I found this while swapping an engine into my 06 6MT Coupe a few months ago. It works. Enter the PIN from the BCM (behind driver’s left kick panel - a five digit hexadecimal code) and it’ll provide a decrypted four-digit code.

http://keytechtools.com/bcmcodes/index.php

(I know it says "20 digit" conversion on the page, but it works fine for the 5-digit PINs from the G. )

No idea how long this tool will be online, but it’s been there for awhile, and I can confirm that it works.

I used a VAG cable (about $10 off of Amazon) and Nissan DataScan software with this to get around a NATS error due to a new ECM. After getting the decrypted code, and using the NDS software (which requests that code), I was able to pair my keys with the new ECM / BCM combination, and everything works great.

If anyone finds this far in the future, and the linked site is dead, you can always pay someone $20 on JustAnswer to decrypt it for you. If I were less ethical and didn’t like sleeping at night, I’d just charge people $10/pop for decoding and go use this site.

(I don’t own the linked site, nor am I affiliated with it in any way. In fact, I have no idea what the purpose of that site is, but it’s darn handy.)

 

Thanks for posting that, your G still running strong?

 

Thanks for sharing. I have NDS and it's a darn handy software

 

Engine / etc. are fantastic. A few days after I got it back home (I did the swap at my dad’s ridiculously-large shop about 100 miles north of here), the front driver’s side started bouncing a lot around 35-40MPH. I’m still chasing that one.

One of the lug nuts on that wheel was missing. I’m sure that’s my fault. It was the locking nut, and I had temporarily misplaced the key. I had to leave for the weekend and was going to fix it when I got back, but my dad drove the car to my place in the mean time, and he didn’t know it was missing. I replaced the nut, but the bouncing persists.

I tried the “bounce test’ to check for a bad shock, but that front end is so heavy that I can barely get it to budge.

I got a new set of slotted/drilled rotors & pads as one of the rotors was trash. I doubt the problem is a warped rotor - though that could happen with a missing lug, I don’t think it’d cause this weird vibration. Heading out for game developer’s conference and work meetings tomorrow, so I’ll install them when I get back.

Since there’s not a lot of stuff that can cause this weird bouncing / vibration, I’m left with:

1. Warped rotor. Would cause some vibration, but typically not like this.
2. Bad shock. I’m not sure how it would have suddenly gone bad, since it was fine immediately after installing the engine, and my father didn’t report any bouncing or vibration on the 100 mile trip to my house.
3. Flat spot on one or more tires. I could see this happening since the car was sitting for two years, but that should’ve been immediately noticeable on the first test drive.

I’m open to other suggestions. The tires are old, but they’ve got plenty of tread. After buying an engine, paying for three years of registration at once, brakes, etc., I’d rather not go buy a set of tires on the off chance that it might be the problem.

I tried swapping the front wheels to see if the problem followed the wheel. It definitely *changed*, but only to the extent that I couldn’t tell where it was coming from anymore.

Also, had the wheels balanced - two were out of balance - but that didn’t really change anything.

Anyway. Happy Sunday, everyone.

Off-Topic Update
The weird bouncing / vibration from the RH front was due to a seized caliper on the LH rear wheel. WTF. I'm guessing traction / stability control was going nuts with the (no-doubt glowing) brake trying to lock up. Pads were down to bare metal.

 

Yep - I am very impressed. It was well worth the money. (Considering I was 75 miles from the nearest Nissan / Infiniti dealer, he could’ve tripled the price and it still would have been cheaper than the tow and the service.)

Fun fact: My 350Z ECM is throwing a CEL for missing VVT components (I have a non-rev engine). And it reads the wideband O2 sensors correctly.

I’m thinking that this engine didn’t come out of the ‘05 JDM 350Z that I was told. But, it works, so I’m not going to look too closely. The ECM that came with the engine has a “FJ” code / sticker on it. The stock ECM is “UM.” I’ve found lists of the codes on the Intertubes, but nothing mentioning an FJ variant. (Well, except for the Maxima according to eBay, but this was not from a front wheel drive car.)

The plugs in the engine were fouled, also, but I replaced them and after several weeks, they look brand new. Now if I can figure out how to get rid of the rat pee smell - one had taken up residence under the dash while it was parked - I’ll be in business.

 

Anything VAG is good

 

Will this work to program an "intelligent" key fob?

 

I have no idea. I believe it should, since you're just registering the keys with the ECM / BCM, not actually reprogramming the keys. At least, that's how it works with the normal (non-intelligent) keys.

Did the coupes come with an intelligent key? I wish I had a start/stop button. Right next to "oil slick" and "ejector seat."

 

Found my brothers nissan intelligent key from his altima he sold years ago. If I program that fob, it won't erase my infiniti key currently linked to my car, will it?

 

Just saw how its done on NDS2. It will erase all programmed keys then you program each individual fob. Seems a little risky if it doesnt work for some reason

 

 

 

One of them is labeled "PIN." It's on a sticker on the BCM.

There are a few different BCMs out there, but it should look like this:



In this case, the one labeled 'PIN CODE', C0FB8, is what you'd use.

If you don't see that, post a pic of the label sticker on your BCM.

There's also (Images shamelessly lifted from the useless and overpriced http://www.digimotor.com/nissan-supe...-software.html)