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What did you do to your car today....

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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 12:07 AM
  #76  
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replaced the burnt out clearance light bulb, took out my throttle body and gave it good clean.....my din should be in tomorrow and will be swapping that out....hopefully my 80 bucks worth of LED replacement bulbs should be here this week....yippe skippy
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 02:12 AM
  #77  
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From: Amishville, PA
DING DONG the EVIL GRID is DEAD!

i always hated the 'grid' parts of our tail lights.
so i killed 'em.


 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 02:48 AM
  #78  
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Daaaaaaaaaaamn Joe! That install looks super clean, it flies huh...
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 02:52 AM
  #79  
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Sik!! I think I'm going to do the same thing tomorrow. How did you so it?

Originally Posted by Dark KniGht
i always hated the 'grid' parts of our tail lights.
so i killed 'em.


 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 03:40 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by CondeNast78
Daaaaaaaaaaamn Joe! That install looks super clean, it flies huh...
Hell yeah it does 403 WHP and 364 ft/lbs of TQ

Still got some issues to work out, but all things said... I love it


Someday I'll get around to posting up a big thread with pictures and stuff
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #81  
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From: Amishville, PA
How to Kill the Grid

Originally Posted by iseechriss
Sik!! I think I'm going to do the same thing tomorrow. How did you so it?


This is how i did it:
1. remove your tail lights.
2. remove the plastic cap behind the led section.
3. locate the two identical little white jumpers on the top corners of the circuit board.
4. remove the screw that holds the circuit board in place. [so you can get at the jumpers a bit easier]
5. the jumper you are going to want to remove is always to the same side of the board as the grid is.
6. using a skinny flathead screwdriver, push down and out on the jumper and it will unclip. [its a bit tricky but it'll go eventually]
7. replace the lights and remaining panels and your done.

hope this helps.

caution: make sure to remove the jumper to the grid side or you'll end up with only grid. aaaahhhh


enjoy
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 11:42 AM
  #82  
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what if you do accidentally remove the wrong side of the jumper to where only the grids work is it an easy fix? im thinking about doing this today?? how long did it take you?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 02:00 PM
  #83  
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From: Othello, WA
Wash, clay, waxed it on tuesday morning, drove it today and its drizzling outside my office...WTF...Its suppossed to be 70 and clear today
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 05:37 PM
  #84  
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m56
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Made a thread and posted up pictures in the FI section.
Definitely gonna check out that kill the grid mod you guys are talking about... thats always annoyed me.

https://g35driver.com/forums/forced-...ml#post4579405
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 05:39 PM
  #85  
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painted brake calipers RED, now im about to go "KILL THE GRID"
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 06:25 PM
  #86  
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got my Double Din in the mail today, picked up a harness from best buy to keep the steering wheel controls....also picked up a wiring harness from car toys....not looking forward to this at all
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 10:04 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by tyeayo
got my Double Din in the mail today, picked up a harness from best buy to keep the steering wheel controls....also picked up a wiring harness from car toys....not looking forward to this at all
go to radio shack and get bigger (physically) resistors. the ones you get with the module are small, flimsy and can easily burn up when you solder them in. also, i recommend crimping them in instead of soldering (unless you're good at soldering). you can use standard butt connectors, just cut them in half and remove the plastic from them. i soldered mine the first time but one broke from the wires moving during install and i couldn't figure out why i couldn't program it. i pulled it back apart, unsoldered them and crimped in all new ones. no problems since. if you put the butt connector right up against the resistor, it will support it so you don't have to worry about it breaking from flexing or vibrations.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 10:05 PM
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got a call back from beshoff infiniti dealer, and im getting a new engine! thankfully i was still under warranty.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2009 | 11:28 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by djSLiM
go to radio shack and get bigger (physically) resistors. the ones you get with the module are small, flimsy and can easily burn up when you solder them in. also, i recommend crimping them in instead of soldering (unless you're good at soldering). you can use standard butt connectors, just cut them in half and remove the plastic from them. i soldered mine the first time but one broke from the wires moving during install and i couldn't figure out why i couldn't program it. i pulled it back apart, unsoldered them and crimped in all new ones. no problems since. if you put the butt connector right up against the resistor, it will support it so you don't have to worry about it breaking from flexing or vibrations.
I think I am gonna let best buy do the steering wheel controls...I had enough of a headache doing the double din.....quick question...my volume is WAY low....even when I turn it all the way up it is not very loud....I used the wiring harness that has the two sets of RCA's.....I plugges them into the RCA inputs I have on the back of my headunit....any help would be appreciated
 
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Old Sep 25, 2009 | 12:29 AM
  #90  
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From: Puyallup, WA
Originally Posted by tyeayo
I think I am gonna let best buy do the steering wheel controls...I had enough of a headache doing the double din.....quick question...my volume is WAY low....even when I turn it all the way up it is not very loud....I used the wiring harness that has the two sets of RCA's.....I plugges them into the RCA inputs I have on the back of my headunit....any help would be appreciated
did your car have a stock bose headunit?
 
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