What did you do to the G today?
#9632
05-04-2019, 08:36 AM
Originally Posted by Scorpi0
CSW, are those muffler tips bigger than the OEM? If so, can u give us a shot of it from the rear?
Originally Posted by cswlightning
G35 coupe, this used to be an HKS rep exhaust before every component was replaced at a muffler shop. The 11386 is after the flex pipes replacing the Chinese "resonators". It made the exhaust 100% better and livable for a highway daily, but I wanted more quiet, so I upgraded the China mufflers to larger volume straight through China mufflers branded "totalflow" for $30 a side plus $100 labor including welding in new flex pipes. Sounds nice and quiet unless WOT, but deeper and throatier than stock at all RPMs. No highway drone to speak of, at least compared to the original HKS rep.
With the un resonated muffler section in the back, there is still drone at high load and low RPM in top gears, but otherwise there is none! Totally worth the $165 installed.
Drone much more minimal then when it was just the H pipe from eBay and when I tried to put fiberglass packs in there as replacements. X pipe FTMFW.
So all in on this HKS I'm $550
. If only I could've found a non rusty replacement for my OE one when I sold the Motordyne. My damn C pipe was corroded and my rear flange was toast on the Muffler and midpipe sections :cry:.This set up drones less than the Motordyne setup did (auto trans). I'm still butthurt Tony didn't mention that on his listing.
Originally Posted by jparker7269
So is your G a coupe or sedan and a 35 or 37? Did you remove the 8" extension and cut the other length out and clamp it in or have a shop do it and weld it in? I have the HKS knockoff my self and really like it but does get a little droney at certain loads.
IM FINALLY HAPPY WITH THIS WOOOOOOOO.
#9634
05-04-2019, 11:35 AM
#9635
05-04-2019, 01:12 PM
#9637
05-04-2019, 11:01 PM
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#9639
05-05-2019, 01:16 PM
#9641
05-05-2019, 08:46 PM
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cswlightning (05-07-2019)
#9642
05-06-2019, 11:28 AM
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Then use a large diameter holesaw to hog out the rubber in the middle, try to match the holesaw to remove as much rubber as possible. The outer shell/race of the bushing is aluminum so it's easy to cut, just take a sawzall and score it in a couple places about 1/2" apart, then use a hammer and flat blade screwdriver to knock that 1/4" wide piece out. From that point it just rolls up on itself easily with the hammer/screwdriver.
I've done it one time with the Z1 Motorsports bushing press and twice using the holesaw/sawzall method, cutting it out is 10x easier AND faster.
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Pbfoot (05-06-2019)
#9643
05-06-2019, 12:40 PM
The old bushing is SUPER easy to remove (after you have the differential out which is pretty easy to remove). Remove muffler, unbolt CV axles, unbolt propeller shaft, remove differential.
Then use a large diameter holesaw to hog out the rubber in the middle, try to match the holesaw to remove as much rubber as possible. The outer shell/race of the bushing is aluminum so it's easy to cut, just take a sawzall and score it in a couple places about 1/2" apart, then use a hammer and flat blade screwdriver to knock that 1/4" wide piece out. From that point it just rolls up on itself easily with the hammer/screwdriver.
I've done it one time with the Z1 Motorsports bushing press and twice using the holesaw/sawzall method, cutting it out is 10x easier AND faster.
Then use a large diameter holesaw to hog out the rubber in the middle, try to match the holesaw to remove as much rubber as possible. The outer shell/race of the bushing is aluminum so it's easy to cut, just take a sawzall and score it in a couple places about 1/2" apart, then use a hammer and flat blade screwdriver to knock that 1/4" wide piece out. From that point it just rolls up on itself easily with the hammer/screwdriver.
I've done it one time with the Z1 Motorsports bushing press and twice using the holesaw/sawzall method, cutting it out is 10x easier AND faster.
#9644
05-06-2019, 10:19 PM
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Washington State
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#9645
05-06-2019, 11:35 PM