Help with brake pulse
I'll start out with a confession. I'm an aggressive braker. Always have been.
As a result, every car I've ever driven has ended up with warped rotors, and the car shakes when braking.
My 07 G35x started doing it at around 9000 miles, and has gotten progressively worse. The shaking is very dramatic when slowing from 135 mph, but still bothersome when slowing from only 50 mph (luxury cars arent supposed to shake when slowing down, neither are sports cars).
My previous cars I've owned were repaired under warranty so it was never really a problem (all were GM cars). But the closest Infiniti dealer is about 150 miles away. I actually brought the car to them once, and they told me they didn't notice any problems with the brakes, so they did nothing. My concern is that they don't brake as aggressively as I, so they don't notice the brakes pulse.
So I'd like input on what I should do. I'm considering some better, sportier rotors. Would this likely solve my problems?
And yes, the obvious solution is to not brake so hard. But I was racing motocross before I learned how to drive, so this seems to be a deeply seeded problem that I can't seem to rewire in my brain. Go fast, stop fast.
Thanks for any input.
As a result, every car I've ever driven has ended up with warped rotors, and the car shakes when braking.
My 07 G35x started doing it at around 9000 miles, and has gotten progressively worse. The shaking is very dramatic when slowing from 135 mph, but still bothersome when slowing from only 50 mph (luxury cars arent supposed to shake when slowing down, neither are sports cars).
My previous cars I've owned were repaired under warranty so it was never really a problem (all were GM cars). But the closest Infiniti dealer is about 150 miles away. I actually brought the car to them once, and they told me they didn't notice any problems with the brakes, so they did nothing. My concern is that they don't brake as aggressively as I, so they don't notice the brakes pulse.
So I'd like input on what I should do. I'm considering some better, sportier rotors. Would this likely solve my problems?
And yes, the obvious solution is to not brake so hard. But I was racing motocross before I learned how to drive, so this seems to be a deeply seeded problem that I can't seem to rewire in my brain. Go fast, stop fast.
Thanks for any input.
I certainly could take a tech for a drive. And they might even fix it for me, but it's nearly a 2 hour drive to the dealer, which I'm kinda looking to avoid. If it was a 1 time thing, that would be fine, but it's only a matter of time before I have to go back (at least with my previous experiences).
Sorry I don't know the lingo, but whats a bbl?
Sorry I don't know the lingo, but whats a bbl?
Yeah I mean everything, Calipers rotors etc. Are you using total stock set up? Since you brake so much maybe you should get the steal brake liners and high temp brake fluids. You might be overheating your brakes too much, and if you do loads of heavy braking do not put the handbrake on when you stop the car it will push the pads against your really hot rotors and could heat up the brake fluid too much.
Trending Topics
I don't think I'm so aggressive that I need lines and everything. Afterall, this is just my normal day to day driving. I don't drive like I'm racing, and I just stop quicker than most people.
But thanks, I'll see what I can find for some bbk.
But thanks, I'll see what I can find for some bbk.
ur heating them up too quick.
higher quality rotors would work.
the next step it bigger rotors and bigger calipers.
i would try just better rotors and pads right now.
if you go to a BBK u will prob need new rims as well to fit over the bigger calipers.
you could try down shifting more, that will take a good chunk of energy off of the brakes
down shift to about 5k rpms while braking.
higher quality rotors would work.
the next step it bigger rotors and bigger calipers.
i would try just better rotors and pads right now.
if you go to a BBK u will prob need new rims as well to fit over the bigger calipers.
you could try down shifting more, that will take a good chunk of energy off of the brakes
down shift to about 5k rpms while braking.
cermaic/kevlar pads should be better in your situation as they start transferring pad material at much higher temps than regular... and rilled/slotted rotors to allow them to cool faster...
I had the same problem at 15K and drove the 160 miles to have the dealer fix them under warranty. And I don't drive or brake aggressively.
I have heard that some G's have had problems with warping.
I have heard that some G's have had problems with warping.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





