DIY: Wheel spacer vibration fix
#49
Hey guys.....first post here. Just bought a pre-owned G37s M/T and have been doing a bit of mod research. One of the items I'd like to add to my car is the Ichiba 15mm or 20mm spacers. Some of the topics I have been reading on spacers have mentioned needing a camber kit to go with the spacers, namely H&R 20mm. A few questions...
1) Are the camber kits only required with H&R spacers AND if you lowered your car with H&R springs?
2) Any camber problems with Ichiba spacers??
Thanks!
1) Are the camber kits only required with H&R spacers AND if you lowered your car with H&R springs?
2) Any camber problems with Ichiba spacers??
Thanks!
Last edited by CooGAR; 12-18-2009 at 08:34 AM.
#50
Wes_888,
You raise a valid point: When you move your wheels outboard, you will get more dust and debris flying off tire tread sort of lightly sandblasting sides of your car. This is why certain areas of some vehicles, especially those that flare out like in front of rear wheels, there is clear stone guard film placed, to protect paint. From corrosion stand point, you have to really watch fender wheel opening hem flanges for nicks and chips and touch them up when you find any.
I run 2005 17" 350Z wheels with winter tires on them in winter and the offset is 15mm more outboard in front and about 11mm more outboard in rear. I noticed a few chips on wheel opening hem flange in spring time. I watched for more to occur during summer months, when I run stock wheels, stock offset, but none did so it probably does have something to do with tire tread being more outboard.
I will say, my car looks pretty tough with the way the winter wheels are positioned out board, just about perfectly flush with fenders. It has me thinking about getting 15mm Eibach wheel spacers for stock rims. When I put stock rims on last spring, they looked a bit goofy due to how they are more inboard than my winter wheels. the only concern is adding wheel spacers introduces more variation in axial alignment of wheel centerline to hub centerline. There is no way around this. This is what causes wheel vibration with some spacers.
You raise a valid point: When you move your wheels outboard, you will get more dust and debris flying off tire tread sort of lightly sandblasting sides of your car. This is why certain areas of some vehicles, especially those that flare out like in front of rear wheels, there is clear stone guard film placed, to protect paint. From corrosion stand point, you have to really watch fender wheel opening hem flanges for nicks and chips and touch them up when you find any.
I run 2005 17" 350Z wheels with winter tires on them in winter and the offset is 15mm more outboard in front and about 11mm more outboard in rear. I noticed a few chips on wheel opening hem flange in spring time. I watched for more to occur during summer months, when I run stock wheels, stock offset, but none did so it probably does have something to do with tire tread being more outboard.
I will say, my car looks pretty tough with the way the winter wheels are positioned out board, just about perfectly flush with fenders. It has me thinking about getting 15mm Eibach wheel spacers for stock rims. When I put stock rims on last spring, they looked a bit goofy due to how they are more inboard than my winter wheels. the only concern is adding wheel spacers introduces more variation in axial alignment of wheel centerline to hub centerline. There is no way around this. This is what causes wheel vibration with some spacers.
#51
So lately, I've started getting vibration at 70-80mph. I thought with the copper wire in there, it couldn't be the spacer but I wanted to rule them out. I was thinking maybe one of my wheels was out of balance with the crappy roads here in Cleveland. Removed the spacers (man are the wheels tucked in!) and sure enough the vibration is gone. So I guess it might be a good idea to replace that copper wire with a new one every once in a while. But man, I wish these Ichiba V2's were trouble free.
update: new #10 copper wires-->smooth as a baby's bottom once again! I've probably done about 8 wheel changes before I replaced the wires.
update: new #10 copper wires-->smooth as a baby's bottom once again! I've probably done about 8 wheel changes before I replaced the wires.
Last edited by mishmosh; 10-04-2010 at 02:02 PM.
#52
I am thrilled to report that the nasty shake I was experiencing between 68-78mph has been eliminated through the guidance of this DIY fix. Thanks to InTgr8r, cmo23, mishmosh, & wes888 for the advice! Such a good feeling to cruise through that speed range and not have the wheel & passenger seat tremble around.
#57
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