So I've made a final decision to do my brakes myself.... Anyone have done their brakes themselves on a 2007 G35x?

I have some questions if anyone cares to answer that would be much appreciated:

1. Is it easy? (I'm planning on doing rears and fronts replacing all rotors and pads)

2. What brand of rotors and pads give the same and if not, exceeds OEM brakes? and what brand should i buy (I want OEM performance or better)?

3. Any pictures available of the '07 G35x brakes (around the internet, forums, etc)?

4. Should I expect anything out of the ordinary?

5. What about brake fluid? Can i buy just any DOT 3 type brake fluid?

6. And lastly, what do i with the E-brake? Do I just leave it alone during the brake job? or does it need to be adjusted (so i can take rotors off??? ) if so, how is that done?

This will be my first time doing my own brake job (With a buddy junior mechanic)...but i've watched many youtube vids and it seems pretty easy.. lol..

Thanks for the input guys

 

Other than the comments i posted in your other thread...

1. It's relatively easy, just takes time and preferably the proper tools. If you're replacing the rotors, soak the torque member bolts and hub area with PB blaster a day before doing the job. And get a rubber mallet if you decide to use the "bang" method for removing the rotors.

2. It's personal preference. Aftermarket pads may or may not be noisier, some bite better when hot but not so much at ambient, may or may not dust more, etc... For daily driving OEM is still the best IMHO (except in some situations where it tends to unevenly transfer pad material to the rotors leading to "warped rotor" syndrome). Rotors are the same way, slots and holes are mostly cosmetic and again for daily driving doesn't do anything in terms of performance.

4. None that i can think of except when you take the calipers off make sure you hang or lay it down securely *without* putting pressure on the brake lines. That is, don't let the calipers hang on the brake lines.

5. Pretty much any DOT 3 or 4, even 5.1, will work. Just note that generally the higher the temperature rating the more hygroscopic it becomes and may require more frequent changes.

6. For simple pad/rotor changes, you shouldn't have to adjust the e-brake. Just make sure it's disengaged before you attempt to take the rotors off.

 

oh yeah...woops...i forgot i posted this earlier :/ Sorry. Though my other thread was a little more general in terms of questions hehe. But thanks for the responses again soundmike , I very much appreciate any input

 

No problemo

One more thing... when bleeding the brakes, the FSM recommends disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery or the ABS actuators. Shops around here never do it, i've had my brakes bled under warranty without the disconnect and it seems to work just fine. I don't know, however, if there are hidden repercussions.

 

O.o.... what do you mean by "bleeding" the brakes? I thought I just unscrew a few bolts and take out old rotors/pads and pop in new ones... lol..

 

^ They need to be bled when changing the fluid
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-p...e-bleeding.htm

 

ohh.. I guess for question 5 was... Do i need to do anything with brake fluid? I noticed in some youtube vids that they tell me to pop the cap off the reservoir? or can i just leave it on when i'm doing the brake job?