Cool kit, even has the security torx bits. All I keep in my car is a 10mm wrench. Yesterday replaced the valve covers and spark plugs all with a single 10mm socket and a spark plug socket.

 

Those look like some fun roads to drive

 

^^^Car sounds great Urban!

 

Looks great! Would highly recommend a stainless T clamp over a hose clamp. Hose clamps don't do constant tension well. Z1 motorsports sells individual ones.

 

Thanks! Just z tube and spacer. I'll possibly buy a motordyne TDX2 or shockwave after student loans are paid off... can't reasonably upgrade until then.

There is a reason I cut and pasted, few and far between haha. Pennsylvania has some really cool roads around the NuClear plants.

What kind of clamp is it?

 

My coupe has been on stands for about 4 months now (sad face) because I got her with 65k, and knew she had lots of deferred maintenance issues. Been slowly weekending my way down a list when weather allowed: Replaced all of the oil cooler and upper/lower pan seals chasing a demon leak since I got it (it was cooler and upper, ugh). Replaced all brakes/rotors, bushings, and ball joints, and replaced oil/trans/diff fluids, belt, sparks, and a few sensors. Was happy to take her for a spin this weekend, but found/fixed another problem.

Clutch pedal felt mushy even compared to my old nissan pickup, and occasionally slow to rebound when hot. I should have taken pics, but my fluid was DIRRRRTY. It looked a bit past its prime up top, but when I bled into a clear container it was all black as night (!!!). So I took a few hours to replace my clutch master and slave cyl (Duralast, I know...but limited lifetime) and threw some Braided line on the soft bits. Copped an unopened can of GTR Brake Fluid for cheap (adds 5HP right?) from a local import group member with a pretty sweet 300zx.

When I was done, I knocked the pollen off and took her on a long drive on some back roads and feel and engagement was much better...handled every downshift like new. Many grins were had and hopefully many more to come.

 

Just a generic hose clamp. 6mm head with Phillips inset or whatever you want to call it.

 

How long did it take you and did you go oem or maxima? I am due for this task.

 

Oh and I installed a Megan Racing Catback Exhaust. Previous owner had some kind of silencer put in to muffle the sound some. It actually works pretty well.

 

Why are you due? Oil leak, or oil in the spark plug tubes?

I bit the bullet and went with ebay valve covers. Saved over $300. They were a perfect fit so we'll see how the seals hold up. I found no leaks in any of my spark plugs so I still have a set of good oem ones. It literally took me all day with some breaks between and I took my time taking pictures of details so I didn't miss anything. When I would take a hose off, I'd put tape around the hose and the location it went to with matching numbers on the tape so I didn't connect a wrong hose. Pulled most of the wiring harness out and had to jack the car up to remove one harness from the ac compressor or condenser? I'd recommend buying new pcv hoses from z1 because I cracked two of them and had a loud air leak I had to find the next day. If I had to do it again, I could probably have it done in about 4 hrs

 

It was also scary how tight the spark plugs were. Had me worried about stripping the threads. Made some squeak and creaking noises. So please use a torque wrench when installing them. I also used some anti seize. I've heard anti seize can mess with the torque setting?

 

If you're ever concerned about how lubricants including anti-seize, threadlocker, etc will affect a fastener you do what's called a "dry test" by installing the fastener to proper torque without any lubricant. Then take a sharpie and make a match mark across the bolt face onto the clamping surface as a reference mark, remove the bolt, apply whatever lubricant you are using then reinstall the bolt and tighten it down till the match marks line up.

There can also be an engineered spec for actual torque values listed. You can't perform this kind of work with a torque-to-yield fastener unfortunately so you just determine metal type and subtract 25% for threadlocker and 35% for anti-seize.

For most spark plug applications the torque spec will be a range of values, for example the G35 is 15-21 ft/lbs and you can just use the LOW end of the range when using anti-seize.

The only time I've ever seen a problem with lubricant though is on very LARGE bolts, we were mating the coupling onto an 18 Liter Caterpillar diesel to install the generator and it used 1 1/4 bolts on the output shaft, torque multipliers were properly set at 450 ft/lbs and the directions clearly stated to use loctite 271 but they didn't account for the reduction needed for lube and we ruined the first power coupling... whoops.

I have NEVER had an issue with smaller auto fasteners like on cars/trucks, I didn't even know about torque reduction charts until about 5 years ago when we had the problem with that 500kW generator.

 

Damn, 450 ft lbs?!

My only concern was that the anti seize could possibly cause the spark plugs to lose it's torque and potentially come loose after a couple years

 

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-n...ut-spark-plugs

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs

1. Anti-seize

NGK spark plugs feature what is known as trivalent plating. This silver-or-chrome colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without the use of anti-seize. NGK tech support has received a number of tech calls from installers who have over-tightened spark plugs because of the use of anti-seize. Anti-seize compound can act as a lubricant altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage.

2. Corona stain

Corona stain is observed as a light brown or tan discoloration above the hex (located on the ceramic body of the spark plug). Corona stain is created by oil or dirt particles surrounding the spark plug. Spark plugs create a high amount of static electricity as they fire, attracting these particles to the exposed ceramic between the plug boot and the hex. Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or broken seals inside the spark plug.

3. Gapping fine-wire spark plugs

In the late 1980s, when fine-wire spark plugs first appeared, installers used incorrect gap tools and procedures resulting in bent or broken-off firing electrodes. As a result, many people assumed that one cannot adjust the gap on a precious metal plug. While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are instances where the gap requires modification. NGK recommends a wire-style or feeler gage gap tool, which can adjust the gap without prying against the center electrode. NGK also recommends adjusting the gap no more than +/- 0.008” from the preset gap.

4. Torque

Torque is critical in the plug’s ability to dissipate heat and perform properly. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommended torque specification. An under-torqued spark plug can lead to excessive vibration and improper heat dissipation, causing spark plug and/or engine damage. An over-torqued spark plug may cause thread damage or breakage, or compromise internal seals within the spark plug, leading to improper heat dissipation or exhaust gas blow-by.

5.“Copper plugs”

“Copper spark plugs” is a term mistakenly used for a standard material spark plug. A standard material spark plug traditionally uses a nickel-alloy outer material fused to a copper core. Almost all spark plugs use a copper core center to conduct the electricity, jump the gap, and promote heat dissipation. However, as an outer electrode material, copper would not be a good choice, as it is soft and has a low melting point (resulting in a plug that would last minutes, not miles). Nearly all NGK spark plugs, including precious metals iridium and platinum, have a copper core. When one talks in terms of nickel alloys, platinum and iridium, one is referring to its durability, or how long a spark plug will last before it needs to be replaced. However, when one talks about copper, he or she is referring to its ability to conduct electricity that is needed to fire across the gap and ignite the air-fuel mixture.

 

I forgot to torque the spark plugs on an old motorcycle of mine. It made a "pumping sound" at all RPMs that was pretty funny. It was fine after torquing them down.

Thanks for the reduce by 25% advice. That's insane! But torque is friction based so it makes sense. 20% with loc tite.

G repair guy, I admire your care for your car. I just don't have the time for that level of work.