so I was thinking about getting some load resistors and I saw these plug in electronic LED flashers. Does anyone have these? Anyone recommend one over the other? Also, does anyone know which one fits our car?

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

http://frickinbrite.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=62


Thanks in advance!

 

Why would you want to?

 

I'm just looking for a turn signal fix and the Electronic LED Flashers seem real simple. Just plug and play...

 

I just install LED rear turn signal with LED bulbs from Autolumination.com
I picked THE WEDGE MATRIX II LED BULB and 30W load resister. It looked just great and i will post some movie clip tomorrow. I have been installing LEDs to number of car such as my old Audi A6, Honda Civic, Maxda Rx-8 or so. so if you have questions let me know. I would like to help you.

 

Yeah, I would like to see how bright they are compared to stock bulbs... correct me if I'm wrong, but you had to install the resistor to the LED b/c otherwise our G would think the bulb was burned out (too low of current), right?

 

I haven't been able to find a direct replacement LED flasher for our cars. It seems to be a proprietary type of flasher. If you find otherwise, let me know. Also, I think the LED flasher modules are silent...they don't make the clicking noise when the bulb blinks.

With that said, I settled on a load resistor. Just mount it with cooling considerations in mind as it can heat up when you activate your blinker.

 

A 30W or 30 Ohm resistor? There is NO reason you should be needed a 30W resistor... unless you're trying to pump about 3 amps through that LED, in which case it will blow anyway.

Also, if you are plugging this directly in to where the stock blinker is, why are you trying to buy a separate flasher? The BCM (or ECM?) controls the blinking rate, the bulb does not control the rate.

 

I emailed autolumination.com and here is what I got...

Load equalizers put a load on the circuit between the battery and the led. That tricks the car into recognizing there is a bulb there, and the car will function normally. They work on every car in many functions.

An LED flasher replaces the regular electronic flasher in your car. The originals are set to a higher amp bulb than an led, so when an led is used in a signal application, the flasher believes the light is out, and it pulses down the circuit quickly trying to start it. If it does not start it, often it will stop sending current down that circuit. Either the led flashes too fast, or won't light at all in that instance. An led flasher is made to work with leds low amp draw so that removes this issue with regard to signal bulbs only. They work in the cars that they fit in that application.

I do not know which led flasher will fit your Infinity, sorry. You will need to pull the one you have and see if you can find numbers on it that make any sense, or compare the pin arrangements to those of the ones on our website here:

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

Thank you!

Tracy


---- JAM1976@aol.com wrote:
> What is the difference between the LED Flashers and Load Equalizers?
> Do they perform the same function?
> Which one would fit an Infiniti G35 Coupe?
>
> Thanks!

So if I am reading that correctly, he is saying that you CAN use a LED Flasher because it essentially does the same thing as a load equalizer as far as correcting signal issues. Agreed?

 

So a load equalizer is the same thing as a resistor. That's all a resistor is: a load. I don't quite get the explanation of the flasher, because unless the flasher already in the car is constant current (which I'm guessing it is NOT), it isn't going to blow out your LED's if you have a resistor in there. As the person at autoillumination said, they don't even know what our car has. I am pretty sure the blinking is controlled by the BCM, not an electronic flasher. I made LED's for my sidemarkers, I don't need any extra flashers. I just used resistors to set the current rating of my LED's (70 mA in my case) and I have no problems. The standard bulb in there is 5W, so that is ~0.42 amps. When my parking lights are on, I draw 0.14 amps (1.68W). When my parking lights and blinkers are on, I draw 0.28 amps max(3.36W).

 

and here is VLEDS response...


They both will fix the hyper flash or no flash problem. The Electronic
Flasher replaces your stock flasher (sorry we do not know what one fits your
vehicle) and the Load Resistors are universal, just install on the wiring
harness at the socket.

Thank you,



Jake York

Velocity Distributing Inc.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think what he's referring to is when you replace the regular incandescent bulbs in the blinkers with the LED matrix types, the car doesn't recognize the bulb due the the low amount of power it consumes, causing it believe there is no bulb in there which in turn causes the BCM to increase the rate it flashes at. The load resister adds extra resistance to pump up the power consumed by both the Matrix LED bulb and the resister itself to be equivalent to that of the incandescent bulb. But, if your just using LED side markers and splicing in the wire to the turn signal wire, you do not need to do this because the power consumed is already high. In some cases, there is a part (flasher?), its an upgrade to the stock unit that causes the signaling lights to blink, so it works with Matrix bulbs. If you upgrade this part, then you won't need the load resistor.

 

My first thought would be that your thought would be incorrect (no disrespect kyazh ) When you replace the incandescent bulb with an LED, the LED is indeed a lower power device IF you drive it with the correct current. You need a resistor there to drive it with the correct current. Without a resistor, you basically drive the LED to infinite current because it acts like a short minus the voltage drop across the resistor. That is the whole reason for putting a resistor in a LED circuit, to limit the current flying through that thing. Without the resistor, and the "infinite" current going through the LED, its gonna blow in a short amount of time, which is the reason for most people's problems with drop in LED's from what I can tell. Any other explanations of it, I've got an open mind

 

Well its obvious that the current has to be limited or else the LED's will fry. What I was referring to was how the cars electrical system treats the difference of LED's vs incandescent. This is what I was referring to...

http://jlevistreetwerks.com/store/p2...133aa74326f496

 

i was looking for some information and came across this old post. hope this clears up the mud on LEDs.

LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) are electronic 1-way streets. They pass electricity positive to negative in one direction only. If the polarity is reversed, no electricity is passed through and the LED will not light. LEDs will light using very, very little power (wattage), therefore, a resistor is needed. A resistor is a "load". It loads down the power in a circuit. Flashers are a type of relay with a positive, a negative and a load output. They require a load to operate. Such as a 20 watt bulb. Since an LED uses very little power, if a resistor is not used there is no real "load" to operate the flasher (relay). This is why a resistor is needed. Special LED flashers can be used, also. These flashers do not require a load to operate. Hope that clears that up.

 

So what kinda resistor does our cars need for the front turn signals?