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Replacing engine

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  #31  
Old 10-22-2007 | 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Startbutton99
it was 9

i took a look as i was driving home..

how does that make a difference? have ppl gotten different engine #'s?
Hey thanx for confirming yours a 9.
Umm...yeah actually one member stated his ended in a 1 after I posted number with a 9.
So your # coincides with my resource and another member who just got a replacement.
That makes three confirmations that it's 10102-AC7M9 to only one on other.
I think prob the 9 wasnt wriiten well and it looked like a 1 to that other member.
Enjoy your new VQ and hope the power comes more alive for you.
 

Last edited by V35 Skyline GT; 10-22-2007 at 11:39 PM.
  #32  
Old 10-22-2007 | 11:38 PM
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I just got my car back, last Friday afternoon. The new engine definitely feels smoother. Other than that, it feels essentially the same as before, as I am breaking in the engine.

With regard to the engine feeling weaker . . . Perhaps, you are feeling the lack of your previous mods?


Edit: Whew! I do appreciate seeing that number 9.
 
  #33  
Old 10-23-2007 | 03:02 AM
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well some of my low end torque has returned.. but im still not happy with the high end..

im gonna put the engine damper, headers and cats back in,.. hopefully by this weekend.. and i'll see wat happens..

06cpv, mine was printed on the paper by computer. not by hand.. so i dunno how there can be an error..
wats the number for the previous problematic revup engine?

so does that guy with the 1 on the end of his engine#, is he gonna have oil consumption problems again? hmmm..
 
  #34  
Old 10-23-2007 | 03:44 AM
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hey startbutton99... did dealer tell you to remove header, cat, intake, exhaust?
 
  #35  
Old 10-23-2007 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Startbutton99
06cpv, mine was printed on the paper by computer. not by hand.. so i dunno how there can be an error..
wats the number for the previous problematic revup engine?

so does that guy with the 1 on the end of his engine#, is he gonna have oil consumption problems again? hmmm..
Dont know number for previous problematic revup engine.
The guy with 10102-AC7M1 got his awhile ago and stated it was the hand built one, revised piston/rings, etc. Think close to when they just started using those, so
He has no consumption issues anymore that I've heard of and is SC with a Vortex.

JMO but if I were you, I'd hold off on your mods till after break-in period done.
Just my .02
Thanks again for the part number confirmation
 
  #36  
Old 10-23-2007 | 01:58 PM
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im about 300miles into the new engine.. its been getting better..

as someone mentioned.. the engine loosens up as it breaks in..

im a lil bit impatient with this hole deal.. if i end up taking off my stuff again.. then im done with this car.. period.

but yeah i agree, its probably smarter to wait a lil bit longer.. but im not planning on keeping the car/engine if it happens again..
Civic Si here i come.. haha
or maybe a mazdaspeed3 =p


davidchoi, i had mine removed by street image. Just so i dont have to worry about damaging my parts..
it might be doable with the parts still on.. but u hve to return the stock equipment so they can return the engine with stock parts.
 
  #37  
Old 10-23-2007 | 09:17 PM
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Hang in there, Startbutton99. I have some 200 miles on my new engine. It's a royal pain. However, if the OC issue is resolved, it will have been worth the headache.
 
  #38  
Old 10-24-2007 | 05:00 PM
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I need to put on my cats and headers and see how much i really lost..

thanks andy.. u too!
 
  #39  
Old 11-03-2007 | 07:42 PM
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Just wondering, when they replaced your engine, did they replace the clutch assembly? If not, do you think they would if asked? I wouldn't think they'll charge too much if they do, would they?
 
  #40  
Old 11-05-2007 | 04:20 PM
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Ciccio, you'd just have to ask.

a friend of mine has a 350z, got his engine replaced, and they said theyd change the clutch assembly for free.. (a hook up from that dealer to my friend).. but the point is.. its supposed to be easier to change during the engine swap..
so just ask them!.
 
  #41  
Old 11-06-2007 | 11:35 PM
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Picked up my new 'v2' engine car yesterday from Tysons infiniti. Replaced with the revised engine due to oil consumption issues.

They put me in the car to drive home with the SES light on - dummies. I gave it right back to them, but it was late in the evening.

Their loaner does not have the parking pass for my neighborhood and I don't feel like paying for a garage in downtown DC while they fix my car, so I took it home, and plan to bring it back in on Saturday.

They pulled the codes before I left and said it was some sort of solenoid failure that has to do with the timing.

I noticed that every time I do something with the lights, windows, auto temperature, AC, radio, etc, the idle starts jumping around, going very low to near stall, then up, etc then eventually flattens out to the correct idle and RPM's. It seems to be fine if I don't touch anything, then every few stoplights or so at idle it starts up again. I did not check to make sure the oil was full because it's been dark every time I have been near my car, but I hope, for the sake of this dealer's reputation, that they put all the oil in my car that should be there!

Parked, I put the windows up and down and then went outside with the hood up and the engine seems to sound normal at normal revs, but I hear a slight knock, knock, knock from the passenger side of the engine at lowest RPM on idle jumping then goes away when idle goes back to normal.

MAF? Injectors (I see they left a tag on the injector assembly with the part number and 2005 - did they put my old ones on? I don't have the svc records for all I had done as I'm taking it back Saturday), alternator, timing problem? What do you guys think.

I am worried they botched something with the engine install or there is something wrong with my new engine.

What a hassle!! The good news is I received a call today that they're giving me the extended premium warranty of 7 yrs/100k miles for free (I b**ched to NNA ALOT).

Wondering if I should go somewhere else instead for a "second opinion", and to have them check ALL of the work this other stealership did.
 
  #42  
Old 11-07-2007 | 12:04 PM
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Here's a TSB on a ticking noise that comes from passenger side engine comartment while at idle.

ITB06-012.pdf
 
  #43  
Old 11-07-2007 | 01:41 PM
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It makes the noise when it's on the low end of the RPM range during the rough idle, like it's stalling/close to shutting off. What could be the problem in that the use of the electicity for the lights, radio, windows, etc causes the idle to go lower and haywire?
 
  #44  
Old 11-07-2007 | 04:01 PM
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Hi all...I too just had my engine replaced with a 10102-AC7M1 engine. It's been a little over 1300 miles, I went out and checked my oil lvl, after driving around and at operation temps, waited a good 15 mins....and my dip stick puts the lvl a little less than a 1/4 over the L. I'm bring'n her in tomorrow to document things...seems like i'm taking a detour back to the road of oil consumption tests...

Ed
 
  #45  
Old 11-07-2007 | 04:17 PM
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crap..

imma just head to the dealer b4 i take my car in to SI for my headers and cat re-install..

word up Wordup!
 


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