Long time lurker, first time poster.

I've had my ​​​​6MT 05 coupe for a little over 3 years, recently drove it cross country from the Bay Area to NYC. Current modifications are a NWP big bore TB, Stillen Hi-Flow intake, Motordyne TDX2. I got a deal on a v2 Vortech for a non rev-up VQ but I've been skeptical about installing it because my car was burning so much oil so it's been my storage unit collecting dust.

I made this account to track modifications done to my car, in case I ever sell it. Last week, I was so set on posting it for sale because it's been burning oil and I just assumed that the piston rings were bad. I decided I'd do a compression test to test that hypothesis but did not get around to doing it. When the coil pack and spark plug closest to the driver seat was removed from the motor, they were drenched in oil. As most of you know, that's an issue with the VQ valve covers. I was relieved to find that pool of oil because maybe the motor's bottom end is in good condition.

I'd like to hear thoughts of any members of this community, but I really want to hear from members with experience installing & maintaining a supercharged VQ. If the compression test comes back with good results, I'll move forward with supercharging this car and if not I'll probably sell it and be in the market for a 350 to throw this kit on.

1. Currently, my car's exhaust is only modified from the y-pipe back and I've got some HFC ordered. I think I'm ready for a tune with my NA mods, should I install headers before getting that NA tune or would it be better to install the headers as part of the Vortech install?

2. Actually, should I even get the car tuned for NA knowing that FI is my eventual plan? I'm thinking that getting the NA tune is a good idea because that tuner would be able to build on the tune from those previous components.

3. Since the Vortech kit I have is for a non-rev, I have to buy the rev-up bracket (new they're about 900$). I've also been considering ordering the v3 housing to avoid the added time/ steps for installing. I either have to tap my oil pan or drop the lower oil pan and install a spacer. My thought here is it might be easier to resell a non-rev bracket with the v2 supercharger and I'll save time on the install by only adding a sandwich plate for oil temp & pressure gauges. I've searched a bit about the difference between v2 and v3 superchargers, but I'd like to hear pros/ cons from anyone who has installed them and continued to maintain the car.

4. The kit I bought came with an oil cooler. Should I install it if I end up going with a v3?

 

Firstly get a compression test.

Here's my thoughts about your current mod setup.

Intake: You have a 75mm TB but it really won't do anything with the stock diameter intake tube. You increased the TB to 3" but your intake pipe only flows 2.5" worth of air (It's a 3" pipe but the MAF takes up about 1/2" of area) due to the restriction from the MAF. In order to get any gains from the 75mm TB you MUST install a 3.5" (or larger, I'd just stick with the 3.5" instead of the 4" because I don't like the attitude of LMT) intake pipe, the most popular is the Admin Tuning pipe. Engine REQUIRES a tune with that larger intake pipe combo.

Also for the intake, the best gains by far are from the MREV2 lower plenum with a 5/16" spacer.

Ideally you would install the MREV2, spacer, 3.5" intake all at the same time when you're getting the tune done.

Exhaust: With the stock cats there's almost zero gain from exhaust modifications on the coupe, the first most restrictive point is the factory cats, in order to unlock the POTENTIAL from teh TDX2 you must have test pipes or high flow cats, your choice, I recommend resonated versions of whatever you decide (ART pipes on that exhaust on a 6MT coupe is loud but no drone, Fast Intentions RHFC is a great cat option).

Right now your car is probably only making 5-8 whp gain over stock. Add the MREV2+spacer, 3.5" intake, HFC, tune and you'll be looking at about an additional +35whp peak with midrange gains around +50. Throw an aluminum driveshaft and lightweight flywheel on and you'll probably be PLENTY happy with the power for a good long while.

As for the oil pan spacer, I strongly recommend getting that even if you stay N/A, more oil is always better.

You can always add the S/C later, those N/A bolt-ons aren't wasted money because you'll keep those gains and only add to them with the Vortech, you're still buying the Uprev cable, still buying the license. Yes you will need a retune.

Or you could do those mods in the opposite fashion, do the S/C now, then do all the other bolt-ons, it will require a retune every time you change a component out for an upgrade. Personally I'd just do all the N/A stuff first and see how happy you are with the car. Right now if you threw on the S/C you'll probably be 340-350 whp (depends on pulley, could be higher or lower). N/A bolts ons will put you at about 285-290. Both together will tuning to keep it under the 400whp limit of the stock rods.

As for the V2 or V3, honestly it doesn't matter, the only difference is you need to plumb the oil lines on the V2. The V3 you have a separate oil change schedule for it's gearbox so either one requires a little extra work and money, the V3 gearbox oil isn't exactly cheap so in the long run it's probably cheaper to go V2. I personally don't care for the idea of a sealed lubrication system like the V3 and would rather have a constant supply of fresh oil pumping into the thing so from an engineering standpoint I like the V2 better.

You need to verify which TRIM your unit has though, hopefully your V2 is the Ti trim, if not you can call Vortech about a price on converting it to the Ti trim and use that to weigh your options.

If you stick with the V2 then yes you DEFINITELY want an upgraded oil cooler, it's a good idea for either though. If you plan any track use then an upgraded cooler and lower pan spacer is practically mandatory, especially since your engine is currently drinking oil (no the leaking spark plug well tubes is not contributing to your oil consumption). Just make sure to check the oil level weekly to top everything off, keep your oil change intervals on schedule.

 

Awesome, thanks for that info! Sounds like next upgrades to do are the MREV2, a 5/16 spacer and an oil pan spacer. If the compression test is bad, I'll add a 3.5 intake to the list. If the compression test goes well, I'll get the car tuned with the stock TB and move forward with the Vortech install.

The Vortech is in a storage unit so once I get that valve cover changed I'll get all those parts and check the trim.

 

The HFC/test pipes is a HUGE chunk of those gain, you should definitely try to get your hands on a set before the tune.