Rack and Pinion Leak
Rack and Pinion Leak
My rack and pinion looks like it leaking from the boots of both tie rods. Is this fixable or do I need to replace the whole rack and pinion? Also does the bolt next to the driver side tie rod leak? If so I think that might be whats leaking instead. Just hard for tell if its splatter from the boot or just leaking from that bolt.
Is the fluid level in your power steering reservoir dropping? It might not be a power steering rack leaking but rather a component above it. I've had limited short term success with power steering fluid leak stopper. Use a turkey baster to suck fluid out of the reservoir and replace with stop leak. It'll buy you a few months and give you time to replace the unit, I've never seen a pump damaged by power steering fluid stop leak.
That's the adjustment nut for setting the pinion rotating torque during initial assembly. I don't think there's a seal behind it but I haven't had the R&P for this vehicle taken apart (yet...), I do know it's common practice for there to be threadlocker on it to keep it from turning and help seal it.
Let me ask you a question, does your steering feel REALLY loose? It's possible you already have a remanufactured unit and they didn't apply thread locker and it's backing off, your steering would feel super loose though, there should be a little bit of resistance to it but the generic rule of thumb for "drive adjusting" the R&P is you tighten it up to the point where the car will still straighten itself normally through a slow corner. If it doesn't try to straighten itself quickly it's too tight. If it snaps straight super fast it's too loose.
You can sort of eyeball that value by lifting the front of the vehicle up and feeling how much tension is on it with the engine off while you turn the wheel. Should be some drag but not much.
However if you're leaking from the side seals as well then you just need to either rebuild the unit or buy a reman(ufactured) one.
Let me ask you a question, does your steering feel REALLY loose? It's possible you already have a remanufactured unit and they didn't apply thread locker and it's backing off, your steering would feel super loose though, there should be a little bit of resistance to it but the generic rule of thumb for "drive adjusting" the R&P is you tighten it up to the point where the car will still straighten itself normally through a slow corner. If it doesn't try to straighten itself quickly it's too tight. If it snaps straight super fast it's too loose.
You can sort of eyeball that value by lifting the front of the vehicle up and feeling how much tension is on it with the engine off while you turn the wheel. Should be some drag but not much.
However if you're leaking from the side seals as well then you just need to either rebuild the unit or buy a reman(ufactured) one.
That's the adjustment nut for setting the pinion rotating torque during initial assembly. I don't think there's a seal behind it but I haven't had the R&P for this vehicle taken apart (yet...), I do know it's common practice for there to be threadlocker on it to keep it from turning and help seal it.
Let me ask you a question, does your steering feel REALLY loose? It's possible you already have a remanufactured unit and they didn't apply thread locker and it's backing off, your steering would feel super loose though, there should be a little bit of resistance to it but the generic rule of thumb for "drive adjusting" the R&P is you tighten it up to the point where the car will still straighten itself normally through a slow corner. If it doesn't try to straighten itself quickly it's too tight. If it snaps straight super fast it's too loose.
You can sort of eyeball that value by lifting the front of the vehicle up and feeling how much tension is on it with the engine off while you turn the wheel. Should be some drag but not much.
However if you're leaking from the side seals as well then you just need to either rebuild the unit or buy a reman(ufactured) one.
Let me ask you a question, does your steering feel REALLY loose? It's possible you already have a remanufactured unit and they didn't apply thread locker and it's backing off, your steering would feel super loose though, there should be a little bit of resistance to it but the generic rule of thumb for "drive adjusting" the R&P is you tighten it up to the point where the car will still straighten itself normally through a slow corner. If it doesn't try to straighten itself quickly it's too tight. If it snaps straight super fast it's too loose.
You can sort of eyeball that value by lifting the front of the vehicle up and feeling how much tension is on it with the engine off while you turn the wheel. Should be some drag but not much.
However if you're leaking from the side seals as well then you just need to either rebuild the unit or buy a reman(ufactured) one.
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Another cause for stiff steering is the u-joint going into the R&P gets old and starts to bind up. You should spray it down VERY HEAVILY with some kind of lubricant like WD40 and see if your steering loosens up. If so then you should plan on replacing that u-joint when you put in the new R&P, it's really easy to do them both at the same time.
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Marlin
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
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Nov 15, 2009 12:14 AM








