Hi, I have a 2003 Infiniti G35 4 door. Mt tail light fuse has been blowing forever. I had just thrown a 30 amp fuse and its been fine for about a month then a week ago when I came out from work after it rained I started my car up and turned the light on then smoke cam from all cracks and vents of my dash. I then turned the lights off and smoke went away. I knew it was the fuse. I took out the tail light fuse then turned lights on and it was fine. I get paid 12/7/20 so I thought about taking it somewhere but if its a easy fix then Ill do it. Something to note, I do have a aftermarket radio and it worked amazingly, Then I replaced the factory tweeters with 3 sets of tweeters from Walmart. 3 on driver and 3 on passenger(yes I like to be loud). It seems that that is causing the issue but does the tail light fuse run to the radio? or Anything like that? I might take my radio out and recut and connected each wire and check the grounds but the smoke from my dash is really scary. Any help would be amazing!

 

Get out your multi-meter and do some circuit tracing.

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2003%2Flt.pdf

See page LT-143
If you keep installing incorrect fuses you will end up setting your vehicle on fire.
Then your problem with your taillights will be over

Good luck

 

It smoked because you put in a higher amperage fuse and the insulation on the wire caught on fire. You're lucky your car isn't a blackened husk at the wrecking yard right now.

That entire circuit needs to be replaced. Follow the circuit diagram that Telco posted.

For the future, the FUSE is SIZED to protect the WIRE from catching on FIRE.

If you put in a BIGGER FUSE your WIRE WILL CATCH ON FIRE!

 

Caleb:
If the insulation in the wiring harness melted allowing many other what is now bare wires to short against one another, you now have even bigger problems.
You may want to start searching for another vehicle as I doubt that your recent paycheck is going to cover the damage that you caused by putting in a larger fuse that caused the smoke from burning insulation?

 

Thanks for your comment not saying it was helpful at all. I know I have a big problem. And I work 3 jobs to cover possible problems like this. I have $15,800 in savings and my next paycheck is $1,100. I make that every 2 weeks. Is that more than you make in a month? I have contacted my local shop that does all my work on my car and he said he'll charge me $750 to look and fix my problem oh and he certified through Infiniti . So next time you try to help someone, don't assume. Someone could be living in there car having no family or job and your really gonna say "you doubt my paycheck can pay for it". Sounds like you use mommy and daddy's money.

 

For anyone who has this problem check your wiring to your aftermarket head unit. I had a hot wire that was not capped or taped up. That's what cause the smoke and burning, and all the fuse blowing. For me it was $15 to take it somwhere because I had connections with the shop owner but you can easily fix this your self. NOT a expensive fix and IS a simple fix.

 

Glad you finally found the root cause before you totally destroyed your vehicle. Since it was you that installed the aftermarket radio why didn't you just confirm that the red wire that you left uncapped was tested it with your multi-meter? Or don't you still not own or know how to use one?
Fuses have an important purpose and one should never replace a blown fuse with a larger one and expect a good outcome.
Let that be a lesson to you and others that come across this thread.
At least you now do not have to start looking for a fourth or fifth job to replace a totally destroyed vehicle.
Happy holidays

 

Glad you got everything squared away, never underestimate the power of electricity, even a 18 gauge wire will turn orange hot and burn a car to the ground if it has the wrong overcurrent protection. For the future always size your overcurrent protection (fuse/breaker/etc) based on the size of the wire.

As a general rule of thumb for TXL/GXL wire.

18 gauge should have a maximum overcurrent protection of 15 amps.

16 gauge 20 amps.

Those generic values would be for all locations OUTSIDE of the engine spaces, in the engine bay those values are usually about -25% lower. Trailer wiring like GPT has substantially lower ampacity. Consult the wire manufacturer for any questions, they will always have their ampacity charts available

Closing this thread.