Need Advice On Buying A Beater/Bucket in Socal
#1
Need Advice On Buying A Beater/Bucket in Socal
I recently decided that I need a second car. But I don't need anything expensive or flashy....so I figured that puts me in the category of a beater/bucket/hoopty whatever you want to call it.
It would definitely need to be reliable, and the AC has gotta work...those are the 2 most important things. It just has to get me where I need to go around town, not even long/crazy distances.
Obviously I'd be buying something used and probably old. Is there any type of specific car I should be looking for? Am I better off with an holder Honda or Toyota...or a newer Hyundai or Daewoo? I'm looking to spend the cheapest amount possible, but I don't want to buy a headache....Is a couple thousand reasonable? Could I get something like that for under a thousand? Is anything I buy for a couple thousand going to be a headache and am I better off spending 10k?
Is there a particular place I should be looking? Autotrader, auctions, dealers?
I've never purchased a used car,,,is there anything I should be looking out for?
Any light you guys could shed on this matter would greatly be appreciated. What car to buy, how much to spend, and where to buy it from.
Thanks a lot!
It would definitely need to be reliable, and the AC has gotta work...those are the 2 most important things. It just has to get me where I need to go around town, not even long/crazy distances.
Obviously I'd be buying something used and probably old. Is there any type of specific car I should be looking for? Am I better off with an holder Honda or Toyota...or a newer Hyundai or Daewoo? I'm looking to spend the cheapest amount possible, but I don't want to buy a headache....Is a couple thousand reasonable? Could I get something like that for under a thousand? Is anything I buy for a couple thousand going to be a headache and am I better off spending 10k?
Is there a particular place I should be looking? Autotrader, auctions, dealers?
I've never purchased a used car,,,is there anything I should be looking out for?
Any light you guys could shed on this matter would greatly be appreciated. What car to buy, how much to spend, and where to buy it from.
Thanks a lot!
#4
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an integra is definately something you should buy.
i recently sold my 94 integra in top-notch shape for 5 grand to my bro-in-law and let me just say, i regret it now!!
for one, the fact that im putting more miles on my G just by going to work.
anywho, i'm also in the market in buying a beater(future project car of mine) and piece of advice I can give you is, stick with either a civic or integra. as far as prices go. you might want to check out honda-tech.com you'll find something that's pretty decent and for a good price.
if you find a civic or integra with a different engine. just make sure they have the proper paperwork to go along with it.
and if you dont want any headaches, you might want to get a good mechanic you know ask him to go with you so he can check out the car for you. they'll normally do like a leak down test. you spend a little for the mechanic and it'll save you alot more in the long run.
1 other thing, civics & integras, their maintenance from 1-10 is about 2 lol its real simple!
good luck Mike!
i recently sold my 94 integra in top-notch shape for 5 grand to my bro-in-law and let me just say, i regret it now!!
for one, the fact that im putting more miles on my G just by going to work.
anywho, i'm also in the market in buying a beater(future project car of mine) and piece of advice I can give you is, stick with either a civic or integra. as far as prices go. you might want to check out honda-tech.com you'll find something that's pretty decent and for a good price.
if you find a civic or integra with a different engine. just make sure they have the proper paperwork to go along with it.
and if you dont want any headaches, you might want to get a good mechanic you know ask him to go with you so he can check out the car for you. they'll normally do like a leak down test. you spend a little for the mechanic and it'll save you alot more in the long run.
1 other thing, civics & integras, their maintenance from 1-10 is about 2 lol its real simple!
good luck Mike!
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Originally Posted by MikeyMike
Why do people like Integra's so much? Are they fun to drive or something?
i wouldn't say it wasn't as fun as my G, but it's more along the lines of easy to maintain and very reliable. that's the part which won me over. and there's alot more civics than integras lol
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Originally Posted by phayze one
I would say a Camry over an Integra. I've owned both, and the teg was great but was stolen within a couple months. That's one big headache.
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#8
Integra. I'd suggest getting a '90 to '93 LS/GS/RS hatchback.
I had an RS with the B18A engine. It has really good pick up for a 4 banger (140 HP, 127 TQ). Geared for the low end and very torquey for a 4 cylinder. They're a blast to drive. I used to canyon carve when I had it - dropped on 5Zigen 5ZF 17s. Minor mods did make a difference - intake, plugs w/ wires, and exhaust.
I had an RS with the B18A engine. It has really good pick up for a 4 banger (140 HP, 127 TQ). Geared for the low end and very torquey for a 4 cylinder. They're a blast to drive. I used to canyon carve when I had it - dropped on 5Zigen 5ZF 17s. Minor mods did make a difference - intake, plugs w/ wires, and exhaust.
Last edited by ZeroGen; 12-29-2005 at 04:27 AM.
#9
MikeyMike you aint gonna get anything decent for under a thousand these days. Especially no car that still has the ac working and probably no power doors and windows. You'll have to spend at least $4k for a mid-90's civic or a early 90's integra. Best place to shop for a used car is the Recycler or one of those mexican car dealerships in East LA.
When buying a used car, first of all, always expect it to be in some form of accident. Hey lets face it, people driving japanese cars aren't the best drivers.
1) So you wanna look for any abnormalities in the paint. Open the hood and check the bottom of it as well as the sides of the inner engine bay. You're looking for overspray. That's an indicator that it's been in an accident.
2) Inspect all the hoses, ie - radiator. Because you're most likely going to purchase a used car nearing the 100k mark, all hoses should've been changed already. You should be able to identify what's new and what's not. Old hoses will look worn out. You don't want any cracked hoses.
3) Along with the hoses, inspect the radiator. Again with cars nearing 100k miles, the radiator should be going out soon if not already. Identify if it's a genuine manufacturer part of an aftermarket one.
4) It's not a must or as critical but I tend to look at the bolts used for the transmission and engine. Bolts that appeared to have been loosened and/or stripped means that some work has been done to the part. Buying a car with a rebuilt tranny is up to you.
5) Ask them if they've kept all the vehicles' service papers. ie - oil changes, 15k,30k,100k tuneups. Knowing that the car has been properly maintained is a good thing.
Other than that, everything is up to you. A/C, radio, interior, etc. Good Luck!
When buying a used car, first of all, always expect it to be in some form of accident. Hey lets face it, people driving japanese cars aren't the best drivers.
1) So you wanna look for any abnormalities in the paint. Open the hood and check the bottom of it as well as the sides of the inner engine bay. You're looking for overspray. That's an indicator that it's been in an accident.
2) Inspect all the hoses, ie - radiator. Because you're most likely going to purchase a used car nearing the 100k mark, all hoses should've been changed already. You should be able to identify what's new and what's not. Old hoses will look worn out. You don't want any cracked hoses.
3) Along with the hoses, inspect the radiator. Again with cars nearing 100k miles, the radiator should be going out soon if not already. Identify if it's a genuine manufacturer part of an aftermarket one.
4) It's not a must or as critical but I tend to look at the bolts used for the transmission and engine. Bolts that appeared to have been loosened and/or stripped means that some work has been done to the part. Buying a car with a rebuilt tranny is up to you.
5) Ask them if they've kept all the vehicles' service papers. ie - oil changes, 15k,30k,100k tuneups. Knowing that the car has been properly maintained is a good thing.
Other than that, everything is up to you. A/C, radio, interior, etc. Good Luck!
#10
An integra is reliable, while sporty (for the amount of money you pay)...don't expect a G quality ride as a beater...but the integra comes up on top of alot of other 4 bangers out there...gas is great, insurance is too and maintenance? What maintenance? To take care of it, you:
1) Fill it up with gas
2) Wash it every once in a while
3) Oil change
Very basic car...I would get a GS-R but since you mentioned Daewoo and other crappy powered cars, I would settle for a GS or LS only because GS-R's get jacked even if they are stock because simply of the motor swap capabiltities.
1) Fill it up with gas
2) Wash it every once in a while
3) Oil change
Very basic car...I would get a GS-R but since you mentioned Daewoo and other crappy powered cars, I would settle for a GS or LS only because GS-R's get jacked even if they are stock because simply of the motor swap capabiltities.
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How about a low mileage Toyota Tecel?
I found a few on eBay motors for a decent price: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...QQcmdZViewItem
or a '93 Mazda 626 for <$1K?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-...QQcmdZViewItem
I found a few on eBay motors for a decent price: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...QQcmdZViewItem
or a '93 Mazda 626 for <$1K?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-...QQcmdZViewItem
Last edited by blksnake; 12-29-2005 at 01:49 PM.
#12
#13
GS-R = 170HP
LS/GS = 140HP range...
However, the GS-R feels and IS much quicker that the others...my cousin ran his against an audi TT, and mustang GT once and hung on thier a$$e$! Don't forget it is a very light weight car...
GS-R is only in 5-spd, so hope that doesn't bother you. I would check insurance as it'll be significantly higher for the GS-R since they are stolen quite often and is the step right before Type-R.
GS-R is only leather, different rims....check msn auto for details...try looking at 98-01 model years...
Here is the link to all model specs side by side for simplicity:
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Sp...IP&tab=2&sub=0
Some fo the specs are screwey such as "5 spd manual" OPT on coupe GS-R but STD on sedan....just follow sedan specs as they are the same for the coupe....
LS/GS = 140HP range...
However, the GS-R feels and IS much quicker that the others...my cousin ran his against an audi TT, and mustang GT once and hung on thier a$$e$! Don't forget it is a very light weight car...
GS-R is only in 5-spd, so hope that doesn't bother you. I would check insurance as it'll be significantly higher for the GS-R since they are stolen quite often and is the step right before Type-R.
GS-R is only leather, different rims....check msn auto for details...try looking at 98-01 model years...
Here is the link to all model specs side by side for simplicity:
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Sp...IP&tab=2&sub=0
Some fo the specs are screwey such as "5 spd manual" OPT on coupe GS-R but STD on sedan....just follow sedan specs as they are the same for the coupe....
Last edited by Gee Im Fast; 12-29-2005 at 02:19 PM.