SPC front camber kit arrived today
SPC front camber kit arrived today
Kit is 72130 for 07+ G35 sedan. These look just like the prototypes 2008G35XSinMD had installed.
https://g35driver.com/forums/tech-07...-arms-win.html
Hopefully, I can get 'em on this sunday and have it aligned next week!
If your drop is aggressive it is a good idea to correct the camber. For medium drops like eibach you can get away with just correcting toe. From what i have seen from eibach drops, your front camber will be -1.8 to -2.0 where -1.2 is limit of normal. You will get some premature tire wear but not to bad. In fact some autocrossers might intentionally specify that range for better cornering.
installed
Just reporting back that the install went pretty smoothly--straight bolt on. I did not adjust castor. Took me about 2 hours. If doing this with a spring install, it'll take you only 15 minutes because you already have the spring/strut assembly out.
The pic below is the stock setup. The three triangles denote the bolts that attach the A-arms to the car. Unfortunately the two 14mm bolts to the body cannot be taken out as is because the springs are in the way.
Accordingly, I removed the upper strut nuts in the engine bay and let the spring/strut assembly drop down. I disconnected the sway bar from the endlink to allow more play. I loosened lower strut nut but did not remove the bolt or the bottom of the strut--that gave me enough play to pull back on only the upper spring-strut assembly (after the A-arm ball joint was removed from the spindle - 14mm locking bolt/nut) to remove the A-arm bolts.
The A-arms are already marked for Left or Right. I arbitrarily set a little positive camber correction on the ball joint position of the SPC arms and tightened the nut with a 27mm socket. You then just reattach everything and tighten the two A-arm-to-body bolts when the suspension is loaded (I used a jack).
All done:
Hopefully will get an alignment this week.
The pic below is the stock setup. The three triangles denote the bolts that attach the A-arms to the car. Unfortunately the two 14mm bolts to the body cannot be taken out as is because the springs are in the way.
Accordingly, I removed the upper strut nuts in the engine bay and let the spring/strut assembly drop down. I disconnected the sway bar from the endlink to allow more play. I loosened lower strut nut but did not remove the bolt or the bottom of the strut--that gave me enough play to pull back on only the upper spring-strut assembly (after the A-arm ball joint was removed from the spindle - 14mm locking bolt/nut) to remove the A-arm bolts.
The A-arms are already marked for Left or Right. I arbitrarily set a little positive camber correction on the ball joint position of the SPC arms and tightened the nut with a 27mm socket. You then just reattach everything and tighten the two A-arm-to-body bolts when the suspension is loaded (I used a jack).
All done:
Hopefully will get an alignment this week.
Last edited by mishmosh; Mar 8, 2009 at 07:32 PM.
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I just noticed that i installed the ball joint piece how it was configured when i got it--protruding inward slightly. To get the maximal positive camber adjustment range, you need to have the ball jt protruding outward. So i stiill need to do a simple 180deg change after removing the locking nut. Make sure you check this.
Last edited by mishmosh; Mar 9, 2009 at 10:26 AM.
Here is what I mean by having the ball joint either protruding inside or out. I believe the one on the right is the orientation you want (protruding out).
From 2008G35XSinMD's alignment measurements on Eibach springs (thanks bro!), he got a camber adjustment range of (-3.9 to -0.7) with the ball on the inside position and a range of (-2 to +1.2) with the ball on the outside position. I think this says that either will get you into normal specs with Eibach but for anything more aggressive, you definitely want the ball joint out (ie. with SPC label facing out).
In any case, I was able to reverse the ball joint orientation by jacking up each side and removing the top locking nut. I did not even have to remove the wheel because there is plenty of room to work.
From 2008G35XSinMD's alignment measurements on Eibach springs (thanks bro!), he got a camber adjustment range of (-3.9 to -0.7) with the ball on the inside position and a range of (-2 to +1.2) with the ball on the outside position. I think this says that either will get you into normal specs with Eibach but for anything more aggressive, you definitely want the ball joint out (ie. with SPC label facing out).
In any case, I was able to reverse the ball joint orientation by jacking up each side and removing the top locking nut. I did not even have to remove the wheel because there is plenty of room to work.
Last edited by mishmosh; Mar 9, 2009 at 08:41 PM.
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No rattle at all. The arms are not hitting anything on my setup--the arms are elevated where ball joint is (compared to stock). I do not think you would bottom out that badly that the arms hit what's above it.