Hmm...so should I jack it with the factory jack and leave the metal thingy on the factory jack? With no grooves on my jack stands, I don't trust it holding on the metal thingy. Below is a picture of a forum member's car (I believed G35_TX ?). The green area I believed is the garage point for the rear. I've updated the jack point diagram with green circle in my previous post. I don't think I should jack up the whole rear for this spring installation but I don't know what other jack points can I use for the rear. Can anyone shed some light? I can't use the control arms on the picture obviously since I am doing the springs.

If I would to jack up the rear passenger wheel, which of the 3 other wheels do I have to chock it?

 

My attempt on the rear coupe spring failed today. Hope I didn't messed up anything but after about 2.5 hours, it's back the way it was. I am a newbie huh?

First I got the car jacked up using factory jack on the metal thingy. Then I also have the hydralic jack with hockey puck cushioning under the control arm. Then I chocked both front wheels. Took the rear wheel off just to find out I don't have a 17mm socket for the nut on the blue arrow below.



Then undo everything, went to Sears and picked up a 17mm socket. Came back to garage and jacked up everything once again. How in the world do you loosen that 17mm bolt? That thing must have been air impact gunned in so hard last time by the person who installed the 350z springs. I tried using crescent wrench on one end and then 17mm socket on the other. It's stiff as a rock. I've also use the hydralic jack with a hockey puck cushion pushing up the control arm a little so make sure I don't break anything when I loosening the bolt. I tried just using my gorilla bar with extensions, with no extensions, etc. Tried just gorilla bar on the nut without crescent wrench on the other end, still no luck. Here's the end result of my 3/8 extension and 1/2 socket to 3/8 extension. Both were TWISTED from trying to loosen the bolt. I hope I didn't do any damage and everything seems fine, the control arm, etc. What should I do? Bring it to the shops? Try getting air impact gun?



Also, if I ever get beyond the first bolt, what about the second bolt (green arrow)? How do you torque it at that angle? Do you also have to loosen it with a crescent wrench behind it?



So frustrated today and it was so hot.

 

Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble. I did not need an impact wrench at all and I also had my first suspension swap done at a shop. If it is on too tight, try some WD40 or maybe try using a torque wrench to get more leverage on the 17mm bolt. The longer handle will give you much more leverage although I think you tried this w/ the gorilla bar.

For the rear green bolt, I believe I was able to get plenty of leverage w/ the car jacked up. Overall, I didn't have any issues at all w/ the bolts being too tight. There is no bolt on the other end of the green one from what I recall.

Last thing...you sure you're not turning the wrench the wrong way? "righty tighty, lefty loosey" is how I remember.

 

I have plenty of leverage. I should of try some wd40. Anyway, I think I am ready to go back to stock springs. After having the z springs for a month, the ride is just too punishing on the z springs. The stock shocks just can't keep up with the z springs. Maybe if it was dropped with coupe springs it might be better. Lately, I've been carrying passengers in the back and the ride is just too stiff and over bumps in nyc here, it just buckles. That plus when I took the tire off today, I can see the inner tire started to wear out a little more due to negative camber. I just think it's not worth the time and hassle to correct the issue. There's also other things in life going on that I need to focus more time on so more than likely I will go back to stock unless I find reasons otherwise. It's been a cool month of dropped look though.

 

mikeee2,

I am really sorry to hear about all of your troubles. I know what your going through. It sucks when so many others have a mod that works great but for you it just doesn't. I had a similar experience with my Stillen exhaust.

I have been following your saga peripherally so excuse me if my question has already been answered, did you take your car to another alignment shop to try and get the rear camber closer to spec? Maybe the shop you originally used just isn't very good?

 

Dang you sure tristed that extention. So If I read right you did try socket directly on the nut, no extention's and it still wouldn't budge, right? If that's the case you'll need a longer breaker bar or try getting a impact gun.

Who did the Z spring install? If a shop did, I'd make them break it free.

 

I didn't try it without extension. My 17mm socket was a 3/8 and my wrenches were 1/2. Sorry, you read it right but I wrote it wrong on the previous post. Both of the 3/8 to 1/2 extensions were torn and twisted. I just gave up afterward. Yeah, a shop did the install. It's alrite. I've pretty much decided to go back to stock. I do appreciate all your help though.

Not that I will try the coupe springs again, just out of curiousity, did you just loosen it on one side, or do you need to hold the bolt on the other end with the crescent wrench.

 

Then again, most of the people that had the mods with minimal troubles were mostly the rwd folks. A new alignment shop might be able to correct some of the cambers but nothing can fix the front since there are no aftermarket shocks for the X. I just don't like the punishing ride in the front and the rear as well with passengers loaded. I do appreciate all the help I've gotten in the past few months helping me with the springs though.

 

In all the umpteen time's I've loosened everything to put a different setup on the car, the rear lower arm nut (green arrow) has alway's broken free without having to hold a wrench on the bolt head on the other side. Of course turing that bolt head on the other side is what changes your toe.

 

so to summarize, the best combo is revised (04.5+) Z springs and struts up front, and g coupe springs in back with sedan sport struts.

this should give the ideal look with a ride that is similar to a stock g sedan equipped with sport suspension, a lil stiffer, but handles a little better too?

what would happen if i got Z springs (revised or unrevised) and paired them with g sedan sport struts up front?

 

You will be fine. That is what I have on my car (along with 04 coupe springs and sedan sport shocks on the rear). The Z front spring rate is the same as sedan sport susp. springs (revised or unrevised doesn't matter on the fronts). See this thread for the spring rates:

https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension/65190-g35-350z-aftermarket-coilover-springs-shocks-spec-s-w-updates.html

 

you gotta go with 1/2" sockets when using 1/2" breaker bars or ratchets... I did my entire rear end by myself in less than an hour....hardest part was realigning the bolt indicated by the blue arrow... torqued everything back to spec and lowered the car...

 

thanks! the sport struts save my life hah, that means i can just go w/ z springs up front and coupe springs in the rear. how will the handling be affected?

 

It will ride the same but corner a little better (at least that is what I experienced). Just be sure you get the right coupe springs if you are keeping your sedan sport shocks. With sedan sport shocks you want rear coupe springs with the lower 342 spring rate (the same spring rate as the rear sedan sport springs). Any coupe with OEM 19's has rear springs with a rate of 427 (too much for the sedan sport shocks).

 

thans a bunch jameyb

anyone have problems bottoming out because of the shorter springs? i doubt it but just wanna make sure