For those of you with Grounding kits. im assuming you disconnected the negative terminal on the battery before attacking this? the grounding kit has wires running to both these throttle bodies. i would hate for one of them to touch metal and cause a short.

 

ya thats a good observation and something ppl with GK should look out for. disconnecting the battery negative would be the safest option and then make sure that the battery neg terminal does not touch any metal.

 

Anyone have the part number for the gasket (07 G35X)? Maybe I missed it...

I picked up two today but they are black and not o-rings. They have the extra tab on them but the circumference is not smooth. Maybe that's how they are and I just can't tell from the pictures. I don't want to tear it apart though only to have to throw in the old o-rings.


EDIT

Throttle body gasket-adapter: 16175-JK21A for '08 (as per Mr. TG35S's earlier post which I missed)

 

^ yup like he said the new ones are black so i think u got the right ones.

 

So I just cleaned the TBs and the MAFs. The TBs were incredibly dirty (07 with 93.5k miles) and took quite a while to clean up. I disconnected the battery but did not disconnect the TB sensors.

After hooking everything back up and waiting an hour or so I took the car for a drive and did a few WOT. I noticed that the RPMs would oscillate pretty hard and this was most noticeable at idle and when braking (as the car would push a bit while I was slowing down).

It idles around 1800 rpm and then drops down to 1200 rpm (sounding like it's dying) and then back up to 1800 rpm again. It'll sit at 1800 rpm for a second or two and then repeat. Prior to the cleaning the idle was pretty high (1200+rpm)

I also got an SES after getting home and deciding to try the reset (prior to reset).

Any ideas what is going on? Am I doing the reset wrong? Bigger problems?

[youtube]8AZlUqNCYjE[/youtube]

 

Try this procedure if you haven't already >>

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

 

Yes I did.

I'm also confused by that one and the one where you repeat that twice in a row (is there an actual difference?) Either way, I did the whole process described earlier in the thread... Still no luck.

I'm going to try pulling the battery and repeating.... I really don't want to pull the TBs off again and check them!

 

Well many that have had this problem after cleaning TB had it work out just fine after a few hrs of driving with some WOT from what i recall. Disconnecting the battery for over 10mins resets the ECU memory on your driving habbits and the car always tends to feel more aggressive(quick changes in rpm/raw shifting etc) which should be back to normal within a few a days of your normal driving.

 

I still fail to understand why ppl get different results following the same DIY instructions, maybe there is something a miss when done by some bu i followed Q8Y's instructions to the dime and had no issues at all after cleaning, not even a high idle.

 

I second that. The instructions say don't disconnect the battery or the throttle body harnesses. Also, I didn't have the ACC on or the car turned to on, just leave it turned off. If you leave it all (battery and throttle body harnesses) hooked up with the car turned off, there should be no problem. Mine was very straightforward, no SES or wacky idle fun afterwords.

 

I have to take the hose that's attached to the filter box and the throttle completely off to do this right? Anyone with pics?

 

I don't know why we are getting different results, but is happening. I have cleaned my throttle body so many times without a problem.

Last week my friend wanted to clean his and I did it for him and now he is getting the SES light. I followed the same procedures I do on my car. I disconnected battery first and left the throttle body connected, I never spray directly on the throtle body, I spray a clean rag and then wipe.

I never had to do any ECU or relearning procedures on my car, but i had to do all those procedures on his car. The light would go out and a couple hours later it would come back on.

We read the code with the OBD, it was P0507. We reseted again and a couple hours later it would come back up. We re-check all the connections and the hoses for any leak everything looks good, but we still get the stupid SES light.

When he starts the car it goes up to 2K RPM, but then it goes back down to 850 and stays there, the car drives good is not sluggish, but it has the SES light. We both have 05G35Coupe, mine is 5AT his is 6MT. I am going to swap throttle body with mine to see if that fixes the problem.

 

Just undo the hose clamps at each end and it should come right out far enough to do your work. You can disconnect the Mass Airflow Sensor harness to give you some more room but do not disconnect the Throttle Body Harness or the battery!

Also, for the passenger side, I undid the bolt holding down the hose that runs across the front of the intake to give me some more room to move the throttle body around. On the driver's side, I loosened one of the quick clamps holding the hose in place underneath the little box that is attached to the intake to give me the extra room to clean the throttle body. No pics though, sorry.

 

It is a mistery to me as well. I had that Problem and needed to do all the relearn crap a few times to get it back to normal.

Like someone said, maybe it's the free flowing air that it's not used to and maybe thats why it requires the volume air learn. If ur throttle body is not that dirty maybe this is why it doesn't require the relearn. Idk, just saying.

 

doing this tomorrow, will post up pics! if this creates an idle problem I will just take the car into the dealer lol warranty ftw