My specs after an alignment (Eibach drop & Rear Camber kit)... your thoughts!
My specs after an alignment (Eibach drop & Rear Camber kit)... your thoughts!
Guys your thoughts....
So I had my alignment done this morning. An eibach rear camber kit was installed. No front camber kit. The specs as follows:
Front Left:
Camber -1.61
Toe .04
Front Right:
Camber -1.66
Toe .05
Rear Left:
Camber -1.14
Toe .12
Rear Right:
Camber -1.74
Toe 0.11
Is this gonna be relatively okay from a tire wear standpoint? I went to a very reputable alignment shop and this was the best that can be achieved.
Arguably, I could have had the eibach toe bolts installed as well to properly correct the toe and bring back the camber closer to spec on the rear, but the problem with that is, the rear subframe would have required some shaving to properly fit the bolts in. And I didnt wanna do that cuz its irreversible.
Whats the recommended stock specifications anyway?
I havent really had a chance to really give the car a good test drive after the alignment yet, but it does feel good. The mechanic said I should be able to corner like Mother*****. lol
Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
So I had my alignment done this morning. An eibach rear camber kit was installed. No front camber kit. The specs as follows:
Front Left:
Camber -1.61
Toe .04
Front Right:
Camber -1.66
Toe .05
Rear Left:
Camber -1.14
Toe .12
Rear Right:
Camber -1.74
Toe 0.11
Is this gonna be relatively okay from a tire wear standpoint? I went to a very reputable alignment shop and this was the best that can be achieved.
Arguably, I could have had the eibach toe bolts installed as well to properly correct the toe and bring back the camber closer to spec on the rear, but the problem with that is, the rear subframe would have required some shaving to properly fit the bolts in. And I didnt wanna do that cuz its irreversible.
Whats the recommended stock specifications anyway?
I havent really had a chance to really give the car a good test drive after the alignment yet, but it does feel good. The mechanic said I should be able to corner like Mother*****. lol
Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
I have a G35xS too and im also dropped on eibach springs and my specs are as follows without a camber/toe bolt kit.
Front left
camber: -1.70
toe: .01
front right
camber: -1.70
toe: .03
rear left
camber: -1.85
toe: .02
rear right
camber: -1.85
toe: .03
I think you should be fine in the tire wear department. i have had my car lowered for about 10,000 miles and the tires on my 20" wheels show very minimal sign of camber/ toe wear. yes the car will corner like a mother ****er especially if you have the GTspec 6 point brace, front strut bar etc... how do you like the drop so far and so you think that it was worth it or not.
Front left
camber: -1.70
toe: .01
front right
camber: -1.70
toe: .03
rear left
camber: -1.85
toe: .02
rear right
camber: -1.85
toe: .03
I think you should be fine in the tire wear department. i have had my car lowered for about 10,000 miles and the tires on my 20" wheels show very minimal sign of camber/ toe wear. yes the car will corner like a mother ****er especially if you have the GTspec 6 point brace, front strut bar etc... how do you like the drop so far and so you think that it was worth it or not.
Is this right? The left rear is -1.14 and the right rear is -1.74? I would imagine that they should be almost identical...
I also just installed an Eibach rear camber kit (nothing on the front) and after getting it aligned I am at -1.30 in the rear. Your alignment sheet should show the manufacturer recommended specs, I believe they are -1.1 to 0.4 for the front and -1.3 to -0.3 for the rear (please correct me if I'm wrong).
I also just installed an Eibach rear camber kit (nothing on the front) and after getting it aligned I am at -1.30 in the rear. Your alignment sheet should show the manufacturer recommended specs, I believe they are -1.1 to 0.4 for the front and -1.3 to -0.3 for the rear (please correct me if I'm wrong).
Also, I had approx 1.6 degrees of camber on my front. After 25k miles on my Falken FK452 (I didn't bother with dismounting/mounting these directional tires side to side on a regular basis to maximize tire life), the first 1.5" of inner tread is completely gone, where the rest of the tire is fine. Bad mistake. I learned my lesson and got front camber arms. I know Terrycs would say the same.
I have a G35xS too and im also dropped on eibach springs and my specs are as follows without a camber/toe bolt kit.
Front left
camber: -1.70
toe: .01
front right
camber: -1.70
toe: .03
rear left
camber: -1.85
toe: .02
rear right
camber: -1.85
toe: .03
I think you should be fine in the tire wear department. i have had my car lowered for about 10,000 miles and the tires on my 20" wheels show very minimal sign of camber/ toe wear. yes the car will corner like a mother ****er especially if you have the GTspec 6 point brace, front strut bar etc... how do you like the drop so far and so you think that it was worth it or not.
Front left
camber: -1.70
toe: .01
front right
camber: -1.70
toe: .03
rear left
camber: -1.85
toe: .02
rear right
camber: -1.85
toe: .03
I think you should be fine in the tire wear department. i have had my car lowered for about 10,000 miles and the tires on my 20" wheels show very minimal sign of camber/ toe wear. yes the car will corner like a mother ****er especially if you have the GTspec 6 point brace, front strut bar etc... how do you like the drop so far and so you think that it was worth it or not.
ACTUALLY, iirc, per the factory service manual, nominal front toe is 0.04 and rear toe is 0.12.
Also, I had approx 1.6 degrees of camber on my front. After 25k miles on my Falken FK452 (I didn't bother with dismounting/mounting these directional tires side to side on a regular basis to maximize tire life), the first 1.5" of inner tread is completely gone, where the rest of the tire is fine. Bad mistake. I learned my lesson and got front camber arms. I know Terrycs would say the same.
Also, I had approx 1.6 degrees of camber on my front. After 25k miles on my Falken FK452 (I didn't bother with dismounting/mounting these directional tires side to side on a regular basis to maximize tire life), the first 1.5" of inner tread is completely gone, where the rest of the tire is fine. Bad mistake. I learned my lesson and got front camber arms. I know Terrycs would say the same.
1) What did you set your toe at then?
2) Why is everyone saying make your toe as close to zero as possible if those are the recommended specs?
I may consider the front camber kit if I begin experiencing the same issue in the future.
Is this right? The left rear is -1.14 and the right rear is -1.74? I would imagine that they should be almost identical...
I also just installed an Eibach rear camber kit (nothing on the front) and after getting it aligned I am at -1.30 in the rear. Your alignment sheet should show the manufacturer recommended specs, I believe they are -1.1 to 0.4 for the front and -1.3 to -0.3 for the rear (please correct me if I'm wrong).
I also just installed an Eibach rear camber kit (nothing on the front) and after getting it aligned I am at -1.30 in the rear. Your alignment sheet should show the manufacturer recommended specs, I believe they are -1.1 to 0.4 for the front and -1.3 to -0.3 for the rear (please correct me if I'm wrong).
Did you install the toe bolts as well? or just the camber arms?
What toe did you result with at the rears?
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Thanks for the input sunny. I love the drop. There is no doubt about it. But the process of lowering my car became a huge fiasco (without getting into detail). And its not yet even done as a result of the poor alignment job I got it would seem.
Thats the factory recommended toe settings? Interesting.. two questions for ya.
1) What did you set your toe at then?
2) Why is everyone saying make your toe as close to zero as possible if those are the recommended specs?
I may consider the front camber kit if I begin experiencing the same issue in the future.
Thats the factory recommended toe settings? Interesting.. two questions for ya.
1) What did you set your toe at then?
2) Why is everyone saying make your toe as close to zero as possible if those are the recommended specs?
I may consider the front camber kit if I begin experiencing the same issue in the future.
From my experience, most places just zero the toe--they don't even bother with the camber. That may be even more true with aftermarket parts. I know when I installed my camber arms, I made sure they were the same length and had some camber correction. I doubt the alignment place even messed with my camber. I also think you should install the toe bolts--no reason not too. The install is pretty straight forward.
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 21,095
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From: Toronto, GTA north
Most shops will try to correct to factory spec unless you tell them what to do.
That looks like what they did here.
The only thing that is a little weird is that rear camber.
They may be maxed out because of the drop, but I would still prefer that they be matched (bring one of them back).
^ That said....
With a drop & no camber correction I would have had them take more toe out.
If you reduce the toe it will help tire wear (w/o camber correction)
That looks like what they did here.
The only thing that is a little weird is that rear camber.
They may be maxed out because of the drop, but I would still prefer that they be matched (bring one of them back).
^ That said....
With a drop & no camber correction I would have had them take more toe out.
If you reduce the toe it will help tire wear (w/o camber correction)
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