Thoughts on this brake setup (R1)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 29
From: St. Louis, MO
Thoughts on this brake setup (R1)
I dont like the warping of the stock rotors and the squealing of the pads. Not looking for super performance, just something to swap out the oem with. Looking at the R1 Premium blanks with Posi Quiet Ceramics at all 4 corners. can get the whole set for $360 shipped. Thoughts? Do i need to upgrade the lines as well?
Last edited by bat6wc; Jun 24, 2012 at 12:36 AM.
Well, you really don't NEED the lines, but eventually you'll probably end wishing you did them if you skip such a simple mod. If nothing else, it's a good excuse to flush out the fluid.
^ the install is REALLY easy, for the front once u get the wheel off, just pop of the rubber plug covering the hex bolt on the bottom of the caliper, the remove the hex bolt and the caliper swings up and then you just remove the 'spring' retaining clips and then just pull the pads out and put the new ones in. for rear its same except its a regular bolt if i remember right
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 29
From: St. Louis, MO
^ the install is REALLY easy, for the front once u get the wheel off, just pop of the rubber plug covering the hex bolt on the bottom of the caliper, the remove the hex bolt and the caliper swings up and then you just remove the 'spring' retaining clips and then just pull the pads out and put the new ones in. for rear its same except its a regular bolt if i remember right
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 29
From: St. Louis, MO
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Ya they are 'scorched' so all impurities are removed beforehand but a moderate breakin should only help.
The rotors are not that bad either, just like any other car....
1) once you get the caliper off(one hex bolt on bottom and then a regular bolt on top and the caliper should come off with some wiggling)
2) Open the brake master cylinder cap and wrap a cloth outside the container to catch any brake fluid overflow(if any) from when you push the piston back using a c-clamp and old pad.
3) Then there are just 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket to the car, get those off and then just a few blows of a hammer on the rotor and it comes right off.
4) same for rear except make sure you release the hand/foot brake and then this requires a few extra blow from a rubber hammer on the hat of the rotor to come off
(IF it doesnt budge then remove the small rubber grommet on the rotor and using a flat head screw driver turn the star wheel inside to loosen the parking brakes form the rotors and remember the number of turns/clicks so you can tighten to same specs after)
Might sound like a lot but its not that bad, basically taking off 4 bolts(2 caliper and 2 for the bracket on each rotor) and then hammer it or wiggle it off.
hope it helps
The rotors are not that bad either, just like any other car....
1) once you get the caliper off(one hex bolt on bottom and then a regular bolt on top and the caliper should come off with some wiggling)
2) Open the brake master cylinder cap and wrap a cloth outside the container to catch any brake fluid overflow(if any) from when you push the piston back using a c-clamp and old pad.
3) Then there are just 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket to the car, get those off and then just a few blows of a hammer on the rotor and it comes right off.
4) same for rear except make sure you release the hand/foot brake and then this requires a few extra blow from a rubber hammer on the hat of the rotor to come off
(IF it doesnt budge then remove the small rubber grommet on the rotor and using a flat head screw driver turn the star wheel inside to loosen the parking brakes form the rotors and remember the number of turns/clicks so you can tighten to same specs after)
Might sound like a lot but its not that bad, basically taking off 4 bolts(2 caliper and 2 for the bracket on each rotor) and then hammer it or wiggle it off.
hope it helps
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 29
From: St. Louis, MO
Ya they are 'scorched' so all impurities are removed beforehand but a moderate breakin should only help.
The rotors are not that bad either, just like any other car....
1) once you get the caliper off(one hex bolt on bottom and then a regular bolt on top and the caliper should come off with some wiggling)
2) Open the brake master cylinder cap and wrap a cloth outside the container to catch any brake fluid overflow(if any) from when you push the piston back using a c-clamp and old pad.
3) Then there are just 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket to the car, get those off and then just a few blows of a hammer on the rotor and it comes right off.
4) same for rear except make sure you release the hand/foot brake and then this requires a few extra blow from a rubber hammer on the hat of the rotor to come off
(IF it doesnt budge then remove the small rubber grommet on the rotor and using a flat head screw driver turn the star wheel inside to loosen the parking brakes form the rotors and remember the number of turns/clicks so you can tighten to same specs after)
Might sound like a lot but its not that bad, basically taking off 4 bolts(2 caliper and 2 for the bracket on each rotor) and then hammer it or wiggle it off.
hope it helps
The rotors are not that bad either, just like any other car....
1) once you get the caliper off(one hex bolt on bottom and then a regular bolt on top and the caliper should come off with some wiggling)
2) Open the brake master cylinder cap and wrap a cloth outside the container to catch any brake fluid overflow(if any) from when you push the piston back using a c-clamp and old pad.
3) Then there are just 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket to the car, get those off and then just a few blows of a hammer on the rotor and it comes right off.
4) same for rear except make sure you release the hand/foot brake and then this requires a few extra blow from a rubber hammer on the hat of the rotor to come off
(IF it doesnt budge then remove the small rubber grommet on the rotor and using a flat head screw driver turn the star wheel inside to loosen the parking brakes form the rotors and remember the number of turns/clicks so you can tighten to same specs after)
Might sound like a lot but its not that bad, basically taking off 4 bolts(2 caliper and 2 for the bracket on each rotor) and then hammer it or wiggle it off.
hope it helps
so after the caliper and bracket are removed, the rotor should just come off with a couple soft hammer blows?
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 29
From: St. Louis, MO
did it wed. big difference. glad i finally got rid of the oem pads and rotors. no more judder, no more squealing, good stopping.
^ just read your comment about the second step now since i dont visit this section a lot, but glad you got it done!
Just make sure you follow the brake in process exactly as listed on the instructions sent by R1 and allow enough time for teh cool down after the break-in process
Just make sure you follow the brake in process exactly as listed on the instructions sent by R1 and allow enough time for teh cool down after the break-in process
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 29
From: St. Louis, MO
^ just read your comment about the second step now since i dont visit this section a lot, but glad you got it done!
Just make sure you follow the brake in process exactly as listed on the instructions sent by R1 and allow enough time for teh cool down after the break-in process
Just make sure you follow the brake in process exactly as listed on the instructions sent by R1 and allow enough time for teh cool down after the break-in process
I finally ordered replacements for my ebay front rotors...and mostly due to your good experience I chose R1Concepts premium D/S and posiquiet pads. Just ordered them a few minutes ago. I hope they work as well for me as they have for you.
I'll update my ebay rotor thread once I get the R1 rotors.


