DIY - Custom 5AT MOMO Shift Knob Install (05 - 07)
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 48
Likes: 5
From: Houston, TX
05 G35 Coupe, 01 5MT Accord, 00 F150, 08 TL Type S 6MT
DIY - Custom 5AT MOMO Shift **** Install (05 - 07)
Hi everyone, I'm Peter and I just finally installed the MOMO shift **** in a way that I am happy with. I've had it for years and finally got a chance to mess with it due to having too much time in my hands. I am posting this because I was tired of the MOMO **** having slack, not sitting correctly and constantly needing to be tightened again. To fix this issue, I measured the shifter assembly and drafted some adapters to be 3D printed. After the parts were printed I was able to install it and this fixed the sloppiness, alignment and tighness problem. Since the **** is universal, the set screws never really sat correctly since there are some open areas on the shaft and it caused the **** to come loose overtime. I've also had some issues where if you tightened it too much, it would put too much stress on the button portion to depress and it did not spring back up correctly. Below, I will show the entire process on how to get your **** installed correctly for that OEM feel. I did this specifically on my 05 G35 coupe so this would work on sedans as well from 05 to 07. I am not sure if this will work for 03 to 04 models G35s.
Tools needed
- 3D printer/software
- Good filament (PLA/ABS)
- Hex tool for the screws
Parts needed
- MOMO ****
- Short hex screws (Included with the MOMO ****)
Steps:
1. Download the adapter set. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4490713
2. Load it in your 3D printer software and print it out. I use Cura but you can use whatever takes a .STL file. My infill was set to 90% and the resolution was 0.175 for 1.75 PLA.
3. Once your print is complete, take out all the rough edges with your razor blade.
4. If you have the OEM ****, remove the **** and plastic adapter on the top. I think the adapter is the blue piece but I took it off a long time ago so I don't remember. If you have the MOMO ****, just unscrew the bottom piece and take the set screws out.
5. You are left with bare shifter.
6. Install the collar 3D printed piece on the shaft. It only goes in two ways because of the slit but make sure you install it in a way where the 3 dips (where the set screw will sit in) will be aligned with the **** when the screws are tightened.
7. Install the plunger onto the button portion of the shifter. It might crack due to the thin walls not having much material to work with but as long as the button comes back up smoothly, you're okay. Notice the silver dot I put on the dip where the screw sits in. This will be important for the next step.
8. Slide the chrome bottom piece in from the ****. Take out one of the set screws and use a flashlight to shine though it. You'd want to align it in a position where the hole matches up with the dip so that when the screw goes in, it stays there. I've marked this spot with a silver marker so I can see it when trying to align it.
9. Tighten all the screws and make sure your shifter still works.
I hope you guys enjoyed this and hopefully it works for you as well.
Tools needed
- 3D printer/software
- Good filament (PLA/ABS)
- Hex tool for the screws
Parts needed
- MOMO ****
- Short hex screws (Included with the MOMO ****)
Steps:
1. Download the adapter set. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4490713
2. Load it in your 3D printer software and print it out. I use Cura but you can use whatever takes a .STL file. My infill was set to 90% and the resolution was 0.175 for 1.75 PLA.
3. Once your print is complete, take out all the rough edges with your razor blade.
4. If you have the OEM ****, remove the **** and plastic adapter on the top. I think the adapter is the blue piece but I took it off a long time ago so I don't remember. If you have the MOMO ****, just unscrew the bottom piece and take the set screws out.
5. You are left with bare shifter.
6. Install the collar 3D printed piece on the shaft. It only goes in two ways because of the slit but make sure you install it in a way where the 3 dips (where the set screw will sit in) will be aligned with the **** when the screws are tightened.
7. Install the plunger onto the button portion of the shifter. It might crack due to the thin walls not having much material to work with but as long as the button comes back up smoothly, you're okay. Notice the silver dot I put on the dip where the screw sits in. This will be important for the next step.
8. Slide the chrome bottom piece in from the ****. Take out one of the set screws and use a flashlight to shine though it. You'd want to align it in a position where the hole matches up with the dip so that when the screw goes in, it stays there. I've marked this spot with a silver marker so I can see it when trying to align it.
9. Tighten all the screws and make sure your shifter still works.
I hope you guys enjoyed this and hopefully it works for you as well.
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