You know what? I eventually found out that the rotors were not the culprit, at least on my 2k2. It was the darned OEM pads.

It's hard finding aftermarket pads for the S, Hawk just came out with the HPS and Ceramics, or at least there are part numbers for it, but i haven't been able to find a shop that actually has them in stock. I'm right at the 28k mark myself, although my pads are still in pretty good shape.

Here's the spec for the rotors mentioned earlier, by the way.

 

Make sure you take your G to a place that does quality rotor resurfacing. I took mine to a place that I thought was a good place but the a$$hole ruined one of my rotors!

 

usually a "warped" rotor is a rotor with a sticky section of baked on brake pad from where you heated up the pads and then came to a dead stop. this should be avoided. always let the car roll a bit when stopping with hot pads.

if your lug nuts are over torqued by twice the spec, the lug bolts and nuts should be replaced at the expense of the monkey who used a full power impact wrench to over tighten them. this is because over tightening by that much stretches the metal and fatigues it setting you up for catastrophic failure down the road.

always check your wheel nut torque with your own torque wrench if possible after having a shop work on them.

next time you have symptoms of a warped rotor, try resurfacing the rotor with light grit sand paper and see if your problem goes away. this would indicate you just had sticky pad residue on the rotor and no warpage at all.

if one rotor keeps going bad, you probably have a partially stuck caliper that needs caliper grease.

i find it very difficult to actually warp a rotor of decent design if the lug nuts are torqued correctly and front to back brake bias is correct with all brakes working equally.

amp