5at N/A build, poor results, need help
#31
02-11-2013, 02:04 PM
Its a definite MUST for deactivating or turning off/taking away ETC. I am telling you its night and day difference on how responsive it makes the throttle. There wont be any gradual power but just instant power when you go WOT on both auto/manual mode. Only down side is that you lose cruise control =\
My cousin just went back today to take off the ETC on his 350z. He was in a awh when it was done. Car is a different animal after deactivating ETC.
Also check on that throttle cut. I am 100% positive the tuner set yours to OEM specs thats why you are getting the feeling of lost power up top. I had the same issue and went back to my tuner and he upped the throttle cut to an rpm that I wouldnt even reach which was 7300 and my rev limit was 7000. Did not feel any loss anymore!!! So its not really turning off the throttle cut because you cant get rid of it. You can only set it to a higher RPM that the car wont reach and you wont ever feel it.
Last edited by Algy; 02-11-2013 at 02:11 PM.
#32
02-11-2013, 02:33 PM
Registered User
Its a definite MUST for deactivating or turning off/taking away ETC. I am telling you its night and day difference on how responsive it makes the throttle. There wont be any gradual power but just instant power when you go WOT on both auto/manual mode. Only down side is that you lose cruise control =\
My cousin just went back today to take off the ETC on his 350z. He was in a awh when it was done. Car is a different animal after deactivating ETC.
Also check on that throttle cut. I am 100% positive the tuner set yours to OEM specs thats why you are getting the feeling of lost power up top. I had the same issue and went back to my tuner and he upped the throttle cut to an rpm that I wouldnt even reach which was 7300 and my rev limit was 7000. Did not feel any loss anymore!!! So its not really turning off the throttle cut because you cant get rid of it. You can only set it to a higher RPM that the car wont reach and you wont ever feel it.
My cousin just went back today to take off the ETC on his 350z. He was in a awh when it was done. Car is a different animal after deactivating ETC.
Also check on that throttle cut. I am 100% positive the tuner set yours to OEM specs thats why you are getting the feeling of lost power up top. I had the same issue and went back to my tuner and he upped the throttle cut to an rpm that I wouldnt even reach which was 7300 and my rev limit was 7000. Did not feel any loss anymore!!! So its not really turning off the throttle cut because you cant get rid of it. You can only set it to a higher RPM that the car wont reach and you wont ever feel it.
I remember seeing a second value on the rev-limiter, must be throttle cut value, mine is higher than redline too, 7000rpm with a 6800rpm redline. This could be part of the problem but not all, it doesn't make sense how this thing makes no additional power above 4300rpm with a tune,
#33
02-11-2013, 02:38 PM
Registered User
Please see my Dyno for my BONESTOCK G35 with a pathetic K&N filter along with Z-tube which adds .00001hp. I have a stock REVUP motor with cd009 manual tranny. I would expect you to get much higher numbers than what is posted. Sounds like a ton of money for "diamonds" in your engine and they did not seem to pay off. Also can't you play with solenoid pressure or line pressure to help keep your shifts in check (not really sure as I have a manual and she always stays in check 
).
Edit: BTW that was on shitty 87 octane gas
).Edit: BTW that was on shitty 87 octane gas
Last edited by Peoria35sedan; 02-11-2013 at 02:42 PM.
#34
02-11-2013, 02:43 PM
yeah no doubt a tune would help but the AFR was bouncing around so bad since it was on 87 octane and the tuner confirmed AFR being compensated by ecu. I plan to go back in the next month on our next dyno day and retest. I think the AFR will be in check since I am back to 93 octane after the last dyno. Lastly no point in doing a tune since I have no mods. Once I slap the automatic lower plenum, plenum spacer and HFC/TP then I will go back and actually get a tune. Till then I made sure to use the top tier 93 octane so the ecu is not having to compensate for AFR. Even with 87 octane and AFR all over the place it put down 240whp/209tq for practically a stock motor with 90k miles.
#35
02-11-2013, 04:12 PM
I have the tuner version so I'm going to shut off the ETC and see if it makes a difference.
I remember seeing a second value on the rev-limiter, must be throttle cut value, mine is higher than redline too, 7000rpm with a 6800rpm redline. This could be part of the problem but not all, it doesn't make sense how this thing makes no additional power above 4300rpm with a tune,
I remember seeing a second value on the rev-limiter, must be throttle cut value, mine is higher than redline too, 7000rpm with a 6800rpm redline. This could be part of the problem but not all, it doesn't make sense how this thing makes no additional power above 4300rpm with a tune,
Then turn it off and repeat those gear rolls. Then come back here and let us know how it was
#36
02-11-2013, 10:34 PM
#37
02-12-2013, 12:55 AM
So let's say you have an uprev map with electronic throttle control disabled, but it's bad weather so you keep VDC on, then VDC won't ever cut the throttle if but can still brake the wheels to keep you from spinning out around a curve? Or maybe VDC wouldn't do anything at all.
If thats what you are asking then no the wheels wont break loose still if the VDC is on. BUT, even though I have the ETC disabled and the VDC on and I do a 20 roll in 1st gear and mash the gas breaking loose my rear tires, my SLIP light activates keeping it from slipping then the car just goes. No gradual acceleration, just pure WOT. But with the ETC on and VDC on doing that same thing with the 20 roll, the car SLIPS and then gradually goes WOT.
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jomamahama (02-13-2013)
#38
02-13-2013, 10:01 AM
OP here is a pic of my dyno on a mustang also. We had almost the same mods at the time I did this.
I know all dynos are calibrated differently, but since this is the same type of dyno your numbers should be close within 10-20hp.
My mods at the time of this dyno
JWT S1/ DLC buckets
DMK intake manifold (helps with top end) https://g35driver.com/forums/intake-...-manifold.html
3in MAF
Revup air box
Momentum headers
Art pipes
invidia gemini exhaust
3.5 FD
Transgo VB
I know all dynos are calibrated differently, but since this is the same type of dyno your numbers should be close within 10-20hp.
My mods at the time of this dyno
JWT S1/ DLC buckets
DMK intake manifold (helps with top end) https://g35driver.com/forums/intake-...-manifold.html
3in MAF
Revup air box
Momentum headers
Art pipes
invidia gemini exhaust
3.5 FD
Transgo VB
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North Van G (02-13-2013)
#39
02-13-2013, 02:14 PM
I can definitely help you here!!! First off let me say that I recently went back and got a retune after 3 days bc my tuner said I could make more power. He was right, I made 10 more ponies and a lot more torque. BUT after all of that, everything got reset like the throttle response and the rev limiter and throttle cut. Went back today and he fixed everything.
To your problem about the throttle cut, ask the your tuner to raise your revs to what ever desired rev you want. After that, ask the tuner to set the throttle cut to about 3-400 rpms higher to whatever your rev limit is. That should solve your problem bc it did mine. I had my rev limit to 7000 and the throttle cut at 7300 which I wont even come close to and the throttle cut wont ever initiate.
Another thing I notice too after he retuned it was my throttle response sucked and it was sooooo laggy. To fix that he took away the ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) which is for the cruise control and depending what year and model you have (06-07) helps with rev matching when you downshift. My tuner turned that off for me and I cant use my cruise control but damn my throttle response is night a day difference after turning the ETC off. The car responds and explodes to whatever I do to the pedal. Also when downshifting, I have to blip my own throttle so it doesnt jerk hard from the lower gear.
To your problem about the throttle cut, ask the your tuner to raise your revs to what ever desired rev you want. After that, ask the tuner to set the throttle cut to about 3-400 rpms higher to whatever your rev limit is. That should solve your problem bc it did mine. I had my rev limit to 7000 and the throttle cut at 7300 which I wont even come close to and the throttle cut wont ever initiate.
Another thing I notice too after he retuned it was my throttle response sucked and it was sooooo laggy. To fix that he took away the ETC (Electronic Throttle Control) which is for the cruise control and depending what year and model you have (06-07) helps with rev matching when you downshift. My tuner turned that off for me and I cant use my cruise control but damn my throttle response is night a day difference after turning the ETC off. The car responds and explodes to whatever I do to the pedal. Also when downshifting, I have to blip my own throttle so it doesnt jerk hard from the lower gear.
The throttle cut on my car is mph which is set for 200mph.
Fuel cut is 7300 fuel restore is 7000.
#40
02-13-2013, 09:32 PM
I spoke with my tuner today. I am not sure about the terminology but my rev limit was set to 7000 RPM and the throttle cut was set to 7200 RPM. The power starts to trail off at 6200 RPM on the Dino, so I guess we can rule that out as a problem.
Hittin up the Mopac Dyno tomorrow for a quick pull..
Hittin up the Mopac Dyno tomorrow for a quick pull..
#41
02-13-2013, 09:39 PM
I spoke with my tuner today. I am not sure about the terminology but my rev limit was set to 7000 RPM and the throttle cut was set to 7200 RPM. The power starts to trail off at 6200 RPM on the Dino, so I guess we can rule that out as a problem.
Hittin up the Mopac Dyno tomorrow for a quick pull..
Hittin up the Mopac Dyno tomorrow for a quick pull..
#42
02-13-2013, 10:31 PM
#43
02-14-2013, 11:29 AM
Registered User
OK, ETC off 
the throttle acts linear to the accelerator pedal, wow, very touchy. This may be a great setting for drag racing with slicks or drag radials but not so much with street tires, probabaly a must for you drifters and weekend warriors out there. I switched it back on for daily driving. Since you can change the ETC settings in the throttle table you should be able to leave this on and adjust it to feel more responsive, I wonder if pro tuners turn this off while dyno tuning since it restricts power output until WOT? I'm not sure there's any peak horsepower gains here but from a standstill the car will spin the tires until I lift whereas with this on it spins them gets traction and spins them again above 4000rpm to redline or until I lift.
the throttle acts linear to the accelerator pedal, wow, very touchy. This may be a great setting for drag racing with slicks or drag radials but not so much with street tires, probabaly a must for you drifters and weekend warriors out there. I switched it back on for daily driving. Since you can change the ETC settings in the throttle table you should be able to leave this on and adjust it to feel more responsive, I wonder if pro tuners turn this off while dyno tuning since it restricts power output until WOT? I'm not sure there's any peak horsepower gains here but from a standstill the car will spin the tires until I lift whereas with this on it spins them gets traction and spins them again above 4000rpm to redline or until I lift.
#44
02-14-2013, 01:39 PM
#45
02-14-2013, 10:22 PM
Mopac dyno results
Here are the results from Mopac.
Run 2 (thick line) is from last Spring with art pipes and spacer, no uprev. Run 1 (thin line) is today's test.
As you can see it lost power until higher up.. Basically the opposite of what happened at RG. Run 2 ended at 5800rpm when the stock ecu throttle cut kicked in so there's no way of knowing what would have happened had the throttle cut been removed before doing cams. It was also running a bit lean in the lower rpm range. It's hard to compare the two runs because in run2 the afr monitor popped off the exhaust mid run (see the gap up in afr at 5700rpm). Also there was a dip in run1 afr at 5000rpm but that was just a glitch. I don't have afr's from RG's dyno (on the right) to compare yet.
Run 2 (thick line) is from last Spring with art pipes and spacer, no uprev. Run 1 (thin line) is today's test.
As you can see it lost power until higher up.. Basically the opposite of what happened at RG. Run 2 ended at 5800rpm when the stock ecu throttle cut kicked in so there's no way of knowing what would have happened had the throttle cut been removed before doing cams. It was also running a bit lean in the lower rpm range. It's hard to compare the two runs because in run2 the afr monitor popped off the exhaust mid run (see the gap up in afr at 5700rpm). Also there was a dip in run1 afr at 5000rpm but that was just a glitch. I don't have afr's from RG's dyno (on the right) to compare yet.
Last edited by North Van G; 02-14-2013 at 10:27 PM.