If you used the Radio Shack 276-316 LED, that may be the problem.
The Panasonic is rated for 4 volts, i'm not sure but that may be the lowest volt rating you can use.
The 276-316 LED is rated for 3.7 volts, as soon as the power is connected it may be blowing the light.
I just got a Radio Shack 276-311 Blue LED. This one is rated at 5-6 volts and is the required size (5mm T1 3/4).
Ill let you all know if this works.

 

Yup, sorry about that guys. For some reason the LED that I specified from RadioShack doesn't work. ?? From what the website says, the RadioShack LED has the same voltage and current specs as the Panasonic LED that I'm using. Pimpinpearl says that the LED works when powered up from another source, i.e. battery, and that the LED has not blown. If you try out the LED from RadioShack CaribeCoupe, please post the results. Sorry again for the confusion guys.

-Alan

 

I tried the LED from radio shack with part number 276-316. Works fine for me. Its powered up and blinking just like stock. You sure you checked the polarity?

 

Well, I tried both LED's. Both work.

The 276-311 LED from Radio Shack has a brightness of 300 MCD. It is rated at a higher 6 volt max.

The 276-316 has a brightness of 2600 MCD. But is rated at a lower 3.7 to 4.5 volts max.

Like I said either will work, the 276-316 is much brighter when it blinks. MUCH.

It would help to note when you take the circuit board out and remove the red led, it is easier to mount the new led on the other side of the circuit board. The other side of the board has a "BAT'" and "NEG" symbol printed on it. The long stem of the led gets attached to the "BAT" side and the short to the "NEG".

Also you can use a hole punch and open the hole in the trim plate so the new led sticks through it. Just do it slowly. It really makes the LED more noticeable, if you dont open the hole the new LED wont stick through.

Thanks to aorbeta for the cool mod.

I wonder if PimpinPearl had soldered the two stems together by accident. They are very close on the circuit board, and one small twitch of the hand could solder them together.

 

I tried soldering the things like ten times, no dice. I am doubting my technical nature. It sucks. I will try it again later in the week when I have some time off. Thanks for all the advice.

Ivory Pearl / 6MT / Aero / Premium / Xenon Lights Everywhere / Mirror Tint / Injen CAI / Tanabe Racing Springs

 

Hmmm...I'm trying so hard to get the dash piece off, but couldn't. i scraped the dash a little bit while trying to pry it out with a flat screw driver. After that, I didn't want to go further afraid i would break it or something.

Man, and u were saying u could do this in 5 minutes? I spent like 20 minutes trying to figure out a way to take the dash piece off.

 

Have you guys tried the T1 (3mm) sized LEDS? those should be the same size as the original. (I haven't checked it yet). Digikey sells them. You can also get other colors.

 

Does anyone have any more detailed instructions on removing that front dash plate?

DP G35 coupe/ AT / Prem graphite / Sport / Aero / Titanium 19 tint / 5 wire hyper-ground kit
San Diego, CA

 

Hey guys, thanks for posting the results with the RadioShack LED's. I was afraid that I told everyone to buy a bogus part. PimpinPearl, your solder skills suck j/k. Might want to purchase another LED at RadioShack, or if you want, I can still mail you one. It'll take a few days to get in the mail.

-Alan

 

How the hell do you get that damn dash out? My fingernails dont fit inside. help please

 

it just takes persistance...a lot of it ....wut i used to get in the groove was a plastic card like ur grocery store membership card...i slides in and doesnt scratch the surface...there are four points of connection two at teh top and two at teh bottom and notch at the bottom of the clock
_________________
| x x |
\ /
\ x x /
\____ ____/
\__ /
^notch here
its easier to start from the top

 

_________________
| x x |
\ /
\ x x /
\____ ____/
\__ /

What the heck is this?

DP G35 coupe/ AT / Prem graphite / Sport / Aero / Titanium 19 tint / 5 wire hyper-ground kit
San Diego, CA

 

Try a flat blade stubby screwdriver wrapped in a towel to pry the trim off.

If you pry the lower part around the clock off it makes it easier to grap and pull off. It does take a good ammount of pressure to pop it off but it will come off.

 

To the guy with the hole punch in the dash. DO you have pics and what kind of hole puncher did you use. I would think that doesn't look very clean. And if anyone wants to try those smaller LEDSs from digikey, post some results. I hate soldering

Ivory Pearl / 6MT / Aero / Premium / Xenon Lights Everywhere / Mirror Tint / Injen CAI / Tanabe Racing Springs

 

I'll try to help you guys out with these LED issues. First, LED's are polarity sensitive like an electrolytic capacitor. I presume the markings on the led pcb for "bat" and "neg" would indicate the (+) voltage and the( -) voltage for the led. Most utilize a Vcc around 3.5 volts or so. If you put the led in backwards you could have damaged it enough so that it will not illuminate. I would suggest someone measure the voltage with a dmm (digital multi meter) after you have desoldered the old led to find out what the actual dc voltage that is being applied to the led. This way you will know the max Vcc (DC voltage) the new led will expect. If the car is outputing say 5 vdc and you put in an led max rated at 3 vdc it will be brighter for a while but more than likely burn out in the future.
GOOD LUCK!