Hello all,

It's time for my first brake pad change on my '07 G35x. I've only got 34k miles and at my 30k maintenance appt, my dealer indicated a brake pad change was in my near future. I can hear the squealers now. I've decided to make this a DIY as I have experience changing pads on my 2 previous cars ('89 Pontiac Bonneville SSE, '94 Nissan Altima GXE) and I find that paying for brake work is one of the most astronomical rip-offs at repair shops. Hopefully all goes well. From what I've read here, you guys have it down which is a good feeling.

After much researching for a good set of replacement pads, I have settled on Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads and they will be arriving in the mail tomorrow.

After reading through many posts about DIY brake work on our G model (most useful ones on this site), one thing is still unclear to me. My rotors seem to be in great condition still (no juddering, hammering, etc, when braking) so I was hoping to keep my old rotors and just swap out the pads. However, when reading about "bedding" (which I've never done with any of my cars), I've been told or have read several different things and wanted to get some solid opinions. Some things I've read or been told:

1. To properly bed the Hawk pads, I'd have to get my old rotors turned since the only way to prep them for bedding the new pads is to turn them. However, turned rotors are more susceptible to warping since they're thinner, if even only slightly.
2. To properly bed the Hawk pads, I'd have to buy new rotors. However, there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with my old rotors. I can't seem to justify this.
3. I won't get my money's worth out of the Hawk pads if I don't either turn or replace my rotors.

I'd like to have better stopping power than the OEM pads. Whether or not this requires a proper "bedding" is what is unclear to me.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your time.

 

Straight from Hawk, for the ceramics:

The purpose of prepping the rotors is, as mentioned, contamination. Most often when one replaces pads it's of the same material (i.e. OEM to OEM), so people don't do it. I'm not sure what you have on right now, but if it's not ceramic then it's better if you do prep the rotors accordingly.

 

soundmike,

That's good news. Thanks for posting that.

The pads on right now are whatever came with the car as new. This is the first brake change. I'm guessing it's not typical that original brakes be ceramic so it looks as if I'll benefit from the sandpaper approach.

What are your thoughts on leaving the rotors on while sandpapering and washing them?

 

i think oem were semi-mettalic

 

^ They are. Another alternative to sanding rotors (if not wanting to DIY) is to ask the shop to machine the slimmest margin off rotors.

 

Thanks guys. Any idea how I'd know when to stop sanding? Currently the rotors have a shiny glazed look.

Hawk recommends 130 grit sandpaper but my local hardware store only had 150 and 120. I bought both types and thought I'd start with 150 and see how it works.

 

usually cris/cross until the glaze goes away..or the shine goes away..

 

check this out - when I did my 06 brake upgrade - check out how the one on the right looks like..

 

I see the crosshatch pattern. That's what I'll aim for. Thanks for the pic.

How complicated is it to remove the rotors? Is it just a matter of removing the caliper and caliper mount? Any special screws/bolts to remove other than the obvious? I was thinking about leaving the rotors on while I sanded them but it seems like it's best done with them off.

 

When done sanding the rotor, hold it up to the light. If you can see through it, you went too far.

Disclaimer: personal opinion follows.....I would probably have a skim cut on the rotors, just to make sure they are smooth and true. I think bedding pads is overrated. Just get in and drive. Make sure your first half-dozen stops are somewhat normal.

Mike

 

I usually do 4 good 60mph to 20mph (no stopping ALL the way) hard braking...after that - you should be fine ...and be smart about it - hit up the highway but dont get on and stay on the frontage when no one is around you..

 

Thanks guys. I've read on other threads that the caliper bolts require a hex key. Anyone know what size by chance?

 

It's funny how we get the brake judder, then when we decide to go AM pads/rotor and some folks are suggesting that the break-in (bedding) as suggested by the manufacturer is over-rated. Seriously? And we wonder why this is a recurring problem. Maybe Infiniti has a break-in proceedure too for pads/rotors and nobody follows. (not likely)

As as side note, my 04 G35, 04 Titan LE all had premature brake problems. Titan was the worst for judder after 4k miles of new pads/rotors. Nissan admitted there was a problem and was in the process (at that time) of manufacturing new rotors. Rumours had it that the Frontier's rotor was used on the Titan. Nissan/Inf sucks when it comes to brakes. When will they get it right?

 

^ luck of draw, IMHO, or something else is amiss. Between all the Nissan's we've owned -- Pathfinder, Xterra, two Maxima's, Murano and the G, none have yet to experience any premature brake wear and/or rotor warping. Uneven oem pad deposits? yes. Warped rotors? nope.

 

As gtbigup said nissan had a big rotor problem back in 04 and had to accept it somewhat and in mid 2004 or basically 2004.5 models they swapped out to new rotors. I truly think that considering all the complains on the rotors, nissan/infin rotors are not of any high quality. Especially my 05 FX35(build 04 so has old rotor design) had same and annoying brake issues, switched to R1 rotors after good experience on G and have been happy since with no juddering or shaking.