So, I recently purchased a set of slotted/dimpled rotors from brakeperformance.com and was playing with the idea of switching them out myself. I've replaced brake pads before as part of my amateur mechanic resume, however, would this be a bigger job?

Is it worth it to pay my shop $110/axle to install the rotors/brakes?

Anyone have experience doing this on our sedans?

 

You need to remove the caliper mount to remove the rotor. They are on tighter but penetrating oil and a breaker bar should do the trick. Otherwise the job is pretty straight forward. Definitely within the realm of DIY for most.

 

It's doable, but like all DIY, if you have never done it before, it's going to be a task honestly. No matter what how many times someone wills ay it's easy. It's reall not that really easy the first time you do it. if you have the patience, then go ahead.

 

+1

I always assume something will go wrong when working on the car, even if it's something I've done quite a bit.

 

I'd say good for it. Pretty much a swapping process.

 

You've done pads before, rotors are only a couple more bolts. You'll enjoy saving $220 and you'll continue saving money for the rest of your life as you do this over and over again. I'll never forget my dad forcing me to change oil on my '94 Geo Metro. I thought what a waste of my time and it doesn't cost much to just have someone else do it. After a few years of that, I enjoyed it and wouldn't let anyone touch my car unless it was absolutely necessary.

I consider a $5-10 breaker bar to be a necessity for getting the caliper arm bolts off. Pipe over a socket wrench works fine in a pinch as well. Here's bythebay's DIY for 1st gen sedan rear brakes. There really aren't many variations between models, it's pretty elementary stuff.
http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p..._procedure.php

 

110/axle sounds too much. I will do it for half that infinitihelp.com might have some help.

 

Only a DIY if you feel comfortable, for safe measure grab a friend or two who know about what you're doing and ask for some help.

-Nick

 

If you can change the pads you can change the rotors. Make sure to rent a torque wrench and torque all the bolts back to spec, if you have trouble getting the bolts off PB Blaster is your best friend.

 

Okay, I started on the front brakes: I had the pads removed, and the caliper fully removed and hanging safely (i.e. not by the brake line). So it was just me and the rotor...I took a pretty big hammer and started hitting the rotor (padding with a towel so I wasn't hitting the rotor directly)...a bunch of rust fell from the rotor area, but I could not get the rotor off. Is there a secret? Do I need a bigger hammer (i.e. sledge) to knock the rotor loose? Did I fail to remove a bolt? Help!!! Thanks

Ground Beef

 

Try some PB on the hub area.

Subaru's have a threaded hole that is M8 x 1.25 thread - you can jack the rotor off the hub. I have not looked at the G/Z rotors to see but do they have one?

 

Make sure you turn the rotor and then hammer on it. If you don't turn the rotor and only hammer on it in the one spot where the dust shield isn't blocking you, it won't come off. Here's bythebay's vid showing him struggling with the same thing. Rubber mallet does make this a lot easier so you don't cringe when swinging hard.

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p..._procedure.php

 

Yes, the G rotors do have an 'extra hole' on the rotor, there used to be a screw in there (I removed it), I was told it was used somehow in the process of putting on the rotor/wheel assembly or something to that effect. So, if I'm understanding correctly, you're suggesting that I just run a screw in there and essentially push the rotor off with a screw? I may give that a try.

 

Unfortunately no.

That screw holds the rotor on while you assemble the car so the rotor does not flop around while you put on the caliper. (In the factory especially when it's all new and they build fast of course)

It's not needed once the wheel is on because that is what holds the rotor on so you don't need to replace it when doing your install if it's rusty/stripped.

So a screw just threads in that one - it won't move the rotor.

Some cars have a threaded hole in the rotor so that you can push the rotor off the hub.

If you don't - then use some PB Blaster around the hub and hammer/rotor the rotor around. It should break loose after a few tries. I would suggest ear protection - it's loud.

Northeast and similar cars w/ several winters on brakes can be a real tough job. God luck and be patient - PB is your friend.

 

Thanks for the advice KNSBrakes! I'm going to try to tackle it again this week.