock of the car door either by the door switch or the key fob. Also, the manual trunk release in the front works regardless of the doors being locked or unlocked, so my design works as expected.
Bad news, I shrink wrapped and soldered everything together and put my dash back together because I really needed to take the car out last night. If I take my dash apart again and spend another night doing this, my wife will kill me. So here is what I propose.
I'll walk one of you through the installation either by email, phone or PM with the understanding that you will properly document and take pictures of all the steps and post it in the DIY forum. Here is a link to the relay I purchased:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=255-1490-ND
I included snips from the FSM for the location of the M1 connector on the BCM, and the pinouts for the connector so you can find pins 23 & 30.
The basic steps are:
1) Install new taillights
2) Cut the 2 wire trunk button harness connector off
3) solder new wires onto both of the wires from the taillight button
4) Remove the dead pedal, and the cover for the fuse panel as well as the drivers side kick panel and the drivers side door sill. This will expose the Body Control Module (BCM) and all the wires we need to get at and allow you to lift up the carpet. Run these new wires under the rear carpet, under the back seats, around the drivers side and under the drivers side carpet to the front of the car Near the BCM. Leave your self about 1.5 feet of slack.
5) Tap (either with a self tapping connector or soldering) the 2 wires from the front trunk button. Run these 2 wires down to the fuse panel by the drivers feet. Leave your self about 1.5 feet of slack.
6) Create 2 new grounding wires. Just get some black wire, and attach eyelet connectors to them. Attach the eyelet connectors to the M8 bolt on just above the fuse box.
7) Attach Quick disconnects to the ends of all your new wires
8) Tap the yellow wire on Pin 23 (door UNLOCK 12V pulse) of the BCM Modules M1 connector. Look in the FSM under the BL.pdf file. Pages 20,31 & 32 show you exactly where this is located.
9) Tap the purple wire on Pin 30 (door LOCK 12V pulse) of the BCM Modules M1 connector. Look in the FSM under the BL.pdf file. Pages 20,31 & 32 show you exactly where this is located.
10) Attach the wires to the relay based on the diagram I have provided.
11) You should solder and shrink wrap all your terminals so that there isn't any accidental shorts in your circuit
12) I Mounted the relay under the carpet just before the fuse panel by the drivers side door plate. There is a pretty big cavity in there and it fits in perfectly. Just use some double sided tape to secure it.
Your done. Let me know who wants to volunteer.
Good news - this is working awesome, and have been testing it relentlessly for the past day, no issues. I have it mounted in the front of the car, and works great with the lock/unlock of the car door either by the door switch or the key fob. Also, the manual trunk release in the front works regardless of the doors being locked or unlocked, so my design works as expected.
Bad news, I shrink wrapped and soldered everything together and put my dash back together because I really needed to take the car out last night. If I take my dash apart again and spend another night doing this, my wife will kill me. So here is what I propose.
I'll walk one of you through the installation either by email, phone or PM with the understanding that you will properly document and take pictures of all the steps and post it in the DIY forum. Here is a link to the relay I purchased:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...me=255-1490-ND
I included snips from the FSM for the location of the M1 connector on the BCM, and the pinouts for the connector so you can find pins 23 & 30.
The basic steps are:
1) Install new taillights
2) Cut the 2 wire trunk button harness connector off
3) solder new wires onto both of the wires from the taillight button
4) Remove the dead pedal, and the cover for the fuse panel as well as the drivers side kick panel and the drivers side door sill. This will expose the Body Control Module (BCM) and all the wires we need to get at and allow you to lift up the carpet. Run these new wires under the rear carpet, under the back seats, around the drivers side and under the drivers side carpet to the front of the car Near the BCM. Leave your self about 1.5 feet of slack.
5) Tap (either with a self tapping connector or soldering) the 2 wires from the front trunk button. Run these 2 wires down to the fuse panel by the drivers feet. Leave your self about 1.5 feet of slack.
6) Create 2 new grounding wires. Just get some black wire, and attach eyelet connectors to them. Attach the eyelet connectors to the M8 bolt on just above the fuse box.
7) Attach Quick disconnects to the ends of all your new wires
8) Tap the yellow wire on Pin 23 (door UNLOCK 12V pulse) of the BCM Modules M1 connector. Look in the FSM under the BL.pdf file. Pages 20,31 & 32 show you exactly where this is located.
9) Tap the purple wire on Pin 30 (door LOCK 12V pulse) of the BCM Modules M1 connector. Look in the FSM under the BL.pdf file. Pages 20,31 & 32 show you exactly where this is located.
10) Attach the wires to the relay based on the diagram I have provided.
11) You should solder and shrink wrap all your terminals so that there isn't any accidental shorts in your circuit
12) I Mounted the relay under the carpet just before the fuse panel by the drivers side door plate. There is a pretty big cavity in there and it fits in perfectly. Just use some double sided tape to secure it.
Your done. Let me know who wants to volunteer.
Last edited by elrooko; 10-01-2008 at 09:21 AM.