Quadcam,

Which OBDII san tool do you have? I didn't know they could measure ECM control sensor input. I think I want an OBDII scan tool like yours if it's a stand alone unit. (I'm not big on driving around with my laptop on the consule or in the passangers seat.)

How much time did you spend monitoring the IATs with your OBDII scan tool?

How many driving or test "cycles" did you observe?

What were the ambient temperatures during your test(s)?

Was the A/C on when you obtained your data?

What were the IAT's heat up and cool down times?

At what throttle position(s) did you obtain your data?

Do you have any other details you can share with us?


During our 40+ hours of real world testing we also found the stock air case was slower to heat up but conversely it was much slower to cool off for a given throttle position (mass air flow rate) than the uninsulated Stillen CAI. The insulated Stillen enclosure heated up much slower than the stock aircase and cooled down much faster.

The unprotected, uninsulated Popcharger velocity ring heated up to higher levels very quickly and stayed hot due to it's close proximity to the exhaust manifold. Insulating the back of the Popcharger's velocity helped a bunch. In fact we were able to get it's temp within 15F of the insulated Stillen CAI at higher speed (60-80mph) crusing conditions. However the cooldown rate never matched Stillen's.

 

new if we could just get a DIY on how to properly insulate, where to insulate, and how to seal off the Stillen's open areas. =)

 

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all this great information. I have a Pocketlogger from my Mitsu Eclipse GSX. It reads obdII in my G so I'm going to use it to datalog my airbox with different mods. I still have the box power duct removed with my custom heat gasket. I'm gonna log airflow, temps, timing, rpm & speed for a week then put the stock power duck back on and do the same. Maybe I'll try the insulatiion mod also after all is complete. Thanks again everyone for tons of great info, I'll post whatever I log.

Steven

 

Dave O,

I don't recall all the info nor was I as thorough as you'd like me to be.

The OBDII tool is called "DynoScan." It is an application for the Palm OS.

http://www.auterraweb.com/

 

I relogged everything yesterday (upper 80s, high humidity) and I'm still getting the same data as I orginally did before. I forgot to mention that I used black pipe insulation to form an insulating ring around the airbox opening. At speed, intake air temps are the same as stock. At a stop they're 8-15 degree warmer. Within a few seconds of acceleration from a stop, the air temps drop quickly. Recorded ignition advance is no worse than stock and often time it's better at WOT in the higher rpms. I've noticed absolutely no negative changes in drivability with the duct removed and believe me, I've swapped between the two setup quite a few times since my initial posting. If anything, the car feels a bit more responsive, but that may be just because the car sounds so much better.

Recently one night with wife and father in the car, I manually shifted through gears 1, 2, and 3 at 6000rpms getting on the highway, my father says, "what did you do to the car? It's so much louder. Did you add an exhaust?" and my wife said, "what did you buy now?"

 

Here are a few pictures that may be of interest to some.

The first picture was taken at 75mph after 15 minutes of driving. The ambient temp around 69-70F in the sun.

The second picture is in my driveway after 4 minutes of idling when the TechTom temp stablized. The full shade and wet grass lowered the ambient temp.

The third is of my modified, insulated and sealed intake system.

The forth is my friends uninsulated Stillen CAI after 3 minutes idling with AC
on.

The last is my car after 3 minutes idling with AC on.

All TechTom displays had stablized at the temp shown when the picture was taken.

 

Can this be done on a 2005 or is the intake box different? ie Power Duct?

 

Gting, of course it can be done on an 05. I haven't taken mine off yet but I really don't think the "power duct" works. Where is it getting it's air from? It's just a plastic piece which covers up more of the filter and reduces intake noise.

 

I personally have no idea if it makes more power or not on a 2005 considering the 2005 6spd has a 7200 fuel Cut and breathes better up top than past years. I am going to take a look tomorrow to double check if the design is the same as the older ones.

 

Well I took off the power duct off my Z-tube/K&N filter combo and the car now screams above 5000rpm. I set off a car alarm flooring it in 1st gear driving by a hospital parking lot... The timing does not feel like it's being retarded, the car now pulls very hard to redline compared to the stock intake setup. The powerduct was so easy to take off, you don't even need a flathead screwdriver, a pencil will work fine...

 

Hi again,
I datalogged with and without the duct, using my magical heatblocking gasket etc etc…so far the numbers are nothing to boast about, in fact as stated earlier the @idle temps are tad higher.

OK here’s my 2 cents: this power duct does something, it might not be a “power duct” but it may be an air strengthener or some sore of velocity stack... I know certain MAFS require honeycombs to straighten the air as it passes the MAF…when I have the duct off, my throttle response is softer, the car revs more freely and louder, but the TQ that you feel from the start is less. I’m going to play w/ different things (create different types of ducts) just out of my own tinkering curiosity, but for the most part I think we get better performance with the duct installed.

BTW- when i had the duct off, i dremeled the sides, just before the crease, to increase the air flow with the duct removed. I'll post pics. I'm gonna keep tinkering with this and datalogging also.

 

Ya it took 2 seconds. just push the middle of the tabs. Pop em off. And the power duct comes right off.

 

A quick note about #3: electrical resistance increases linearly with temperature, but the increase could possibly decrease timing (not certain how the IAT sensor works).

 

If you'll refer to page EC-186 of the 2004.5 Coupe's factory service manual you'll be able to view the acceptable resistance vs. temperature values -drawing #SEF012P.

 

Instead of datalogging all day why not just test it at the track?