JIC Magic BULLETT Y-Pipe (& Fujitsubo Legalis-R Exhaust)
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 68
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From: Southeast MI
JIC Magic BULLETT Y-Pipe (& Fujitsubo Legalis-R Exhaust)
I just installed a JIC Magic BULLETT Y-pipe and Fujitsubo Legalis-R Exhaust system. Since there is a lot of positive feedbacks concerning the Fujitsubo system, this review is mainly of the JIC Y-pipe.
First of all, let me say that the people at JIC were very cooperative. When doing research to decide which Y-pipe to use, I realized that I didn’t have certain bits of information concerning the JIC system, like what material it was made out of, or its inlet and outlet diameters. So, I e-mailed JIC directly with these questions. They responded the next day with answers, and a few helpful pics as well. Very professional and informative, plus a quick response time. An “A+” in my book for customer service.
Parts in the Box (For Y-pipe):
- JIC Magic BULLETT Y-pipe
- 6 x 14mm bolts with nuts (hexavalent-plated)
- 2 x 60mm gaskets
- 1 x 80mm gasket
Parts in Box (For Exhaust system):
- Fujitsubo Legalis-R Mid-pipe
- Fujitsubo Legalis-R Muffler
- 1 x gasket, for mid-pipe-to Y-pipe mating (~60mm?)
- 1 x steel O-ring, for mid-pipe-to-muffler mating
- 4 x 14mm bolts with nuts (hexavalent-plated)
- 1 x 10mm bolt with nut (hexavalent-plated), for ground wire strap
- Instructions & sticker
Tools Required (For both Y-pipe & exhaust):
- Ratchet and/or breaker bar with:
o 14mm socket (Recommended: Deep Well Socket & Regular also)
o 10mm socket (regular depth is adequate)
- 14mm & 10mm open-end/close-end wrench
- Ratchet extensions & a universal joint (HIGHLY recommended)
- Torque wrench (From 30 Nm to 60 Nm Range)
- WD40
- Some type of pipe/extension for ratchet/breaker bar. Used to apply more torque for undoing old nuts/bolts. Recommended
Ease of Installation:
It took a friend and me approximately two hours to remove the OEM exhaust system and then install the JIC/Fujitsubo system into my car (in total). I did not weigh it, but the JIC Y-pipe is considerably lighter than the OEM Y-pipe. At first I was concerned about which way to properly install the JIC Y-pipe into the car (i.e. which side is the right side and which is the left side). However, the OEM catalytic converter mating flanges are angled slightly inward and tilted sideways. JIC took this into account when designing the Y-pipe, so there is ONLY one way to properly install it. Basically, it’s impossible to screw this up. Then, we installed the Fujitsubo exhaust system. Both systems are designed so well for fit that they both are the same length as their OEM counterparts, meaning that the JIC was the exact same length as the OEM Y-pipe, and the Fujitsubo was (of course) a perfect fit as well. Everything mated up cleanly, with no fitment issues with one another, or with hitting anything on the vehicle.
Since the outlet pipe of the Y-pipe is 80mm, and the Fujitsubo mid-pipe inlet is 76.3mm, I chose to use the gasket from the JIC set, versus the gasket from the Fujitsubo set, for better flow. Plus, the gasket from the Fujitsubo set is designed to mate with the OEM Y-pipe, meaning that it is very constricting.
The only issue was that, due to the radical angle of the JIC Y-pipe, both of the inside nuts for the inlet pipe flanges (the ones that attach to the catalytic converters) are hard to get a socket onto. Even though these two bolts should be torqued to spec, we had to resort to “hand-torquing” (i.e. guessing) them both with a 14mm open-ended wrench. Though, if we had had a universal socket extension, we probably could have used a ratchet/torque wrench (thusly why I recommended one above).
After installing it all, we started the vehicle up to check for any leaks (we were in a pit, so my friend stood underneath the vehicle). We let it idle for a minute or two, and found no leaks, so cleaned up, and took it for a drive!
Performance Impressions:
I did not do a dyno run before I installed it, so I cannot say clearly the performance gains. The sound is good (typical Fuji), and nothing rattles under heavy use or clutch release. Since the exhaust system flows better now, low-end torque (at idle) is down slightly, so it takes a few more RPM’s to engage the clutch. Actually, I have found this to make the vehicle more drivable at low speeds, especially during traffic jams, etc., because the vehicle does not lurch so much anymore. I have notice (via the butt-dyno) that the hp gain REALLY shows itself after about 5k RPM’s with this new exhaust install, versus the OEM parts.
Conclusions:
Overall, I am extremely happy with this upgrade, and feel that the JIC system was totally worth it. For $419 shipped, the price was very reasonable, and combined with JIC’s very good customer support, and the superb fit, it was a great deal. Plus, it was in stock! Always a questionable thing nowadays with G35 exhaust systems.
I hope this helps. If there are any questions about this, please let me know.
First of all, let me say that the people at JIC were very cooperative. When doing research to decide which Y-pipe to use, I realized that I didn’t have certain bits of information concerning the JIC system, like what material it was made out of, or its inlet and outlet diameters. So, I e-mailed JIC directly with these questions. They responded the next day with answers, and a few helpful pics as well. Very professional and informative, plus a quick response time. An “A+” in my book for customer service.
Parts in the Box (For Y-pipe):
- JIC Magic BULLETT Y-pipe
- 6 x 14mm bolts with nuts (hexavalent-plated)
- 2 x 60mm gaskets
- 1 x 80mm gasket
Parts in Box (For Exhaust system):
- Fujitsubo Legalis-R Mid-pipe
- Fujitsubo Legalis-R Muffler
- 1 x gasket, for mid-pipe-to Y-pipe mating (~60mm?)
- 1 x steel O-ring, for mid-pipe-to-muffler mating
- 4 x 14mm bolts with nuts (hexavalent-plated)
- 1 x 10mm bolt with nut (hexavalent-plated), for ground wire strap
- Instructions & sticker
Tools Required (For both Y-pipe & exhaust):
- Ratchet and/or breaker bar with:
o 14mm socket (Recommended: Deep Well Socket & Regular also)
o 10mm socket (regular depth is adequate)
- 14mm & 10mm open-end/close-end wrench
- Ratchet extensions & a universal joint (HIGHLY recommended)
- Torque wrench (From 30 Nm to 60 Nm Range)
- WD40
- Some type of pipe/extension for ratchet/breaker bar. Used to apply more torque for undoing old nuts/bolts. Recommended
Ease of Installation:
It took a friend and me approximately two hours to remove the OEM exhaust system and then install the JIC/Fujitsubo system into my car (in total). I did not weigh it, but the JIC Y-pipe is considerably lighter than the OEM Y-pipe. At first I was concerned about which way to properly install the JIC Y-pipe into the car (i.e. which side is the right side and which is the left side). However, the OEM catalytic converter mating flanges are angled slightly inward and tilted sideways. JIC took this into account when designing the Y-pipe, so there is ONLY one way to properly install it. Basically, it’s impossible to screw this up. Then, we installed the Fujitsubo exhaust system. Both systems are designed so well for fit that they both are the same length as their OEM counterparts, meaning that the JIC was the exact same length as the OEM Y-pipe, and the Fujitsubo was (of course) a perfect fit as well. Everything mated up cleanly, with no fitment issues with one another, or with hitting anything on the vehicle.
Since the outlet pipe of the Y-pipe is 80mm, and the Fujitsubo mid-pipe inlet is 76.3mm, I chose to use the gasket from the JIC set, versus the gasket from the Fujitsubo set, for better flow. Plus, the gasket from the Fujitsubo set is designed to mate with the OEM Y-pipe, meaning that it is very constricting.
The only issue was that, due to the radical angle of the JIC Y-pipe, both of the inside nuts for the inlet pipe flanges (the ones that attach to the catalytic converters) are hard to get a socket onto. Even though these two bolts should be torqued to spec, we had to resort to “hand-torquing” (i.e. guessing) them both with a 14mm open-ended wrench. Though, if we had had a universal socket extension, we probably could have used a ratchet/torque wrench (thusly why I recommended one above).
After installing it all, we started the vehicle up to check for any leaks (we were in a pit, so my friend stood underneath the vehicle). We let it idle for a minute or two, and found no leaks, so cleaned up, and took it for a drive!
Performance Impressions:
I did not do a dyno run before I installed it, so I cannot say clearly the performance gains. The sound is good (typical Fuji), and nothing rattles under heavy use or clutch release. Since the exhaust system flows better now, low-end torque (at idle) is down slightly, so it takes a few more RPM’s to engage the clutch. Actually, I have found this to make the vehicle more drivable at low speeds, especially during traffic jams, etc., because the vehicle does not lurch so much anymore. I have notice (via the butt-dyno) that the hp gain REALLY shows itself after about 5k RPM’s with this new exhaust install, versus the OEM parts.
Conclusions:
Overall, I am extremely happy with this upgrade, and feel that the JIC system was totally worth it. For $419 shipped, the price was very reasonable, and combined with JIC’s very good customer support, and the superb fit, it was a great deal. Plus, it was in stock! Always a questionable thing nowadays with G35 exhaust systems.
I hope this helps. If there are any questions about this, please let me know.
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Registered User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 68
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From: Southeast MI
Thanks for the compliment! (It's the engineer in me...
)
As to answer your question, there were three reasons why I chose the JIC over the Fujitsubo:
1.) Price. Shipped from HopUp racing, it was still about $30 cheaper than the Fuji Y-pipe. JIC is a well-respected name, so I figured the fit & finish would be equal to that of the Fuji. According to nissanpreformanceparts on their website (Their opinion), it had said it was, so I decided to chance it.
2.) Design: I feel that the design (due to its tendency to allow flow), would be equal to the Fuji in hp gains, if not better. My feeling now is that it probably does equal the Fuji, but the additional hp to the powerband is at the higher end, wheras the Fuji's is probably all around.. (a guess only)
3.) Availability. I had already *HUNTED* seriously for the Fuji exhaust (NOBODY had one except for NPP). I was tired of searching, and HopUp Racing had the Y-pipe in stock. Problem solved.
4.) (I know I said "3", but this one is kinda unofficial) Since price was a main motivator for me, I made sure to pay attention to the pipe diameters of the Y-pipe to the exhaust system. Of course both the Fuji Y-pipe and exhaust are the same (76.3mm), but when I started looking at less expensive Y-pipes, I paid particular attention to the outlet diameters. The JIC has an outlet diameter of 80mm, which is only 3.4mm (~1/8") different from the Fuji diameter, so I felt confident that it would mate up correctly, without need of a reducer, or any sealing issues. So far it's been great!
Hope that helps. Sorry again for the long explanation. If you're looking for an exhaust systerm right now, PM me, I have a benchmark table with lots of information I created on it for ALL of the exhaust systems available for the Coupe (even JDM ones), including materials, part numbers, pipe diameters, etc. Just PM me with an E-mail address.
)As to answer your question, there were three reasons why I chose the JIC over the Fujitsubo:
1.) Price. Shipped from HopUp racing, it was still about $30 cheaper than the Fuji Y-pipe. JIC is a well-respected name, so I figured the fit & finish would be equal to that of the Fuji. According to nissanpreformanceparts on their website (Their opinion), it had said it was, so I decided to chance it.
2.) Design: I feel that the design (due to its tendency to allow flow), would be equal to the Fuji in hp gains, if not better. My feeling now is that it probably does equal the Fuji, but the additional hp to the powerband is at the higher end, wheras the Fuji's is probably all around.. (a guess only)
3.) Availability. I had already *HUNTED* seriously for the Fuji exhaust (NOBODY had one except for NPP). I was tired of searching, and HopUp Racing had the Y-pipe in stock. Problem solved.
4.) (I know I said "3", but this one is kinda unofficial) Since price was a main motivator for me, I made sure to pay attention to the pipe diameters of the Y-pipe to the exhaust system. Of course both the Fuji Y-pipe and exhaust are the same (76.3mm), but when I started looking at less expensive Y-pipes, I paid particular attention to the outlet diameters. The JIC has an outlet diameter of 80mm, which is only 3.4mm (~1/8") different from the Fuji diameter, so I felt confident that it would mate up correctly, without need of a reducer, or any sealing issues. So far it's been great!
Hope that helps. Sorry again for the long explanation. If you're looking for an exhaust systerm right now, PM me, I have a benchmark table with lots of information I created on it for ALL of the exhaust systems available for the Coupe (even JDM ones), including materials, part numbers, pipe diameters, etc. Just PM me with an E-mail address.
Id like to add that the gaskets provided with the JIC are paper. Therefore you'd have to use gasket sealant with the paper gaskets to prevent leakage. The paper ones burn through. Or you could just use steel ones.
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