My car shuts off on the highway crank shaft and both cam shaft codes popped up car won’t start or crank I changed crank shaft and bank 2 cam still need to change bank 1 any help ?

 

Check for damaged wiring, clear the codes and check again to see EXACTLY what codes it's throwing after you crank the engine.

Does the tach move a little when cranking? It should, if it's not then start with the crank sensor.

 

I cleared the code they all came back even when I changed the crank shaft and the bank 2 cam shaft…they all came back so I’m confused

 

Exactly which codes, sounds like it's time to ring out the wires between the crank and cam harnesses back to the ECM to make sure the circuits are intact.

Here is the schematic for CKP, CMP1, CMP2

 

Here is the wire color chart.

 

 

Alternately, all 3 of those sensors use the SAME GROUND CONNECTION, M66/M30. You might have just broken the ground wire on that circuit which would cause all 3 sensors to fail, they all splice together somewhere in the main engine harness but I'm not sure where.

It's PROBABLY not M66 or M30 which is the main ECM ground, that one is located behind the glove box and behind the instrument cluster. If you have recently had work done in those areas or have an aftermarket stereo head unit then it might be worth tearing that stuff apart to see if it's an issue. Only do this if you don't actually have continuity to ground on CKP pin 3 or CMP1/2 pin 1.

 

P0335 is the crank sensor.

P0340 is the bank 1 cam sensor.

Also, be sure to only use Hitachi or OEM Nissan sensors. These cars don't play nice with any aftermarket ones.

 

i live like 30 mins from z1 that’s where I get all my parts from

 

Please listen to cleric670

It is not unheard of to obtain defective out of the box defective parts.
Good luck

 

Z1 is a good source of parts since they mostly just carry OEM things anyways. Since you swapped both sensors and are still throwing both codes it's HIGHLY unlikely that the sensor is the problem. Definitely ring out the wires following the diagrams I posted.

First test for power on each sensor, it's the pink wire, with the ignition ON you should have 12vdc with one probe on the pink wire and the other probe on chassis ground/metal source AND to the black wire on it's harness. Both should read 12vdc (volts direct current)

Next test for ground it's the black wire, turn the meter to ohms, touch the leads together so you see what the screen should show if you have a continuous circuit, probe the black wire on each harness with one probe and touch the other probe to a chassis ground/metal source.

If those both test out properly check the data/signal source wire back to the ECM it's the pin 2 on CKP and CMP (yellow, orange, or brown wire depending on which sensor

-Disconnect battery.

-Pump brake pedal to discharge any residual voltage

-Disconnect ECM primary harness

-Disconnect CKP and CMP bank 1 harness

-Set multimeter to OHMS, touch leads together and watch the screen show either 0 or 1 meaning a complete circuit with no resistance. This is the value you should see when you ring out all those pins back to the ECM harness.

It's easier to have a second person, you will need a length of wire about 10' long, have one person stick the wire into the appropriate pin (or backprobe the harness which is usually easier) on the harness while you use the meter and measure between the corresponding CKP/CMP harness and that lead/extension wire.