New G35 owner NEED HELP PLEASSE
#1
New G35 owner NEED HELP PLEASSE
Im new to this my first G35 and im having a problem. My G won’t start & the battery is only 6 months old but when I try to start it it makes a clicking noise and all the lights on the dash flicker. The buttons to unlock and lock the car on my remote work but I tried to jump it but it didn’t start and now i don’t know what to do do I just go out to get a new battery?
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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Just because components were recently replaced doesn't mean they're not broken.
Put your battery on a charger, if it charges that means the battery is discharged either because of a bad battery, bad cables, a failing alternator, or a current drain on the battery when it's turned off.
If the battery does NOT take a charge then it's a starting system issue which could be either the starter, or the cables.
The grounding system is a notoriously weak spot on these vehicles after 15 years of corrosion and wear. Start at the negative post, unbolt everything and clean the mating surfaces AND THE BOLT with a wire brush, apply a very thin layer of electrical anti-oxidation grease, bolt everything back together.
Negative side is neg terminal/lug, it attaches to the chassis next to the battery (clean the chassis as well with that brush...), below the coolant reservoir is another 2 hole lug like the negative chassis lug, it connects to the right side of the timing chain cover, there are also multiple other wires landed on the timing chain cover. Clean everything.
Positive side is the battery terminal and the various bolting points on the fusible link, the alternator primary wire, the starter primary wire.
Make sure the battery is disconnected when you are cleaning everything.
If you get it all back together with a cleaned electrical system, a bench tested starter, and it's still not turning over put a wrench on the crank pulley nut with the spark plugs removed and the drive belts off and turn the engine by hand to verify it's not a seized bearing. These engines are notorious for drinking oil and many people ignore checking the oil level, it runs low, spins a bearing, seizes the motor.
That clicking sound means it's not enough voltage to keep the starter solenoid engaged, you probably have a dead battery or dirty electrical connections. Also, damaged insulation on the primary cables allows moisture to contaminate it and rust out the wire from the inside. A digital multimeter set to OHMS (resistance) can test. Turn the meter to ohms (auto ranging DMM) or the lowest ohm setting (20 ohms on a cheapo cen-tech DMM), hold the leads apart, look at the meter, should be something like infinity or "out of range" or something. Now touch the probes together, should read 1 or maybe 2 or zero ohms, THAT is what it should be reading when you touch the probes to the end of the wire to read through it. No resistance or the lowest value the meter reads with the leads touching each other.
Put your battery on a charger, if it charges that means the battery is discharged either because of a bad battery, bad cables, a failing alternator, or a current drain on the battery when it's turned off.
If the battery does NOT take a charge then it's a starting system issue which could be either the starter, or the cables.
The grounding system is a notoriously weak spot on these vehicles after 15 years of corrosion and wear. Start at the negative post, unbolt everything and clean the mating surfaces AND THE BOLT with a wire brush, apply a very thin layer of electrical anti-oxidation grease, bolt everything back together.
Negative side is neg terminal/lug, it attaches to the chassis next to the battery (clean the chassis as well with that brush...), below the coolant reservoir is another 2 hole lug like the negative chassis lug, it connects to the right side of the timing chain cover, there are also multiple other wires landed on the timing chain cover. Clean everything.
Positive side is the battery terminal and the various bolting points on the fusible link, the alternator primary wire, the starter primary wire.
Make sure the battery is disconnected when you are cleaning everything.
If you get it all back together with a cleaned electrical system, a bench tested starter, and it's still not turning over put a wrench on the crank pulley nut with the spark plugs removed and the drive belts off and turn the engine by hand to verify it's not a seized bearing. These engines are notorious for drinking oil and many people ignore checking the oil level, it runs low, spins a bearing, seizes the motor.
That clicking sound means it's not enough voltage to keep the starter solenoid engaged, you probably have a dead battery or dirty electrical connections. Also, damaged insulation on the primary cables allows moisture to contaminate it and rust out the wire from the inside. A digital multimeter set to OHMS (resistance) can test. Turn the meter to ohms (auto ranging DMM) or the lowest ohm setting (20 ohms on a cheapo cen-tech DMM), hold the leads apart, look at the meter, should be something like infinity or "out of range" or something. Now touch the probes together, should read 1 or maybe 2 or zero ohms, THAT is what it should be reading when you touch the probes to the end of the wire to read through it. No resistance or the lowest value the meter reads with the leads touching each other.
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