Replacing calipers, how to?

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Old Aug 14, 2009 | 09:03 AM
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Replacing calipers, how to?

Does anyone have recommendations or tips on how to keep the fluid from getting all over the place when replacing calipers?

I have OEM lines, would it be okay to just pinch it shut, or is there a better way to stop the flow? Is there an actual tool that does the job without compromising the integrity of the lines?

I could theoretically just drain all the fluid out, but would rather not go there and completely empty out the MC.

On a similar note, what's the best way to trim the dust shield? I have a rotary tool if that helps.

Thanks.
- Mike
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 07:30 AM
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Anyone?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 09:14 AM
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yeah u can just pinch the lines.. just not too hard.. and yes there is an acutal tool.. u can buy something like this.. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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might as well switch over to stainless braided lines while your in there. i agree with the above though... not too hard!.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 11:18 AM
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Most of the fluid is going to leak from the fixed lines on the car, not just the one attached to the caliper. I always place a small plastic bowl under each corner when removing the lines so all the fluid just drips into it.

As for the dust shield, you can use a good set of tin snips and cut away at it fairly easy. You will have to get in there and cut a little additional on the rear if you are installing a BBK so the new calipers will clear. You can do the same up front but I always remove the hub and just pop the shield out.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 11:21 AM
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Thanks guys, so it won't harm the lines at all by pinching them?

The lines are fairly new and in great condition, so no SS for now.

Any ideas on whether a Dremel with cutting disc can cut through the shields?

Thank you.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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Let gravity do the work. Sit the calipers so the line stays in a up position. There really isn't alot of fluid in the lines. Most of it is in the caliper itself.

You can use a dremel with a cutting wheel but you are going to be there for a while. Spend the $15 on a set of tin snips.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 12:45 PM
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I just use a rubber cap to cap off the hard-line, and disconnect the line there. You can usually search around and find one that will fit over the threaded part of the hard line. The Stoptech kit I had, had rubber caps on the bleed valves on the calipers, and they fit over the threaded part of the hard-line.

I would remove the caliper, place a plastic tray under it, and then disconnect the brake-line where the soft-line and hard-line meet, and cap the hard-line with a rubber cap. This prevents any fluid from leaving the system, and will prevent the master cylinder from loosing too much fluid. The plastic tray would catch any fluid from the line attached to the caliper. I would not let the MC drain all the way. It is a big PITA, try to keep enough fluid in there.....

And, I agree, a Dremel will take forever on the dust shield. Either use tin snips, or remove the hub assembly and remove the dust shield altogether. The dust shield is sandwiched in the hub assembly, and there are bolts at the back of the hub/knuckle you can remove to remove the hub, and get the shield out. If you really want to do it right, you can get the larger dust shields for the 09 Sport package brakes and install them in place of the current dust shields.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 01:29 PM
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Thanks everyone, your responses have certainly helped!

I was contemplating on replacing dust shields, but if any it'll just be the fronts. I've heard the rears are really tough to get out.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 02:27 PM
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You HAVE to do SS lines when you're in there. They'll make the biggest difference as far as pedal feel and will only cost you an extra 150 or so.
 
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