Looks gorgeous, don't see a lot of the Twilight Blue coupes on here so thanks for sharing.

 

So I’ve decided I’m gonna buy another motor and build it for either turbo or supercharger and nitrous. Any suggestions on what’s best? Like pistons, heads, cams etc. ??? And should I buy a revup engine or non revup. I currently have 04 non revup

 

I'd buy 2 motors, one for the front and one for the back. I'd hit the front with a supercharger, the rear with twin turb's then smash all that **** with a cool 500 shot of NAAAAAAAAASSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

So my tail light tint I did the other day has already started peeling back at the edges. It reminded me what a pain in the aśś vinyl is.

 

^It's a sign from the universe it was a bad idea in the first place. With all the idiot distracted drivers on the roads these days I want my tails to be as bright as possible so no one can say they didn't see me.

 

And distracted drivers goes both ways. I am so fricking tired of not being able to get through a green turn arrow phase because three clowns in the line ahead can't wake up from looking at their phones to push the G D gas pedal and GOOOOOOOOO. Jeez.

 

Replaced all four brake calipers with red powder-coated ones (the left rear caliper was seizing) and finally put my EBC slotted rotors on the rear (been sitting in the box since 2015 when I bought the car - put EBC slotted rotors on the front that year.)
Need some advice - I bled each caliper as they were replaced, do I really need to bleed the system as per the FSM again?
Also contemplating SS brake hoses - Stoptech or Goodrich and why?

 

Yes, you should (need to) bleed the system. There's air in the calipers themselves at this point.

 

Hal, I bled each caliper as they were replaced( both rear then both front) until no air came out of the bleeder. I just want to know if I should do the "left rear, right front, right rear, left front" bleed procedure all over again. My back isn't what it used to be (jacking up the car).

 

Doesn't make a bit of difference. I have a Garnet Ember (red) G35xS. I installed "tail as turn" modules so that my turn signals should have be bright and obvious. They weren't.
I was still rear-ended by a 20-something looking at her phone. She claimed "I didn't see you". I said " You didn't see a bright red car with left turn signal flashing?"
Cost her insurance company $1800+ as I had it repaired at the most expensive (because they do good work) body shop in town.
I now watch my rear view mirror when ever I come to a stop and pulse my brake lights (and hope). :-(

 

Its a light smoke. Barely affects the light output. Im gonna try to lay it back down with the heat gun and maybe some edge sealer. If it doesnt hold, then that śhit is coming off and I will spray tint it.

 

Okay, I see. The 'order' in the FSM isn't mandatory, I don't think. I believe it's given that way in order to get efficient movement of fluid for a full fluid replacement, not so much bleeding air.

Have you driven the car since doing this work ? You'll know if you need to bleed the system better ! If it's working okay, you're good to go.

 

Bought some goodies for the G. Still dreaming my stock exhaust didn't fall apart because this aftermarket HKS clone sounds like A$$.

 

Replaced my first wheel bearing, drivers rear on the G. There was a tiny bit of play only noticeable with the brakes taken off, but very noticeable difference in smoothness, noise, and composure over rough surfaces.

Then I curbed every spoke on my driver side wheel in a rush in Boston, and have a new intense front end vibration over 85 to show for it.

Time to rice out my wheels with some gold plastidip and do a RFB!

 

Installed Vortech’s new bypass valve.

It’s much louder and has a more distinct sound to it over the original.

I think I need to adjust it as it seems to be closing too soon.

With the old valve I could input some throttle and emit a “spool” sound. Cruising on the highway it seemed to be always venting; sounding like a turbine. Easy to manipulate the valve via throttle input.

With this one, it sounds like it’s maybe 3/4 closed while cruising and the slightest input of throttle closes the valve.

I’ll look more into it. Might call Vortech tomorrow and see what’s what.