I posted this on my350z, but I am posting here because more G folk hang here, and I figured my question could be answered better here.

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Here is my dyno sheet with the following mods (first dyno, never did a baseline):
04 G35 Coupe 5AT (this is not a mod ) with JWT PopCharger, Z Tube, MD 3/8" Spacer, TopSpeed Pro-1 Headers, Helix Test Pipes, Injen SES Exhaust, Grounding Gear



The guy did what seemed to be 50 pulls with my car, but did 2 or 3 extra cause my damn JWT PC flew the F off .
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Ok, now the questions:
Since running NA, am I losing backpressure with all these mods NOT getting a tune first?
Will an ECU reflash help any (read mixed reviews about benefits and possible lose)?
I know this question has been beaten to death, but I haven't found a solid answer (search search search). Would I benefit more or less replacing my test pipes with High Flow cats? Are running test pipes having a negative effect on my numbers?

 

bump, with all these views you think someone would be able to offer some suggestions.

From doing my research, and hearing from others regarding similiar issues they are having as a result of having the same mods, I am deciding whether or not I should go forward with an ECU reflash. Is anyone else besides Technosquare able to do a reflash?, maybe someone local to NJ/NY? Any feedback would be great.

 

Reflash man

 

Technosquare? AAM? UTECH? Benefits and possible loss from any of these? I saw a thread starting that tried to compare TS and AAM, but no solid answers.

Can anyone that has benefited from a reflash after doing mostly the same mods post dyno results (before and after) please?

What else is available?

 

Those are some nice gains.

What gear did you do the run in?

I know since i have test pipes on my car I am loosing low end power and torque. You can feel it a LOT. But at 3.5-4k i can feel the power coming in and it just wants to pull and pull.

The thing with the our ecu is OBDII. So no matte what, after a while some of the gains will be detuned. Its just the nature of the computer. I personally dont like reflashing since you can not go back.

Your A/F could def be a bit lower but see if you could use a piggy back a/f controler.

 

I honestly don't know what gear they did the run in (5AT what's the gear they start you up?)

I also noticed the loss in low end after adding my test pipes, but from 3.5k+ the power is pretty nice.

As far as a reflash, I am reading more and more about this UTEC unit available that is supposed to offer nice gains stock and for folks with mods, maybe it's something to look into.

 

Your running kinda lean, I recommend doing both, getting a piggy back system and getting a reflash. The Reflash will help u in ways a piggy back cant, such as raising the rev limiter and 100% full throttle and etc. While the piggy back can fine tune the a/f ratio. Get the L spec reflash from ts which does everything a normal reflash does besides tuning the a/f ratio. Then use the piggy back to tune the a/f ratio. I believe the L spec flash is only $295. They probably have something similiar to the L spec flash in aam as well. As far as the difference between TS and AAM, there is absolutely no difference. They use the same software.

 

He is runing auto tranny, he wont be able to raise the rev limiter. He will run into problems with tranny computer not knowing what to do.

I agree he is runing a lil lean. He should be at 13 for the most part.

Any idea if changing the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) on teh VQ motor will give him the needed amount.

Before you go messing with computer ... i would just see what you can do wit mods.

 

I will look into the TS L-Spec, for that price, and what it does, it should be worth the money. I could always add the UTEC later on, or before for that matter too.

I wasn't aware that an auto can't raise the stock rev limiter, is this a fact? I will have to research myself if this is what you claim.

Also, can you be more detailed about not messing with the computer first, and seeing what I can do with my mods? What can I do with the mods I already have?, I am confused about what you mean.

 

^^^

You have your ECU and a unit that controls your AT. If you start changing REV limiters in your ECU, there is a possibility that the 2 will not communicate properly.

Going by your existing dyno graph, you gained a good amount of power. Remember your computer is self learing, it will detune some power, but at the same time still use the mods you have to level it self out to where the stock parameters are/should be just higher. Remember the ecu has to adjust itself for cold and hot weather. If you put your car on a dyno during summer and winter you would get 2 different number that coul dbe well off by 5 or even 10 or more or less. There are different factors that can manipulate the power and your ecu is designed to compensate for it. There for its always adjusting itself

I do agree your fuel curve should be adjusted, but like i mentioned before i think before you go messing with ecu see if you can get fuel presure riser and bump up the fuel pressure up a bit. The computer should see extra fuel and give it to the engine.
On a side note, on my Honda prelude, there was a workaround that a few people discovered. They took Back up power to ECU and cut it. What that back up power does, is that it keeps the setting stored in the ecu. Basically imagine reseting your ecu everytime you shut off your car.
This mod didnt give any additional gains, it basically let your car keep the gains it got from the mods that were on. Since the ecu learns what not stock and detunes itself it usually takes anout a week from what some claim. So if you want to do the ecu reset every week you could, But i would get a dyno comparison as well to see what you gained.

 

I personally dont have a Reflashed ECU, so i cant say for sure. But i have never heard anything about a auto not being able to raise the rev limiter. And there are alot of autos with the reflashed ecu. Im 99.999999999% sure they can raise the rev limiter of the auto with no problem.

 

Yes the auto can be raised, Turbonetics will be doing that with their reflash and for changing the shift points as well I believe for the turbo.

 

dude u had your dyno done 2 blocks from my house

 

I have 2005 G35 coupe 5 AT myself. I put up on DynoJet --- 236rwhp /222 tq -- with only a Carbon Fiber G Tube and Grounding Gear. I recently put on Crawford Cats, but I have not dynoed yet.

Those headers you have make you run extremely lean. It is for this reason I opted to not do headers (only intake, cats, Y, and exhaust).

What you should do is disconnect the negative battery cable for 12 hours. It would be best if you could for 24 hours. That way the car will have all the ignition maps erased. It would be like you just bought you car except with those mods. Then drive the hell out of your car (real aggressive). That way it will be in aggressive mode.

It was explained to me that the G35s have several "maps" that the computer falls into if it detects anything other than stock. So what could happen is that your car (computer) gets stuck in the "slow" mode, and your mods are not being utilized correctly.

 

Your numbers are way better than mine, go figure . UTEC HERE I COME!!!!!!

Next year I will try the ECU reset, car is in winter storage now, though I never really held much faith in the ECU resets. Anyone with all these mods try the ECU reset method, and felt REAL gains (dyno), aside from butt dyno?