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Has anyone cleaned that haze from the Headlamp Lens?

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  #16  
Old 11-12-2008, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by infinus
Your gonna laugh but when I bought mine I used toothpaste, it worked perfectly, my father saw it on some show on tv and I figured I might as well try it
Save your money: for less than 5 cents, take a dab of Colgate, Arm & Hammer, Aqua Fresh toothpaste (or any descent brand) rub it onto the headlight thoroughly with your fingertips (15-30 seconds per headlamp), Take a moist micro-fiber or soft cotton cloth and clean it up. Lens will look as clean as the $19.95 cleaners some places are selling. Ever wonder why toothpaste works on your teeth- toothpaste has an abrasive or polish that removes part of the enamel while you brush (not dangerously so tho) in order to remove stains and plaque, so it works likewise on the lens. You can reseal your lens thereafter with a good wax or sealant (e.g., Collinate 845, Nu Finish, Turtle Wax T-6, etc.).
 
  #17  
Old 01-12-2009, 02:02 AM
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sorry to thread revive, but you guys are forgetting that you need to seal the plastic after you polish off the protective layer from the factory.

give it a couple of months and the lights will haze worse that before.

someone mentioned to get a clear bra, which i'm sure should have some UV protection.

I use a product system called GlossyLite that has a separate polish and sealant/protectant treatment that has done wonders for my integra.

http://downforce.biz/cart/product.ph...cat=278&page=1
 
  #18  
Old 01-13-2009, 02:44 AM
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I used a drill and a polish bit with brown, all purpose compound. Tooks about 10 min for both lights and all the haze came right off. I was left with shiny headlights...
 
  #19  
Old 01-23-2009, 01:35 AM
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Hi Guys,
New to the forum but I have done numerous headlights from 911's, Benz and many many others, Fords are the worst. I own a collision shop here in Florida best way I've found is remove headlights clean them using a good wax grease remover to prep them and sand off old topcoat with say 600- 800 dry paper on a 3" disc best, or a DA be careful, until they powder up white and get uniform in appearance (removing all old coating ) take them to a body shop and have them shoot two coats of urethane clear on them, same clear thats on your car basically. I have been doing this for about five- six years like this, friends 911 still looks like new after 3 years in the Florida sun. Wax them whenever you wax your car and they'll look great for a long time. the coating from the factory is very thin and deterioates. Not only that but the Urethane Clear coat has UV inhibitor in it.
I usually charge around $60-$100,00 for this service including sanding them, so you have an idea.

BTW Look closely at the plastic if it has very small fractures in it more than likely they will not come out, you can still clear them but the fractures will stay.
 

Last edited by JohnnyO; 01-23-2009 at 03:02 AM.
  #20  
Old 01-23-2009, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyO
Hi Guys,
New to the forum but I have done numerous headlights from 911's, Benz and many others. I own a collision shop here in Florida best way I've found is remove headlight clean them using a good wax grease remover to prep them and sand off old topcoat with say 800 dry paper on a 3" disc best, or a DA be careful until they powder up white and get uniform in appearance (removing all old coating ) take them to a bodyshop and have them put two coats of urethane clear on them same clear thats on your car basically. have done cars for about five years like this, buddys 911 looks new after 3 years in the Florida sun. Wax them whenever you wax your car and they'll look great for a long time. the coating from the factory is very thin and deterioates. Not only that but Clear coat has UV inhibitor in it.
I usually charge $100,00 for this service including sanding them
wow.

by sanding you mean wet sanding right?
 
  #21  
Old 01-23-2009, 02:47 AM
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I dry sand them so you can see what your doing as far as removing the original coating, you'll see it as you remove it the coating will be a little bit yellow in color and you'll create an edge as you sand it off, when its all off and your sanding the plastic it'll be more of a white color and powder up. Wet sanding would work just keep stopping to check your work by drying it off to see that the haze your creating is uniform.


Just keep in mind that you don't want to go any finer than 800 or when you clear them it will have nothing to bite into, you can even start with 400 if there bad and finish them really well with 600-800 removing any fine scratches
 

Last edited by JohnnyO; 01-23-2009 at 02:59 AM.
  #22  
Old 08-07-2009, 12:42 AM
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sorry to revive old thread, which kind of pad do i use on my PC when using such product as meguire plastix? lamb? i dont want to use wrong material pad and create more havoc...
 
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